探寻完美的人类饮食（2012）

水果 全麦食品
fruits, whole grains,
脱脂或只含1%脂肪的乳制品
and fat-free or 1% dairy products
还要少吃那些高饱和脂肪
and also to eat less of the foods that are high in
高钠以及加糖的食物
saturated fats, sodium, and added sugars.
新的食谱在一些实际建议上
Substantial changes to the actual recommendations
并没有什么太大的改变
made by the new food plate are few,
本质上还和原来的金字塔保持一致
leaving it essentially the same as the old pyramid.
但公众可能忽略了一点
But what doesn't get much public attention
就是制定美国饮食指南
is the methodology
所采用的方法♥论♥
that has been used to create the u.S.Diet guidelines.
指南的制定基于一个特别选定的评审小组
The guidelines are based on a report generated every five years
每5年一次所做的报告
by a specially selected review panel.
小组成员会通过对一些
The panel members decide
事实的表象分♥析♥来决定
what scientific evidence in testimony
哪些科学依据将被采纳
to include from all that is presented.
这些被采纳的科学依据
What the panel chooses
将成为下一个五年里
will then guide the nation's health policies
引导国民身心健康的准则
for at least the next five years.
很多年来
I mean, for years,
主流界一直自诩为专家学者
the mainstream has been telling us academicians,
其实就是一群
and those are the people
在政♥府♥面对疑难杂症而束手无策时
that the government always turns to,
必须对之言听计从的
all the usual suspects,
所谓的
when they want to have a conference
砖家
to decide how to do something.
政♥府♥相关部门盲从于所谓的主流
They go after the mainstream,
其实从营养学角度出发
and the mainstream has been wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong,
主流界在过去的二三十年里一直大错特错
nutritionally, over the past 20 or 30 years.
于是政♥府♥从这些砖家那得到了
And so they get the advice from people that
错误的建议
give them incorrect advice,
再把这些建议向公众推行
and they act on it,
我们便都深受其害
and then we all suffer from it.
从一开始
From the start,
我们的饮食推荐
our dietary recommendations
就过多的受制于政♥治♥主张
have been based as much on politics
忽视了科学理念
as on science.
第一款饮食健康目标的设定
The first set of dietary goals
没有科学家和营养学家的参与
were written by political staffers,
竟然是个一群政客写的
not by scientists or nutritionists.
他们针对
They were based then,
第一款目标的设定
that first set,
竟然是基于一套尚未考证的理论体系
on the as-yet unproven theory
例如"减少脂肪摄取就能降低心脏病
that reducing dietary fat would reduce heart disease,
糖尿病和肥胖症的发病率"
diabetes, and obesity.
这些专家建议人们多食用低脂 低钠
They directed americans to consume less fat, less sodium,
低饱和脂肪 以及高碳水化合物的食物
less saturated fat, more carbohydrate,
这些建议
and these recommendations
在过去的三十年里经久不衰
have remained remarkably consistent for 30 years.
他们大言不惭 竟然还破天荒的
They come right out and they actually say vegetarian
对素食者大加赞扬
for kind of the first time.
甚至还鼓吹多吃谷类 豆类食品
It's even more grain, more legume-based,
少吃含动物蛋白质食品
a de-emphasis in animal-based proteins,
这些多我来说简直愚蠢透顶
which, for me, is absolute madness
势必让饮食和健康两者背道而驰
and is definitely driving the train in the wrong direction.
而且更成问题的是
And it's further problematic that
他们提到植物蛋白质和谷类时
there's no distinction made
没有做任何关于特质的区别
when they say plant-based proteins or grains.
一款卡夫低脂饼干或与之类似的
A snackwell or a similar,
例如 将高精练的高果糖含量的原料
like, highly refined, high-fructose containing item
和燕麦碎粒或者珍珠麦粒
is lumped in right along with
一并混在碗里
a bowl of steel-cut oats or pearled barley.
很少有人吃这类食物
Few people are eating those types of foods, though,
连我自己也很少吃
and even for me, those are not optimum foods.
其实营养全在这里
Those are marginal for the most part,
这话听着好像我这人很疯狂
which makes me sound like a crazy person,
但我们再来看下
but let's take that, then,
如果继续精炼一下
further steps of refinement
把燕麦碎粒
and take that steel-cut oat
加工成即溶麦粒
and make it instant oats,
我们知道相对于低精炼的食物
which we know that the glycemic
这种高度加工精炼
and insulin-generating effects of that type of food
会生成更多的
are so much more powerful
血糖和胰岛素
than the less processed forms.
这多少有点让人闹心
It's somewhat disheartening.
我曾经去过阿肯色州的一家农村合作社
I went to a farmer's co-op in Arkansas once and went in there
进去以后就开始看牲畜饲料袋上的标签
and started looking at the labels on the feed bags.
这时一个人走了过来
And this guy comes over,
问我是否需要帮助
and he asks me if he could help me
我告诉他自己是干什么的
and I told him kind of what I was doing
当时正在写一本有关营养学方面的书
and that I was writing a book on nutrition,
想了解下他们如何把牲口养肥
and I wanted to see how you fattened up animals.
他听了以后说
And he said, "Well, you know,
负责饲料喂养的人在楼上呢
the guy that does this is upstairs.
我带你上去好了
Let me take you up,
你可以和他聊聊
and he can talk to you."
然后我们就上楼了
So we go up,
见面后那个人拿出一本书
and the guy pulls out his book -
《牲畜饲养手册》
his manual of animal feeding.
我临时给冠的名
I think it was called -
他低头看了一会儿然后说
he looks down there and he says,
我们的计算公式就是这么来的
"Yeah, this is where we come up with our formulas to,
你懂的 用这些公式来养牛 喂猪
you know, to fatten cows, to fatten hogs,
干着干那
to do this, to do that."
最后他给我弄了几份复本
and so he made me some copies of these things,
我就带回家了
and so I took them home
我用营养学专用计算机运算了这些公式
and I ran them through my nutritional computer
就是为看看能算出点什么
just to see how it came out.
结果结论得出的食物分配百分比
And it came out almost to the percent
和美国饮食指南的食物金字塔如出一辙
exactly what the u.S.D.A. Food pyramid is.
原来农民兄弟竟然直接照着食物金字塔
So farmers basically use the u.S.D.A.Food pyramid
来饲养他们的牲畜
to fatten their animals.
于是我给它取了个新名字 "金饲塔"
And so I refer to it as the feed lot pyramid.
随着前期准备的完成
Now with initial preparations complete,
是时候从人类进化的起点开始
it's time to start at the beginning of human evolution
探究它到底向哪个方向发展
to see where it leads us.
我来到位于柯林斯堡的科罗拉多大学
I traveled to the university of Colorado in Fort Collins
会见了美国进化营养学首屈一指的专家
to meet with America's leading expert in evolutionary nutrition.
洛伦·柯丹教授
Professor Loren Cordain.
自然选择带来的进化演变是
The evolution by natural selection is the most powerful idea
一切生物医药学的知识来源
in all of medicine and biology.
这一理论直到十年前
It's only been within the last decade,
最多十五年前
maybe 15 years,
才被科学界和营养学界
that the scientific and nutritional communities
所逐渐认识到 事实上
have become aware that, indeed,
正是进化演变的过程
our nutritional requirements
使我们对营养的要求逐渐成形
are shaped by our evolution.
大约在1987年
Probably about 1987,
我有幸拜读了来自埃默里大学
I read the classic paper by Dr. Boyd eaton
波义德·伊顿教授的文章
from Emory university called
《旧石器时代的营养学》
"Paleolithic nutrition"
发表在《新英格兰医学杂♥志♥》
That was published in the New England Journal of Medicine.
我觉得那可能是我一生中
And I thought that was about
听过的最有见解的想法
the best idea I'd ever heard of in my life.
在多少受点强迫症的驱使下
And being somewhat of a obsessive personality,
我决定进一步了解这篇文章
I decided to follow up on this.
我花了点时间通读了全文
And after I read the article, I went out,
发现文章里大概有六十到七十条参考文献
and there were 60 or 70 references to the article.
我费尽心思找到了其中的每一篇
I went out and got every one of those,
然后又逐篇阅读
and I read every one of those.
如果你是个科学家
And if you're a scientist,