地球壮观河流之旅 Ⅱ（2022）

每天，保罗·乔西都会爬上村子上方的悬崖
Every day, Paul Josie climbs the bluffs above the village
扫视冰冻的河流，看着等着
to scan the frozen river, watching and waiting.
当我站在河边，见证眼前的变化
As I stand and witness the changes in front of me from the river
你听到天空中的大雁，
and you hear the geese in the sky,
还有从山上流下来的水
and the water trickling down the mountain
你能感觉到脸上的和煦空气，
and you can feel the warm air on your face,
它给我一种感觉，春天即将来临
it gives me a sense that spring will be upon us.
有一个迹象表明春天临近了
There's one sign above all that means spring is close.
豪猪河驯鹿群的到来
The arrival of the Porcupine caribou herd.
超过20万只动物在移♥动♥
Over 200,000 animals on the move.
1500英里的迁徙，
A 1,500-mile migration,
地球上队伍最长的陆地哺乳动物
the longest by any land mammal on the planet...
带它们去阿♥拉♥斯加北极海岸的产犊场
..taking them to their calving grounds on Alaska's Arctic coast.
早早来到仍然冰冻的豪猪河
Early arrivals at the still-frozen Porcupine River,
主要是怀孕的驯鹿，在冰上行走
mainly pregnant cows, walk across the ice.
但气温正在迅速上升
But temperatures are rising rapidly.
融化的冰逐渐远离河岸
Melting ice eases away from the banks
然后开始碎裂
and starts to break up.
随着更多驯鹿的到来
As more caribou arrive...
他们面临着危险的、不断变化的不稳定冰块
..they face a dangerous, shifting patchwork of unstable ice
还有开阔的水域
and open water.
没有办法通过
There's no way through.
他们被迫等待越来越多的冰块
They are forced to wait as a growing mass of ice
向古克劳涌去
surges downstream towards Old Crow.
冰块相互挤压，堵塞了河流
Slabs of ice jam against one another, blocking the river.
一些驯鹿被孤立了，
Some caribou get caught out,
被困在冰层破裂之中
marooned as the ice breaks up around them.
幸运的驯鹿被带回到岸边，
The lucky ones are carried back to shore,
再往下游数英里
miles further downstream.
古克劳的周围仍在聚集冰块
Ice continues to build around Old Crow
直到压力无法控制
until the pressure can no longer be contained.
几天之内，几英里长的河冰就会被冲过去，
It takes just a few days for many miles of river-ice to stream past,
前往育空河
heading for the Yukon.
从我年轻的时候起，冰河开始破碎
Ever since I was young, the break-up of the river
对我的社区来说，这一直是一段激动人心的时光
has always been an exciting time for my community.
看着冰块破碎，就是看着冬天被冲走
Watching the break-up is literally watching winter wash away.
剩余的驯鹿现在在冰里冒险
The remaining caribou now take their chances with the ice.
看着豪猪河，驯鹿游过河流，
Watching the Porcupine caribou swim across the river,
在冰块中游♥行♥
navigating through ice chunks...
你会担忧这种动物，
..you get a sense of worry for this animal,
当你希望它们成功时，你就是希望它们渡过河
as you want them to succeed, you want them to cross
你希望它们安全
and you want them to be safe.
随着冰向下游移♥动♥，
As the ice moves off downstream,
掉队的也渡过了这条河
the stragglers make their way across the river...
…追赶其他驯鹿
..playing catch-up with the rest of the herd.
冬天终于走了
Winter is finally letting go.
既然这里的冰河已经融化，
Now that the river has broken up,
事实上，它只是在等待更多的冰融化，
it's actually just waiting for more ice to clear,
等着更多安全的行程
waiting for it to be a little safer to travel.
然后我可以把我的船放进去
And then I can put my boat in
重新开始在我们的公路上旅行
and start travelling on our highway again.
经过数月的隔离，
After months of isolation,
古克劳的居民现在可以重新连接育空河
the inhabitants of Old Crow can now reconnect with the Yukon.
当这条冰冻的大河开始调转，背对着北极，
As the great frozen river turns its back on the Arctic,
它开始活跃起来
it starts to come alive.
现在沐浴在几乎连续的夏天日光中，
Now bathed in near-continuous summer daylight,
气温继续上升
temperatures continue to rise.
导致育空河冬季停顿的冰雪
The snow and ice that brought the Yukon to a winter standstill
现在，让河水又恢复了活力
now re-energises the river.
每条溪流和支流都加进了自己涌动的融水，
With every stream and tributary adding its own pulse of meltwater,
育空河的流量继续增长
the Yukon's power steadily grows.
洪水带来了和水一样重要的东西
With the flood comes something just as important as the water.
来自遥远冰川的越来越多的岩屑
An ever-growing cargo of rock dust from distant glaciers...
…还有侵蚀山谷的泥土
..and mud from eroded valleys.
这场融雪大洪水
This meltwater flood
把育空河变成了一个强大而坚韧的泥水巨人
turns the Yukon into a formidable and relentless mud-filled giant.
在短暂的夏天，
Over the short summer,
这条河将转移8000多万吨♥泥沙
the river will shift more than 80 million tonnes of sediment.
大部分都被带到了海里
Most of it carried all the way to the ocean.
这种独特的矿物特征
This unique mineral signature
现在帮助引导鲑鱼返回育空河
now helps guide waves of salmon back to the Yukon.
狗鲑、银大马哈鱼、粉色鲑鱼和王鲑鱼等等
Runs of chum, coho, pink and king salmon
逆流而上数百英里
battle their way hundreds of miles upstream
在河流的源头产卵
to spawn in the river's headwaters.
几千年来，
For thousands of years,
本土第一民族人们捕猎这些鱼
the indigenous First Nation peoples harvested the fish.
夏季的收获让他们度过了冬天
A summer bounty that fed them through the winter.
这仍然是家庭的传统
It's still a tradition for families
前往偏远的河边鱼营捕捉和制♥作♥鲑鱼
to head to remote riverside fish camps to catch and prepare salmon.
Faith Peters和Kathleen Peters Zuray姐妹
Sisters Faith Peters and Kathleen Peters-Zuray
来自阿萨巴斯卡第一民族
from the Athabaskan First Nation
正在前往Rampart Rapids的营地
are heading to their camp at Rampart Rapids.
我是河家族的中年人
I'm middle of the river clan
我们一辈子都靠大马哈鱼生存
and we've been surviving on king salmon all our life.
我们来鱼营已经35年了
We've been coming to fish camp here for, like, 35 years.
这些年来，
Over those years,
姐妹俩目睹了沿河发生的巨变
the sisters have witnessed dramatic changes along the river.
最近，育空河的许多鲑鱼数量急剧下降
Recently, the Yukon's many salmon runs have gone into steep decline...
气候变化和太平洋过度捕捞的受害者
..victims of a shifting climate and over-fishing in the Pacific.
现在对捕获进行了严格限制
Strict limits are now placed on catches
如果返回的鲑鱼数量非常少，
and if numbers of returning salmon are very low,
禁止捕鱼
no fishing is allowed.
家庭等待今年夏天的决定，
The family wait for this summer's decision,
通过当地Mukluk电台转播
relayed via the local Mukluk radio station.
电台：季前预测没有达到临界值
RADIO: The pre-season projection does not meet the threshold
需要30万条鱼才能捕捞维持生计
of 300,000 fish needed to allow subsistence fishing.
因此，维持生计的鲑鱼捕捞将于秋季开始时关闭
Therefore, subsistence salmon fishing will be closed to begin the fall season.
自给自足的渔民应该为持续关闭做好准备
Subsistence fishermen should prepare for continued closures.
尽管有这个坏消息，姐妹俩还是下定决心
Despite this bad news, the sisters are determined
以保持他们小时候学习的传统刀法
to keep up the traditional knife skills they learnt as children.
我们很难不去鱼营切鱼，
It's hard for us to not to come to fish camp and to cut fish,
因为这是我们一生都在做的事
cos this is what we've been doing all our life.
没有新鲜的鱼可切，
With no fresh fish to cut,
Kathleen从营地冰箱里取回了去年剩下的鱼
Kathleen retrieves what's left of last year's catch from the camp freezer.
哦，给你
Ooh, there you go.
我们准备好了
We're ready.
这是去年冰箱里的一条鲑鱼，
This is one of salmon that was in the freezer from last year,
所以它有点软，但仍然很漂亮
so it's a little soft, but it's still beautiful.
这甚至不是我们的工作，这是一个快乐的假期
It's not even a job for us to do this. It's a happy vacation.
这些鱼片在微风中晾干
The strips are hung in the breeze to dry.
我们用冷冻鱼真是太神奇了
It's amazing that we're using frozen fish...
结果很好
..and it's turning out pretty good.
味道会像金子一样
It's going to taste like gold.
在阳光下晒了一天后，
After a day in the sun,
富油的鱼片被移入烟熏房♥
the oil-rich strips are moved into the smokehouse.
烟有助于保护鱼
The smoke helps preserve the fish
通过增添一种延缓变质的涂层
by creating a coating that slows decomposition.
在过去的几年里，
In past years,
这间烟熏房♥里满是鲑鱼片
this smokehouse would be full to the rafters with salmon.
这么少的鱼片令人悲伤地提醒我们，事情已经变得多么糟糕
These few strips are a sad reminder of how bad things have become.
所以没有夏天的狗鲑，没有王三文鱼，也没有秋天的鲑鱼
So there was no summer chum, no king and no fall chum.
这是前所未有的
That is unprecedented.
我们从没见过
We've never seen that.
这让我很难过，这真的让我伤心，因为
It makes me sad. It really makes me sad, cos...
吃一顿没有大马哈鱼的晚餐，
..for us to have a dinner without king salmon,
这几乎像是在挨饿
it's almost like starving.
我真的没想到，
It hasn't really hit me, really,
但我们正在失去我们文化的一部分
but we're losing a part of our culture.
这是毁灭性的
It's devastating.
俩姐妹只能希望
The sisters can only hope