地球壮观河流之旅 Ⅱ（2022）

冬天你只有六个小时的白天，对吗？
You're only going to have six hours of daylight in the winter, right?
在最深的冬天
In the deepest winter.
当天黑的时候，你只能看到头灯的光束
And when it's dark you only see your head lamp beam.
这离麻烦很近
That's not very far to spot trouble.
你完全依赖狗
You are completely relying on the dogs
狗完全依赖你
and they are completely relying on you.
它们是如此奇妙的生物
And they're such wonderful creatures.
雪橇狗是这个星球上我最喜欢的动物
They're my favourite creatures on this planet, the sled dogs.
肯定
Definitely.
即使在今天，冰面上坐雪橇的人和狗的生活
Even today, life for a musher and dog team out on the ice
与那些开始拓荒者的日子差不多
is much the same as in those pioneering days.
一些干草给狗作睡垫，一些生火融雪来煮咖啡
Some straw for the dogs and a fire to melt snow for coffee
可以让生活更舒适一点
can make life a little more comfortable.
这很苦，零下25度
It's bitter, 25 below.
哦
Ooph.
他们是好狗
They're good dogs.
一旦狗看到干草，通常，这些伙计已经露营了很多次，
Once they see the straw, usually, these guys have camped a lot,
所以狗知道，干草意味着我们要待一段时间
so they know straw means we're staying awhile.
尽管寒冷，
Despite the cold,
结冰的河流是穿过这些北方森林的生命线
the frozen river is a lifeline through these northern forests.
即使在隆冬深处，猞猁也在四处游荡
Even in deep midwinter, lynx are on the prowl.
利用风刮的冰河面
Using the windswept ice river
猞猁可以避免深一脚浅一脚的耗费能量
means they can avoid deep, energy-sapping drifts.
毛茸茸的大爪子就像雪靴一样
Their huge furry paws act as snowshoes...
…帮助他们在松软的雪地上轻松来回
..helping them move effortlessly across soft snow.
猞猁是顶级捕食者
Lynx are top predators...
他们不喜欢半吨♥重的驼鹿
..but a half-ton moose is way out of their league.
他们看上的东西要小得多
They have something much smaller in their sights.
北美雪靴野兔可以占到他们冬季饮食的90%
Snowshoe hares can make up to 90% of their winter diet.
但作为一名专业猎手也会有自己的问题
But being a specialist hunter brings its own problems.
兔子的数量会急剧变化
Hare numbers rise and fall dramatically
正常的10年一个周期
in regular 10-year cycles.
在野兔稀少的年份，许多猞猁会挨饿
In years with few hares, many lynx starve.
即使在好年头，
Even in good years,
追捕这种难以捉摸的猎物，意味着每天要长途跋涉
pursuing such elusive prey means covering many miles a day.
当他们在这些方便的公路上漫步时，
As they wander these well-travelled highways,
猞猁标出他们的领地
lynx mark out their territories...
撒尿
..with a squirt here...
撒尿
..and a squirt there...
…留下气味，帮助他们在一段冰冻的河流上站稳脚跟
..leaving scent to help stake their claim to a stretch of frozen river
同时广而告之寻找伴侣
and to advertise for a mate.
这些化学路标是这些孤独者唯一的出路
These chemical signposts are the only way these loners
能在这样偏远的地区保持联络
can keep in touch in such remote country.
这真的是北美的野生前沿领域
And this really is North America's wild frontier.
育空地区没有大城市，道路也很少
Along the Yukon, there are no big cities and few roads.
只有四座桥横跨其2000英里的路线
Only four bridges span its 2,000-mile course.
整个育空盆地只有12.5万人
Just 125,000 people live in the entire Yukon Basin.
靠近阿♥拉♥斯加-加拿大边境，安克雷奇以东400英里，
Close to the Alaska-Canada border, 400 miles east of Anchorage,
是为数不多的河边城镇之一，道森市
is one of the few riverside towns - Dawson City...
这里，育空河与最著名的支流相连
..where the Yukon is joined by its most famous tributary...
克朗代克河
..the Klondike River.
道森几乎一夜之间就出现了
Dawson sprang up almost overnight
1♥8♥9♥6年，在这里发现黄金之后，
after gold was discovered here in 1♥8♥9♥6.
第二年，
By the following year,
黄金热吸引了3万名淘金人
gold fever had lured 30,000 fortune hunters
到达这遥远的河岸
to this remote river bank.
少数幸运儿发了财
A lucky few struck it rich.
大多数人空手而归，
Most left empty-handed,
被育空地区的极度困苦打败
defeated by the Yukon's crushing hardships.
短短几年，黄金就逐渐消失了
In just a few years, the gold petered out
这股热潮几乎和它开始时一样快就结束了
and the rush was over almost as quickly as it started.
但道森留了下来，
But Dawson lived on,
荒野之海中的灯塔
a beacon of light in a sea of wilderness.
那些荒野时代最奇特的回忆
One of the strangest reminders of those wild times
可以在市中心的酒店大厅找到一些，
can be found in the Downtown Hotel saloon,
那里保存着育空探矿者冻伤的脚趾
where the preserved frostbitten toe of a Yukon prospector
已成为独特鸡尾酒的关键成分
has become the key ingredient in a unique cocktail.
接受酸脚趾鸡尾酒挑战，已经成为一种仪式
Taking the Sourtoe challenge has become a rite of passage
对于今天参观道森的人
for anyone who visits Dawson today.
如果你敢，我们可以为你服务
And if you dare, we can serve the toe.
你准备好了吗？ 我想是的
Are you ready? I guess so.
你最好是，因为我们来了
You'd better be, cos here we go.
你可以喝得快，也可以喝得慢，
You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow,
但你的嘴唇必须接触，这个粗糙的脚趾
but your lips must touch this gnarly toe.
就你的嘴唇
Just your lips.
不是牙齿，不是舌头，不是扁桃体
No teeth, no tongue, no tonsils.
祝你健康，干杯！
Slainte.
我应该这么做吗？哦
Should I just do it? Oh.
你明白了
You got it.
做得很好
That was well done.
做得很好
That was well done.
完美
Perfect.
他们笑了
THEY LAUGH
就好像
Just when it seems the cold
寒冷永远不会放开对育空地区的管控时
will never release its grip on the Yukon...
天空中有一丝迹象，表明改变即将来临
..there's a sign in the heavens that change is coming.
北极光
The Aurora Borealis.
北极的光
The Northern Lights.
这些大气层的光经常达到峰值
These atmospheric light shows often reach their peak
就像地球的轨道一样
just as the Earth's orbit
使北半球旋转原来的背向太阳
swings the northern hemisphere back towards the sun.
这标志着一个转变的时刻，
It marks a moment of transformation,
当新能量沿着育空河脉动时
as new energy pulses along the Yukon.
上升的温度和长♥期♥休眠的洋流的渐起
Rising temperatures and the stirrings of long-dormant currents
打开冰冻河流防御的第一个缺口
open the first breaches in the frozen river's defences...
…正好赶上迎接成千上万喧闹的候鸟来到育空河
..just in time to greet thousands of noisy migrants to the Yukon.
号♥手天鹅从加拿大南部飞行了1000多英里，
Trumpeter swans have flown over 1,000 miles from southern Canada,
在前往更北的繁殖地途中
en route to their breeding grounds further north.
沼泽湖给了这些大鸟休养生息的机会，
Marsh Lake gives these huge birds a chance to rest and refuel,
但前提是他们的时机恰到好处
but only if their timing is spot on.
如果他们在解冻前到达，
If they arrive before the thaw,
冰面阻止了他们吃到湖底生长的莎草
ice stops them feeding on the sedges that grow on the lakebed.
来得太晚了，
Arrive too late,
春天的洪水又使他们够不着这些植物
and spring floods put these plants beyond reach.
他们恰逢其时，
They've got it just about right,
尽管四月寒冷的夜晚仍然笼罩在开阔的水面上，
although the cold April nights still glaze over the open water,
所以早起的鸟必须帮助破开冰块
so the early risers must help break the ice.
即使是这些长颈鸟，
Even for these long-necked birds,
也要延伸到一米深的地方，才能吃到植被。
it's a stretch to gather the vegetation a metre down.
自己够不着植物的，
Unable to reach the plants for themselves,
像野鸭这样的小候鸟，会靠近天鹅，
smaller migrants like wigeon stick close to the swans,
吃些残羹冷炙
scooping up any leftovers.
在短暂停留后，是时候继续前行了，
After a short stay, it's time to move on,
追逐着春天融化的冰雪
chasing the spring thaw as it moves north.
育空河从广阔的边远地区汇集了大量的水源
The Yukon gathers its waters from across a vast backcountry...
而且可能还需要几个星期，
..and it may take many more weeks
在解冻到达北极支流之前
before the thaw reaches its Arctic tributaries.
即使在5月，这些仍然是冰冻的固状体
Even in May, these are still frozen solid.
河流就像豪猪河
Rivers like the Porcupine.
500英里长，向北穿过北极圈，
500 miles long, its course takes it north across the Arctic Circle,
然后转向南方，进入育空河
then back south to join the Yukon.
在最北端
At its most northern point
是古克劳的第一民族Vuntut Gwitchin
is the First Nation Vuntut Gwitchin village of Old Crow.
在这里，生活围绕着自给自足的捕鱼和狩猎
Here, life revolves around subsistence fishing and hunting.
古克劳的冬天是严酷的，也是寒冷的
Winter in Old Crow can be harsh, it can be cold.
在北极圈上空，
Being above the Arctic Circle,
我们经历了早冬和晚春
we experience earlier winters and later springs.
豪猪河是最后一条
The Porcupine River is the last,
最后破冰的大河
one of the last large rivers to break up
这就是我们现在所处的地方
and that's where we're at right now.