是要让他美观
was to make this thing that was pleasing to look at.
丑陋之中带有美感
You know, there's beauty in ugliness.
他的妆容必须表现出 他是由碎片拼成的
The makeup needs to tell you that he's made of pieces.
为什么他由碎片拼成?
Why is he made of pieces? That's one thing I wanted to know,
我想要知道这一点
因为如果你是维克多·弗兰肯斯坦
because, really, if you are Victor Frankenstein,
你去墓地 找到身体、手、手臂
you go to a cemetery, you grab a body, you grab a hand, you grab an arm.
只需要三块就做成了
That's it. It's made of three pieces.
但如果你用的是战场上的碎尸
But if they give you the pieces of a battlefield,
就能解释为什么他像拼图一样 由碎片拼成
then that explains why he's putting it together like a jigsaw puzzle.
所以他的妆容必须体现这一点 但也要美观
So the makeup needed to reflect that,
but have a beauty.
麦克和我是《科学怪人》的书迷
Mike and I are Frankenstein heads.
我有一个房♥间 里面收藏 《科学怪人》的书和周边产品
I have a whole room dedicated to Frankenstein.
迈克用我的收藏品为电影制♥作♥道具 我们都是狂热粉丝
Mike builds the things that are in my room for Frankenstein,
and we are groupies.
麦克和吉列尔莫一样 热爱《科学怪人》
Michael loves Frankenstein as much as Guillermo.
当他第一次在银幕上看到 鲍里斯·卡洛夫 他的人生由此改变
When he saw Boris Karloff on screen for the first time, it changed his life.
我得搞明白吉列尔莫想要什么
I had to figure out what Guillermo wanted.
我可以进一步发展他的想法
You know, I can help push his ideas further,
但重点是他想要什么 想要电影表达什么
but it has to be about what he wants and what his movie is about.
我的理解是
And what I got was,
人们有时会在美好的事物中看到怪物
people see monsters in beautiful things sometimes,
我们不必把他做成那种丑陋的怪物
and we didn't have to do this ogre of a creature.
我们不想要那些夸张的伤口和缝线
We didn't want all these garish wounds and stitching.
所以我说 “好 这是维克多的第一次尝试”
So I said, "Well, okay. This is Victor's first go at this."
裁缝的第一个作品通常并不完美
So, you know, a dressmaker can't make the perfect dress the first time.
上面有很多缝缝补补的地方
There's a lot more stitches and patching going on.
第二个就好多了 但他的第一个作品 对我来说...
The second one would be a lot better. But his first one, to me--
我想要能解释这些伤疤
I thought, "Okay. You've got to make sense of these scars."
也许那些是切入口 也许是他动过肌肉的地方
"So maybe they're access points, maybe they're points he went in,
然后他觉得不对劲
"changed the muscle and then figured, 'That's not right.'"
这样不行 我要改进 然后再次工作
"It's not working. I can improve that," then went back in again.
维克多·弗兰肯斯坦不是屠夫 他想做出完美的人
Victor Frankenstein is not a butcher. He's trying to make the perfect man.
说到底 他是从死亡中被带回来的人
At the end of the day, this is a man brought back from the dead,
这不代表他不能好看
but it doesn't mean that he can't look beautiful.
所以我用了不用色彩、形态和形状
So I just played around with colors and forms and shapes
让演员的身体看上去充满力量
that would make the actor's body feel powerful.
维克多!
Victor!
然后在此基础上不断改进
And developed it further and further from there.
作为一部分...
Yeah. Something. He was...
To be a part of... To be a part of...
所以我给雅各布打电♥话♥ 我们马上就开始讨论“怪物”
So, I called Jacob,
and immediately, we started talking about the monster.
一开始他就说 “你必须把这个世界抛在身后”
When we started, he just said, "You have to leave the world behind."
“在情感上要封闭听觉和嗅觉
"Emotionally, you have to close your ears off
改变看待事物的方式
and close your nostrils off and change the way that you see things
才能进入这种原初的存在状态”
to be able to shift into this kind of original being."
我说原始状态是很难表现的
I said the hard thing to do is the zero.
我说:“你可以研究你的狗”
I said, "If you want to study anyone, study your dog."
你的狗会在那里
You know, your dog can be there.
需要的时候狗会攻击...
If it needs to attack something, the dog attacks...
然后坐在你旁边一整天
...and then sit by you like he's been there all day.
你是我的朋友
You are my friend.
我学习了舞踏 这是一种让尸体复活的舞蹈
I studied butoh,
which is sort of like the dance of re-animating a corpse,
这对我理解如何分离身体的不同部位
and that was really helpful in terms of isolating different parts of your body
以及以全新的方式思考动作 非常有帮助
and thinking about movement in a different way.
雅各布身材比例非常好
Jacob is a really well-proportioned man,
非常理想 我可以在他的画面里看到
so it was ideal, and I could see that in his frame.
但同时他的身体和动作中也带着一种
But also, he had an almost panther-like grace
近似黑豹般的优雅
in his body and his movements.
我觉得他非常有天赋
I think he was born to do this.
开拍
And action.
麦克和我同意尽量展现雅各布的身体
Mike and I agreed on using as much of the body of Jacob as we could,
因为那让他的表演 更具表现力 也更真实
because that gives him more expressiveness and more reality.
这是第一次
This is the very first time
我们在洛杉矶给雅各布化妆
we applied the makeup to Jacob back in Los Angeles.
这是我们第一次给他化妆
It was the first application we ever did on him,
第二次就是在片场的第一天
and then the next application was the first day on set.
这是一个团队协作的过程
It's a tag-team effort.
我们一群人一起上阵围着雅各布工作
There's a bunch of us, and we all swarm Jacob at once.
先从头部开始 然后慢慢往下 直到他全身都被假体覆盖
First we start on his head,
then we slowly move down and he's encased in prosthetics.
(假体化妆主管 梅根·梅尼)
这非常耗时 我要坐在化妆室里
It was totally consuming
because I would sit in the makeup chair for ten hours,
长达十个小时 我几乎失去了人类的感觉
and sort of lose my humanity,
皮肤被清理干净 脸上覆盖上一层材料
and your skin gets washed out and covered with something,
结构也随之改变 然后再穿上服装
and your face and the structure changes,
and then you put the costume on,
整个过程就像沉浸式体验
and it's an immersive experience.
全身由42块组成
The full body is actually 42 pieces.
通常像化这种妆 你可以在粘贴假体时有一些重叠
Normally, with a makeup like this, you can overlap in appliance.
这样就会留有一点误差空间
So you've got a little room for error.
但因为我沿着实际的切口和缝线 把妆分成了几个部分
But since I broke the makeup up along the actual cuts and stitches,
就像弗兰肯斯坦 把他像拼图一样组装起来
where Frankenstein put him together like a jigsaw puzzle,
所以需要非常精确的工序 上妆时间更长
which is very exacting, it takes a little longer to apply,
但看起来更像是人造的痕迹
but much more manmade-looking.
吉列尔莫要我们不要设计纯黑的头发
Guillermo wanted us to stay away from jet-black hair,
所以我们用了更偏棕色的层次感设计 色彩更加丰富和深沉
so we have more of a brown, layered, multi-colored, darker version.
我记得他提出 加上一绺被电击卷曲的头发
And I believe it was his idea to have the one shock lock,
因为这样看起来很酷
'cause obviously it's cool,
但也能体现出他显然是 由不同人的部分组成的
but also it shows that he's distinctly made up of different people.
我所要做的是成为他赋予生命的 那块完美而静止的画布
All I needed to be was
the sort of perfect still canvas for him to paint life onto.
所以我尽量保持镇定 和尊重他的创作过程
So I just wanted to be as calm
and as respectful of his process as I could be,
因为他真的是我所遇到过的
because he's genuinely one of the finest artists
最出色的艺术家之一
I've ever encountered.
我觉得最神奇的是原著中的描写 被真正赋予了生命
I think what's amazing is that the descriptions in the book come to life,
而那并不是我们平常所熟知的形象
and it's not the one that we normally associate.
(奥斯卡饰维克多·弗兰肯斯坦)
如果你能往这边上来一点就好了
If you can-- If you can go up here, it would be nice.
这让我很震惊 因为我原本对“怪物”的印象
I was taken aback by it because I had this idea of what The Creature is like
来自我看过的其他《科学怪人》版本
in other iterations of Frankenstein that I've seen.
但我真正喜欢并欣赏的是
But what I really loved and appreciated
这一版的形象在某种程度上有所收敛
is kind of how it's scaled back in a way a little bit.
其中蕴含着一种纯粹感
There's a purity to it.
雅各布的演绎让这个角色
The way Jacob embodies him,
极为优雅 而随着剧情的发展
there's so much grace,
and what continues to happen throughout the story
他的身体逐渐变得更强壮
affects the way his body becomes stronger and more defensive,
更具防御性 最后更有攻击性
and then eventually into more offensive.
Stay back!
所以我们确实制♥作♥了一些 雅各布饰演的“怪物”的复♥制♥模型
So we did make some replicas of Jacob as The Creature.
其中一个是解剖版本
One was a dissection body.
可以看到各个部位被组装在一起
So where we see these pieces being put together,
比如膝盖被装进新的关节 并用螺丝固定
where, you know, the knee will go into a new knee socket that gets screwed in.
脑部的一部分被取出 可以直接看到头部内部结构
The section of the brain comes out so you can see inside the head.
一个新的心脏 还能看到维克多 进行手术的部分
You know, a new heart, and see where Victor is operating
组装这个拼凑起来的生物
and putting this piecemeal creature together.
另一个是
The other one we have is
在那场“怪物”被吊起在 Y形架上的诞生戏中
when The Creature's raised up on the Y-frame for his birthing scene,
我们当然不可能让演员 保持那个姿势一整天
obviously, we couldn't leave an actor stood up there all day in this pose,
所以我们为那一幕制♥作♥了一个身高 1米95的全身化妆的雅各布复♥制♥模型
so we made a full six-foot-five replica of Jacob in the makeup for that scene.
作为一部《科学怪人》电影
Being a Frankenstein movie,
其中有大量的身体部位和尸体
there's a lot of body parts, there's a lot of corpses.
我希望手术场面能展现出 解剖学上真实的切割感
I wanted to show the surgery with anatomically correct butchery.
因为归根结底 折断骨头再重新黏合
Because, ultimately, to break a bone and reglue it
或连接韧带和肌腱 都是极其混乱的过程
or to connect ligaments and tendons is an incredibly messy business.
所以片场真的有 几十个身体和身体部位
So we have literally dozens of bodies
and body parts on that set.
我当时想 我们就随意摆上几具
And I thought, we'll just throw a few out there,
但是不行 吉列尔莫都想要
but no, no, Guillermo wanted them all.
- 再一点... - 好
A little more out here.
- Yeah. - Yeah.
大多数导演的办公室 都设在制♥作♥部门和财务部门旁边
Most directors put their office next to production and accounting.
但我是个讨厌鬼
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