弗兰肯斯坦：解剖课（2025）

I didn't want you to see a pastel-colored period,
因为我希望维克多的造型 像米克·贾格尔一样
because I wanted Victor to be dressed like Mick Jagger.
我记得第一次看到凯特的设计图时
I remember first seeing Kate's drawings
with different ideas taken from pictures off the Internet,
里面融合了来源于网络图片的构想 那些奇特的混合体
kind of these strange amalgams, and seeing these incredible costumes.
最终变成了令人惊叹的服装
我试装时穿上这些衣服
And so you kind of come in and I put these things on and
看看整体感觉
see what they feel like
想要假装我很适应
and try to pretend a little bit that I belong.
这是最初的感觉 就是尝试
That's the first feeling. You know, just approaching it.
我们根据调研画出很多草图
As we gather research, many drawings are made.
我觉得维克多的草图有几百张
I think we've got hundreds of drawings of Victor.
某一天吉列尔莫偶然经过
And then one day Guillermo's walking casually past.
他说这就是他想要的维克多
He went, "Well, that's my Victor right there."
然后我们就得选那一个造型
And then we had to-- Went with that one,
逐渐发展成与奥斯卡的试装
and that developed into fittings with Oscar
最终做出他现在层次丰富的服装造型
and became the layered wardrobe that he has now.
最初构思角色时要做出以下考虑
One of the first things that happens with characters
is the initial questions.
“这个人有哪些元素?”
"What are the elements of this guy?"
“他有没有特定造型风格?”
"Is he trying to look a certain way?"
“他不是这样吗?他是在挑衅吗?”
"Is he not? Is he trying to provoke?"
“这种状态如何体现在故事发展中?
"How does that translate into how the story progresses
当他有了更多钱后会发生什么?”
and what happens when he has a little bit more money?"
“他要穿什么?”
What does he put on?"
试装是合作的开始
The costume fitting started to be a place to start collaborating
我们意识到是在共同创造这个角色
and realizing we're actually building this character together,
尤其是我们设计“怪物”的时候
especially when we got to the creation of The Creature,
不管他增加或减少要素
and the way he takes off pieces or adds pieces,
这能体现他什么样的内心世界?
and what is that saying about his inner life?
我获得了很多信息
I got so much information from that.
迈克为“怪物”制♥作♥了几款早期的模型 非常精美
Mike had done a couple of early maquettes for The Creature
which were so beautiful,
线条优雅 带着粉红与红色的色调
you know, with all those beautiful lines and that pinky-red running through it,
而这些设计也启发了我
and that starts informing me about how I can utilize those things
如何在服装中融入这些元素
within the clothes or costume.
我和凯特讨论了如何突出“怪物”特质
I talked with Kate to see what would emphasize this Creature,
他的修长、身高以及优雅
his length and his height and his elegance.
(“怪物”造型设计 麦克·希尔)
凯特是设计这种角色的大♥师♥
And Kate is a master at this type of character.
所以服装也体现出了“怪物”的外表
So the costume was reflecting The Creature's look as well.
一件简单的大衣 花了好几周研发
A simple coat has taken quite a few weeks of R&D.
我们的想法是 “怪物”在一处
So the idea was The Creature finds his coat
克里米亚战争士兵的旧墓地 发现了他的大衣
in an old burial ground of soldiers from the Crimean War.
于是我们觉得
So we thought it was a beautiful idea to...
在大衣上呈现骸骨印痕会非常合适
have the imprint of the skeletons on the coat,
于是我们设计了 类似脊椎等骨骼的纹理
so we created sort of spines and things.
这件大衣的演变经历了 许多阶段与转变
The evolution of this coat goes through a lot of stages and transitions,
包括他前往北极的旅程 以及造访纺织厂的情节
with the journey to the Arctic and his visit to the mill.
每次他去到不同的环境 服装质感就会随之改变
So every time he's in an environment,
the qualities of his garment change.
- 我们可以再多试试 - 好
- We can play with it a bit more. - Yeah. I would...
- 我希望只保留眼睛的部分 - 好的
- I would leave only the eyes. - Okay.
有意思的是 我们花了好几个月 进行概念设计
It's interesting, 'cause we did months and months of concept work,
而吉列尔莫在整个过程中 不断即兴发挥
and then Guillermo is improvising all the time through the process.
演员来了之后 你基本上得放手 看看效果如何
So, your actor comes and it's like you've almost got to let go and see what falls.
你的工作很大一部分就是随时反应
A lot of your job is sort of reacting to things,
去配合场景中在发生的一切
to support what's happening on set.
需要合作的地方非常多
There's huge collaboration in that.
更不用说米娅也参与了合作
And not to mention, Mia is part of that collaboration as well.
我们有非常多的试装
We had so many costume fittings.
这种工艺水平无与伦比
The level of craftsmanship is unparalleled.
我从没有过这样的体验
I've never experienced anything quite like it.
我总是很期待试装
I was always looking forward to my fitting
因为我总能获得更多信息
'cause I was always able to get a little bit more information
看看凯特对整个故事的见解
and to see how Kate was looking at the story as a whole and...
我和其他角色的关系 以及如何用裙子体现出来
and my relation to other characters and how the dress was a language for that.
这是关于伊丽莎白的环境
It's a question about Elizabeth's environment
她喜欢的书以及大自然
and the books that she loves and nature, and how do we incorporate that
我们怎么把这些融入她的服装 让其独一无二?
into her clothing to make it unique?
我们采用了传统服饰
We took traditional garments
如斗篷、披肩、披肩领
like a cape, shawl, pelerine of the period
呼应吉列尔莫喜欢运用的
that responded to sort of the beetle and moth imagery
甲虫和飞蛾的意象
that Guillermo likes to use,
将这些元素发展成 类似分形结构的身体图案
and we developed these into sort of fractal body patterns.
甲虫的图案非常大
When you look at beetles and things, their patterns are so big.
然后我们得想出
But then we had to sort of work out
如何运用图案或精致的层次
how we could apply patterns or delicate layers,
我们花了数月时间创作这种艺术设计 将分形图案
and we developed this artwork that took months of fractal patterns
与血细胞和孔雀石等元素融合在一起
and mixing blood cells and malachites and that together
向自然主题致敬
which is all part of this nod to the themes of nature.
我们也一直在尝试融入X光的概念
We've also been playing with the idea of X-rays,
并在各种工具和材质上进行设计实验
and we've been developing this on tools and things like that
通过叠加效果让画面不那么平面 色彩不过于饱和
to play with overlays so it's not so flat and saturated.
我们想在米娅的服装上体现出这些
So we've been trying to capture that with Mia's clothing.
开拍
And action.
有一场她与维克多在荒原上的戏
There's a dress for a moment on the heath
维克多在尽力展现魅力
with her and Victor in his full seduction mode,
而我们正在参考美术组制♥作♥的
and we're looking at these beautiful stones
那些精美石景
that art department have created.
石头带有漩涡状纹样
They have these swirling patterns in them.
凯特做了一些很棒的设计
Kate's done some incredible things
从场景中寻找图案 用在服装上
with taking patterns from our sets and using them in the costumes.
(艺术总监 塔玛拉)
凯特知道她的服装设计是色彩
Kate knows that her wardrobe is a piece of color,
造型、信息、美感
a piece of shape and a piece of information
在场景中的体现
and a piece of beauty within a set.
塔玛拉和她讨论非常重要
So Tamara and her, very important that they have a dialogue together.
塔玛拉非常棒 和我们分享 他们工作的每个环节
Tamara's great at sharing every part of their process with us,
我们看他们的创作
and so we look at the work they're doing
我们部门反思她创作的空间结构
and we reflect her architecture and things with our department.
你不会觉得服装和空间结构是割裂的
You don't feel wardrobe pulling one way
and architecture pulling another.
这些想法并不是同时出现并自成一派
These are not isolated ideas that occur at the same time.
你是在执导一场歌♥剧
You're directing an opera,
而一切都指向同一个情感核心
and you're leaning to the same emotional point.
吉列尔莫的目标很明确 我们的摄影指导丹·罗斯特辛也是
Guillermo's very clear, as was Dan Laustsen, our DOP.
观众看到什么颜色非常重要
It was always how color was going to read,
因为你肉眼看到的颜色
because what you see to the naked eye
和你用镜头拍出来的不一样
is not what you're reading on camera ever with these cameras.
我们用数码摄影机进行了大量测试
We do many, many tests through digital cameras.
我们请丹来布置灯光
We got Dan to set up lighting.
我们对整体的色彩基调掌控非常严格
We are very much in control of the color palette,
不然就会影响别人的工作
because otherwise it's changing everybody else's work.
如果凯特花了很多时间找到绿色
You know, if Kate is spending a lot of time to find the green color
而我们把色调变得更蓝 那绿色就会消失
and we're just going to make it more blue, the green is going to disappear.
(摄影指导 丹)
我和丹讨论了影片的绘画式色彩风格
Dan and I talked about the painterly color of the movie,
我最终在序幕与尾声中 采用了蓝、白、金的配色
and we ended up with blue, white and gold for the prologue and the epilogue.
童年时期的片段是黑、白、红
Then the childhood is black and white and red.
从那之后开始添加颜色
From then on, you start adding more colors.
我们讨论了如何打光和场景设计
We talked a lot about how to light it and how the set should look.
当然 这一切都需要与艺术总监 塔玛拉密切合作
And, of course, all that is done with the production designer, Tamara,
因为出色的灯光呈现离不开团队协作
because to light it well is a teamwork.
实验室的变化通过丹的灯光呈现
There's an evolution in the lab, through Dan's lighting.
他用光线讲述一开始的故事
He tells the story when it's fresh.
维克多第一次在这里的时候 光线非常明亮
And the first time that Victor's here, it's very bright,
然后画面逐渐变暗 暴风雨来临
and then it gets darker and the storm comes,
雷电闪现 创造的时刻随之诞生
and then there's lightning, and then there's the moment of creation.
吉列尔莫想要饱和度非常高的颜色
Guillermo wanted very saturated colors.
他想要伊丽莎白的色调是绿色 维克多是红色
Elizabeth he wanted in the greens, and Victor's embraced some of the reds.
非常有趣的配色
And there's sort of an interesting color palette together.
映照出电池和实验室的色彩
It reflects the colors in the batteries and the lab,
共同构成那个略带迷幻的世界
so it's all a part of that slightly psychedelic world.
“怪物”的色调
The color palette for The Creature