苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

这是在苏格兰唯一的同类小屋，真的。
It's the only hut of its type
in Scotland, really.
这种高高在上的山间小屋
This kind of mountain hut
high up in the corries
是在阿尔卑斯山相当流行的东西
is something that's
quite popular in the Alps
但这是我们在这个国家唯一的一个。
but this is the only one
we've got in this country.
那么这就是我们自己的阿尔卑斯山小屋...的确如此，是的。
So this is our very own
Alpine hut... It is indeed, yeah.
...在这里，在一个阿尔卑斯山的环境中。
..here, in an Alpine setting.
它是的，是的。它从1927年起就在这里了，当时它刚建成。
It is, yeah. It's been here
since 1927, when it was first built
所以它在本尼维斯的攀登历史上发挥了巨大的作用。
so it's played a massive part in
the history of climbing on Ben Nevis
但在苏格兰也是如此。
but also in Scotland as well.
从CIC小屋出来一个小时、
An hour out from the CIC Hut,
戴夫和我戴上头盔，穿上板鞋和冰斧
Dave and I don helmets,
crampons and ice axes
并开始认真地攀登。
and begin our climb in earnest.
好吧，戴夫，我们只是在休息一下。是的。
OK, Dave, we're just
taking a wee breather. Yeah.
而且我们周围都有登山者。
And there are climbers
all around us.
但在许多方面、
But in many ways,
这里是苏格兰登山运动真正开始的地方、
this is where mountaineering
in Scotland really began,
特别是冬季登山运动。
winter mountaineering especially.
它确实如此。我的意思是，明显的原因是
It did. I mean,
the obvious reason why
因为这里有很多雪
is because this holds so much snow
而且它在冬天完全变了样。
and it totally transforms in winter.
沟壑中充满了，比如，几十米的雪。
The gullies fill up with,
like, tens of metres of snow
并形成持续半年之久的冰块
and it forms ice
that lasts for half the year
所以很明显，登山者来到这里、
so it's obvious
that climbers came here,
起初是为了训练阿尔卑斯山...
at first for training for the Alps...
对。但随后很快
Right. But then very quickly
他们可以看到，它本身就有价值和乐趣。
they could see that it had a value
and enjoyment in its own right.
他们开始研究本尼维斯的路线，特别是
And they started to look at
the routes on Ben Nevis especially
作为明显的目标。
as being obvious targets.
沟壑是最早被开♥发♥的一些路线吗？
Were the gullies some of the first
routes that were developed?
本-尼维斯的大沟壑是英国最早的路线，真的、
The big gullies of Ben Nevis were
the first routes in the UK, really,
冬天的时候，他们被确定为
in winter, and they were identified
并被攀登者逐一挑走
and picked off one by one
by the climbers
他们被视为真正的高度重视
and they were held
in really high regard
他们真的有一场比赛
and there was really a race for them
其中有几组登山者。
among the groups
of climbers there were.
而这是在19世纪80年代，1♥8♥9♥0年代。
And this is in the 1880s, 1♥8♥9♥0s.
戴夫今天要带我去爬的山叫Gardyloo Gully、
The climb Dave is taking me up today
is called Gardyloo Gully,
维多利亚时代首创的经典之作
a classic that was pioneered
in Victorian times
由身着斜纹软呢的男人。
by men dressed in tweed.
但可悲的是，为了民族自豪感、
But sadly for national pride,
英国登山者对本山留下了第一印象。
English climbers made
the first impression on the Ben.
在1♥8♥9♥7年4月、
In April 1♥8♥9♥7,
三名英国人首次攀登了加迪鲁沟、
three Englishmen climbed
Gardyloo Gully for the first time,
同时，在约翰-贝格的见证下，又一次登上了塔沟。
while another ascent was made of
Tower Gully, witnessed by John Begg.
"用绳索、冰斧在这上面、
"Up this with ropes, ice axes,
"来了三位英国阿尔卑斯山俱乐部的成员。
"came three members
of the English Alpine Club.
"这当然看起来是一个轻率而愚蠢的试验、
"It certainly seemed
a rash and foolhardy experiment,
"但他们的冷静和勇气得到了回报
"but their coolness and courage
were rewarded
"经过六个小时的艰苦工作
"after six hours of hard work
"通过他们安全地到达山顶"。
"by their reaching the summit
in safety."
'我现在开始感到紧张了。
'I'm beginning to feel nervous now.
'高耸的悬崖的巨大规模
'The sheer scale
of the towering cliffs
'是非常吓人的。
'is very intimidating.
'现在是拉起绳子，面对我的恐惧的时候了。
'It's time to rope up
and face down my fears.'
它的名字从何而来，叫 "Gardyloo Gully"？
Where did it get the name
Gardyloo Gully?
嗯，它来自于山顶观测站、
Well, it comes from
the summit observatory,
和酒店以及气象站。
and hotel and meteorological station.
真的吗？
Really?
而为了摆脱他们的垃圾...
And to get rid of their rubbish...
哦，他们没有？他们会把它推到边缘。
Oh, they didn't?
They'd tip it over the edge.
这不是很环保。
That's not very
environmentally friendly.
因此，"Gardyloo "这个称呼是他们在爱丁堡经常喊的。
Hence the call, "Gardyloo," which was
what they used to shout in Edinburgh
当他们把垃圾和水扔出窗外的时候。
when they threw their rubbish
and water out of the window.
Gardyloo Gully是一条简单的三♥级♥冬季路线。
Gardyloo Gully is an easy
Grade Three winter route -
很容易，也就是说，如果你是像戴夫这样有经验的登山者。
easy, that is, if you're an
experienced mountaineer like Dave.
但对我来说，这条狭窄的冰雪手指很陡峭、
But for me, this narrow finger
of steep snow and ice,
切断了上层走廊、
slicing through the upper corrie,
是一个令人望而却步的地方。
is a forbidding place to be.
Gardyloo Gully的交叉点是一个奇怪的冰隧♥道♥、
'The crux pitch of Gardyloo Gully
is a curious ice tunnel,
'在山顶下几百英尺处。
'a couple of hundred feet
beneath the summit.
'蠕动起来的这种不寻常的特征是一种奇怪的体验、
'Wriggling up this unusual feature
is a weird experience,
'像被困在一个洞里。
'like being trapped in a hole.
'现在我被卷入粉雪的洪流中
'Now I'm caught in
a torrent of powder snow
'这完全蒙蔽了我。
'that completely blinds me.'
我什么都看不见！
I can't see a thing!
这是一场残酷的斗争，耗尽了我的所有储备。
'This is a brutal struggle,
and saps all the reserves I have
'甚至在我到达山顶之前。
'even before
I've got to the summit.'
他的短裤
HE PANTS
嗯...
Well...
我已经出洞了!
I'm out of the hole!
我可以告诉你，那是一个可怕的洞。
Was a hell of a hole
to be in, can tell you.
'让我恢复了平静、
'Leaving me to regain my composure,
'戴夫毫不费力地爬上了通往山顶高原的最后一个斜坡、
'Dave effortlessly scales the last
pitch to the summit plateau,
'他准备在那里把我带起来。
'where he prepares to bring me up.'
杀了我！
Killing me!
绝对是要我的命!
Absolutely killing me!
'但这是一场与疲惫和疼痛的肌肉的斗争。
'But it's a struggle against
tired and aching muscles.
我感到如此虚弱，几乎找不到力量
'I feel so weak
I can barely find the strength
'爬上最后几米
'to climb the last few metres
'在天气迅速恶化的情况下。
'in weather that's
rapidly deteriorating.'
这很难得!
It's knackering!
'花了六个多小时才走到这一步
'It's taken over six hours
to get this far
'而现在，天气已经完全封闭。
'and now the weather
has completely closed in.
'当我们在雪地上前进时、
'As we make our way across the snow,
我们经过旧气象观测站的废墟。
'we pass the ruins of
the old weather observatory.
'曾经提供床位过夜的酒店、
'Of the hotel that once offered
a bed for the night,
'根本就没有什么可看的。
'there's nothing to be seen at all.'
如果它仍然开放就好了。
Would be nice it was still open.
可以喝一品脱。
Could do with a pint.
'终于到了山顶、
'On the summit at last,
'我的成就感弥补了没有风景的遗憾。
'my sense of achievement compensates
for the lack of a view.