苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

有些人来到苏格兰是为了探索过去。
Some people come to Scotland
to explore the past.
有些人是来见证壮观的风景。
Some come to witness
the spectacular landscapes.
但是，越来越多的人来到这里，享受大自然的辉煌。
But increasingly,
many come here to enjoy
the splendours of nature.
对我来说，在整个英国，没有其他地方能像这样、
For me, there's nowhere else
like this in the whole of the UK,
以及如果你想体验生活的狂野一面、
and if you want to experience
the wild side of life,
那么这就是你必须要去的地方!
then this is where you have to be!
但要去苏格兰的壮观地点
But getting to Scotland's
spectacular locations
对于普通游客来说，这一直是一个挑战。
has always been something of
a challenge for the average tourist.
在维多利亚时代，布莱克的《苏格兰风景指南》来了、
In Victorian times,
Black's Picturesque Guide
To Scotland came to the rescue,
建议在全国范围内有许多不同的路线。
suggesting a multitude of different
routes across the country.
对于更无畏的游客，布莱克包括了各种长距离的徒步旅行
For the more intrepid tourists,
Black's included a variety
of long-distance walks
导致冒险的维多利亚人进入荒野。
that led adventurous Victorians
into the wilderness.
以布莱克的作品作为我的灵感和指南、
Using Black's as my inspiration
and guide,
我，不走寻常路，从海岸到海岸穿越全国、
I'm, travelling off the beaten
track, crossing the country
from coast to coast,
并追溯这些第一批自然爱好者的足迹。
and retracing the steps of these
first nature lovers.
我的苏格兰大旅行从一个偏远的半岛开始
My Grand Tour across Scotland
begins on a remote peninsula
俯瞰多诺克湾、
overlooking the Dornoch Firth,
向历史悠久的克罗马蒂（Cromarty）进发、
heads towards historic Cromarty,
然后走高路，进入喀里多尼亚松树林、
and then takes the high road
into a Caledonian pine forest,
在一条通往西海岸的古老路线上。
on an ancient route
to the west coast.
我在一个对我来说非常熟悉的地方开始我的旅程。
I'm starting my journey at a place
that's very familiar to me.
塔巴特内斯灯塔，俯瞰多诺克湾。
Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, overlooking
the Dornoch Firth.
在塔尔巴特内斯灯塔之前，这些险峻的岩石夺去了无数人的生命。
These treacherous rocks claimed
numerous lives before
Tarbat Ness lighthouse
始建于1830年。
was built in 1830.
它有40米高，是苏格兰最高的建筑之一。
At 40 metres,
it's one of the tallest in Scotland.
看到这个古老的灯塔带来了各种各样的回忆。
Seeing this old lighthouse brings
back all kinds of memories.
当我17岁的时候，塔尔巴特内斯在一个短暂的时期内，是我称之为家的地方。
When I was 17, Tarbat Ness
was, for a brief period,
the place I called home.
早在1978年，我在北方灯塔委员会有一份工作、
Back in 1978 I had a job with
the Northern Lighthouse Board,
而塔巴特内斯是我驻扎的灯塔之一。
and Tarbat Ness was one of the
lighthouses I was stationed at.
1970年代我在这里工作时，主要的灯塔看守人就住在这里的这所房♥子里、
When I worked here in the 1970s,
the principal lighthouse keeper
lived in this house here,
和他的助手住在这间。
and his assistant lived in this one.
现在，我很不情愿地被安排在那里的小屋里。
Now it was my dubious pleasure
to be accommodated over there
in the bothy.
现在，我不得不说，在这里照看灯光也许并不是
Now, I have to say that tending
the light here wasn't perhaps
最迷人或最有趣的生活方式、
the most glamorous or interesting
of lifestyles,
但偶尔会有来访的游客打破这种单调的生活、
but occasionally the monotony was
broken by a visiting tourist,
他很想知道我们在这里做什么，以及我们如何生活。
who was curious to find out what
we did here and how we lived.
通常由我来带他们参观。
And it was usually left up to me
to show them around.
这勾起了我的回忆。
This brings back memories.
当然，所有的游客都想去塔顶。
Of course, all the tourists wanted
to go to the top of the tower.
但当我们爬上台阶时，他们很少意识到
But as we climbed the steps,
they little realised
他们的脏靴子给我带来了更多的麻烦。
that their dirty boots were making
more work for me.
这座灯塔有219个台阶。
There are 219 steps in this
lighthouse.
现在，这个数字已经深深地印在我的记忆中、
Now, that's a number that's seared
into my memory,
因为当我在这里工作时，我的工作就是用手把它们全部清理干净、
because when I worked here it was my
job to clean them all, by hand,
用浸泡在石蜡中的棉花废料。
with cotton waste
soaked in paraffin.
而且因为当时的消防规定，不允许你把石蜡带走、
And because the fire regulations
were such that you weren't allowed
to take the paraffin with you,
我不得不把它泡在地下室，爬了219级台阶、
I had to soak it in the basement
and climb 219 steps,
清洁5个台阶，下降214个台阶、
clean 5 steps, descend 214 steps,
并重复这个过程，一遍又一遍
and repeat the process over
and over again
直到校长对我的手艺感到满意。
until the principal keeper
was satisfied with my handiwork.
哦，快乐的日子(!)
Oh, happy days(!)
成为一名灯塔看守人并不适合所有人、
'Being a lighthouse keeper
wouldn't be for everyone,
'而且不只是因为所有的楼梯。
'and not just because of
all the stairs.
'有一个长♥期♥的纪律和严格计时的传统
'There was a long tradition
of discipline and rigorous
timekeeping
'这一点，作为一个青少年，我发现相当困难。
'that, as a teenager,
I found pretty hard going.'
现在，这与我在这里工作时完全不同。
Now, this is completely different
from when I worked here.
在我的时代，一盏石蜡灯就站在那里、
Back in my day, a paraffin lamp
stood there,
而我的工作是维持里面的压力。
and it was my job to maintain the
pressure inside.
我的工作也是为保持整个事物转动的发条机制上发条。
It was also my job to wind up
the clockwork mechanism that kept
the whole thing turning.
而当游客来到这里，看到这一切的时候、
And when tourists came up here
and saw all of that,
他们绝对感到惊奇--这似乎是如此原始和老式的。
they were absolutely amazed -
it seemed so primitive and
old-fashioned.
当然是这样，我是一个至少有一个世纪历史的传统的一部分。
And of course it was,
and I was part of a tradition
that was at least a century old.
现在，这让我觉得自己已经很老了!
Now, that makes me feel
pretty ancient!
今天，现代灯塔是完全自动化的、
Today, modern lighthouses
are fully automated,
这意味着不再需要守卫者驻扎在这里了。
meaning there's no longer any need
for keepers to be stationed here.
但有一件事没有改变，那就是令人惊叹的景色
But one thing that hasn't changed
are the stunning views
北部是多诺克湾，南部是克罗马蒂湾、
over the Dornoch Firth to the
North, and the Cromarty Firth
to the south,
这是我下一步要去的地方。
which is where my route
takes me next.
这些是苏塔人、
These are The Soutars,
两个巨大的岬角守卫着克罗默蒂峡湾的入口。
two massive headlands that guard
the entrance to the Cromarty Firth.
布莱克的描述是："海洋的这一分支是
Black's describes this
arm of the sea as
"第一流的港口或避难所，被完全庇护。"
"a first-rate harbour or refuge,
being completely sheltered."
但是，今天的许多游客是来观看一些东西的。
But many of today's visitors come
to catch sight of something
这在我那本旧的维多利亚时代的旅游指南中甚至都没有暗示过。
that's not even hinted at
in my old Victorian guidebook.
从五月到九月，小船带着游客穿越克罗默蒂峡湾的水域。
From May to September, small boats
take tourists across the waters
of the Cromarty Firth
寻找备受喜爱但又难以捉摸的短吻鳄（Tursiops truncatus）、
in search of the much loved
but elusive Tursiops truncatus,
更加著名的是瓶鼻海豚。
better known as
the bottlenose dolphin.
哦，错过了!
Oh, missed it!
我们非常幸运，有一个常住人口
We're very lucky to have
a resident population
这些瓶鼻海豚在这里、
of these bottlenose dolphins up here,
能够在一年中的12个月里看到它们是很可爱的。
and it's lovely to be able
to see them 12 months of the year.
摄影师和自然学家查理-菲利普斯为
Photographer and naturalist
Charlie Phillips works for
是世界上领先的海豚保护协会。
the world's leading dolphin
conservation society.
自20世纪80年代以来，查理一直在研究这些神奇的动物。
Charlie has been studying these
amazing animals since the 1980s.
他出色的图片出色地展示了
His remarkable pictures brilliantly
demonstrate
这就是为什么他们是如此受欢迎的原因。