苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

anybody's ever abseiled down
into this canyon.
这很好。这是开创性的东西，那么。
That's brilliant. This is
pioneering stuff then.
这是，这是开创性的东西。而我是一个先锋。是的，所以你是，是的。
This is, this is pioneering stuff.
And I am a pioneer.
Yes, so you are, yeah.
辉煌。那我们就去开荒吧。让我们去开拓吧。
Brilliant. Let's go pioneering,
then. Let's go pioneering.
显然，对于无畏的默里夫人来说，跳伞并不是一个选项、
Obviously, abseiling wasn't an
option for the intrepid Mrs Murray,
但我认为她会喜欢这个，甚至可能比我更喜欢。
but I think she'd have loved this,
and perhaps even more than me.
莎拉-默里被戏剧性的地点所吸引、
Sarah Murray was drawn to dramatic
locations,
并付出了巨大的努力，以及相当大的风险、
and went to great lengths,
and considerable risk,
来体验大自然的刺♥激♥和原始力量。
to experience the thrill
and raw power of nature.
在她的日记中，她描述了她是如何试图画出这个景象的、
In her journal, she describes
how she tried to draw the view,
坐在激流中的一块巨大岩石上。
sitting on a huge rock
in the middle of the torrent.
"在这种情况下、
"In such a situation,
"几乎不可能保住自己的脑袋不游泳。
"it is almost impossible to preserve
one's head from swimming.
"在我试图写生的过程中，我好几次都不得不闭上眼睛
"In my attempt to sketch
the scenery, I was several times
obliged to shut my eyes
"紧紧抓住岩石，免得我从岩石上掉进漩涡中的泡沫流。"
"and take fast hold of the
rock, least I should drop from it
into the whirling, foaming stream."
正如你所看到的，这是一个令人惊叹的地点。
As you can see, this is
a stupendous location.
而萨拉-默里会拿出她的素描本和她的水彩画
And Sarah Murray would have
whipped out her sketchbook
and her watercolours
并一直在忙着绘制现场。
and have been busy
drawing the scene.
现在，我不是艺术家，所以我的相机只能做。
Now, I'm no artist, so my camera
will just have to do.
任务完成了，但现在我面临着一点问题。
Mission accomplished, but now I'm
faced with a bit of a problem.
我无法再爬上峡谷两边120英尺的悬崖。
I can't climb back up the 120-foot
cliffs on either side of the gorge.
它们太陡峭，太滑了。
They are too steep and too slippery.
只有一个办法可以离开这里，那就是把自己扔出去。
There's only one way out of here,
and that's to throw myself
进入河中，为它而游!
into the river and swim for it!
'在所有这些疯狂的极限运动中、
'In the middle of all this extreme
sports madness,
不可能不提出这样的问题--风度翩翩的萨拉-默里究竟是如何做到的？
'it's impossible not to ask
the question - how on earth did
the genteel Sarah Murray
'到了这个神奇的峡谷底部，开始写生？
'get to the bottom of this
amazing gorge and start sketching?'
啊！看那！看那！看那
Ah! Look at that!
'她一定是找到了一条更容易下来的路，当然。
'She must have found an easier way
down here, surely.'
这就是 "Woeful town of Dollar"、
This is the "Woeful town of Dollar",
正如萨拉-默里在1796年描述的那样，这个地方。
as Sarah Murray described
the place back in 1796.
不敢怠慢，这是我希望恢复的地方
Not to be put off, this is where I
hope to recover
从我的冒险中走出来，找一张床过夜。
from my adventures
and get a bed for the night.
在这样的情况下，黑方的确实很方便。
Black's is really handy
in situations like this.
它绝对是塞满了关于在哪里住宿和费用多少的有用提示。
It's absolutely stuffed full of
useful tips about where to stay
and how much it costs.
它让人读起来很有吸引力。
It makes fascinating reading.
在那时，只要有两个先令就能让你有一张床过夜。
Back then, just two shillings
would get you a bed for the night.
但是，令人不安的是，一瓶雪利酒
But, disturbingly,
a bottle of sherry
比你的住宿费用更高。
cost more than your accommodation.
更糟糕的是，有时根本就没有酒可喝。
Even worse, there was sometimes
no wine available at all.
哦，亲爱的（！）。
Oh, dear(!)
发现自布莱克时代以来，事情已经发生了变化，这是一种解脱。
It's a relief to discover
that things have moved on since
Black's day.
在镇上的酒店有一个库存充足的酒吧、
There's a fully-stocked bar
at the hotel in town,
在这里我遇到了历史学家凯文-詹姆斯
which is where I meet up with
historian Kevin James
在一两杯里奥哈中。
over a glass or two of Rioja.
凯文，当时的住宿标准是怎样的？
Kevin, what was the standard of
accommodation like back then?
他们能期待什么样的夜晚的床的质量？
What kind of quality of bed
for the night could they expect?
他们可能根本无法期待一个非常高的质量。
They might not be able to expect
a very high quality one at all.
我的意思是，在游记中，有很多很多的参考资料、
I mean, there are lots and lots of
references in travelogues,
在大众旅游时代之前，如果我们想这么说的话、
before the era of mass tourism,
if we want to call it that,
遇到跳蚤的人
of people encountering fleas
并睡在木板上，甚至睡在泥土地上。
and sleeping on boards
and even on dirt floors.
到了维多利亚时代，更多的游客来到了苏格兰
By Victorian times, more tourists
were coming to Scotland
寻找住宿、
looking for accommodation,
人们在那里看到了一个商业机会。
and people saw a business
opportunity there.
而有一个角色特别成为
And there was one character
in particular that became
可以说是臭名昭著。
quite notorious, shall we say.
哦，当然。我的意思是，这是个出现在
Oh, absolutely. I mean, this is
a figure who appears in
各类旅游指南
all kinds of both guidebooks
和游记，即所谓的苏格兰旅馆老板。
and travelogues, the so-called
Scotch innkeeper.
而他最著名的只是他的吝啬。
And what he's most famous for
is just his miserliness.
还有高昂的食品和饮料价格。
And exorbitant rates for food
and drink, too.
因此，很多旅行者离开时抱怨说，虽然
And so a lot of travellers leave
complaining that although
比如说，住宿、
the accommodation, for instance,
而且这块板子可能不会太贵、
and the board might not have been
too expensive,
一旦他们离开酒店，或正在离开酒店、
once they left the hotel,
or were leaving the hotel,
他们收到了一份包含所有这些额外费用的账单
they were presented with a bill
that contained all of these
additional charges
这加起来，偶尔也是如此、
that added up to, occasionally,
也远远超过了一晚的住宿费用。
much more than the cost of
a night's stay, too.
但对苏格兰来说，这并不是一个很好的广♥告♥，肯定吗？
But not a great advertisement
for Scotland, surely?
相反，你知道，目光短浅。
Rather, you know, short-sighted.
你不会得到非常多的回头客。
You're not going to get very many
returning guests.
不，它是...有一个悖论、
No, it's... There's a paradox,
不过，对苏格兰旅馆老板的形象而言、
though, to the figure of
the Scotch innkeeper,
而这在某种程度上就是这样、
and that is that to some extent,
我认为人们出去寻找他。
I think people went out
in search of him.
我想这个旅行者出去寻找他了、
I think the traveller went out
in search of him,
部分原因是他们不想住在一些不伦不类的酒店、
in part because they didn't want
to stay in some anodyne hotel,
某个国际大都市的酒店，有一个德国经理和一个瑞士服务员。
some cosmopolitan hotel with
a German manager and a Swiss waiter.
他们的部分动机是为了体验文化
Part of their motivation was
to experience the culture
他们所看到的苏格兰的情况。文化，尤其是、
of Scotland as they saw it.
The culture, in particular,
高地人的，凯尔特人的，他们经常这样描述。
of the Highlanders, of the Celt, as
they often described it.
而这意味着这种原始的住宿、
And this meant this kind of
primitive accommodation,
这种吝啬的人物、
this sort of miserly figure,
以某种方式为他们鉴定了旅行经验。
somehow authenticated
the travel experience for them.
留下凯文擦掉最后的里奥哈酒、
Leaving Kevin to polish off the last
of the Rioja,
我又重新上路了。
I'm back on the road again.
'但要到达我的下一个目的地、
'But to get to my next destination,
'我得用一点巧劲和我的拇指。
'I'm going to have to use
a little ingenuity and my thumb.'
现在，这是我多年来没有做过的事情。
Now, this is something
I've not done for years.
但作为一个孩子，搭车是一个15岁的孩子唯一的出路。
But as a kid, hitchhiking was
the only way a 15-year-old
没有钱的人可以探索苏格兰。