苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

苏格兰丰富多样的景观
Scotland's rich and varied landscape
200多年来一直吸引着来自世界各地的游客。
has drawn tourists from around
the world for over 200 years -
而到了维多利亚时代的末期、
and by the end of the Victorian era,
苏格兰是一个最受欢迎的夏季目的地。
Scotland was a favourite
summer destination.
但是，当冬天的寒风开始吹拂时，发生了什么？
But what happened when the chill
winds of winter began to blow
而游客们则收拾好行李，往家里走去？
and the tourists packed their bags
and headed for home?
缓慢但肯定、
Slowly but surely,
有进取心的维多利亚人开始引诱游客回来。
enterprising Victorians
began to lure the tourists back.
使用寒冷、
Using the cold,
他们将高原作为冬季度假的目的地进行宣传。
they promoted the Highlands
as a winter holiday destination.
冰壶、滑冰、登山的游乐场、
A playground for curling,
for skating, for mountaineering,
并用于滑雪。
and for skiing.
毕竟，它就像瑞士，不是吗？
After all, it's just like
Switzerland, isn't it?
我一直在苏格兰旅行
I've been travelling through
Scotland
从加洛韦海岸到罗斯郡的峡谷、
from the Galloway Coast
to the Glens of Ross-shire,
遵循最早出版的旅游指南之一所建议的路线 --
following routes
suggested by one of the first
tourist guides ever published -
布莱克的《苏格兰风景指南》。
Black's
Picturesque Guide to Scotland.
这本精彩的维多利亚时代的书在我的感情中有着特殊的地位。
This wonderful Victorian volume has
a special place in my affections.
当我们去度假时，它曾经指导过我自己的家人。
It once guided my own family
when we went on holiday.
40年过去了，我正把它尘封起来
40 years on, I'm dusting it down
并出发去重拾黄金时代、
and setting off to recapture
the golden age,
当年苏格兰是度假胜地皇冠上的一颗明珠。
when Scotland was a jewel in
the crown of holiday destinations.
在我的最后旅程中，我将去滑雪道以外的地方
For my final journey,
I'm going off-piste
来发现苏格兰是如何将自己作为冬季游乐场来推销的。
to discover how Scotland sold
itself as a winter playground.
我的苏格兰大旅行的最后一程
The last journey
of my Grand Tour of Scotland
把我从门蒂斯湖的冰冷海岸带出来、
takes me from the icy
shores of the Lake of Menteith,
通过雪域高原、
through the snowbound Highlands,
到英国最高的、也是最适合冬天的山峰的顶峰、
to the summit of Britain's highest
and most wintery mountain,
本尼维斯。
Ben Nevis.
在维多利亚时代，严寒的冬天很常见、
Harsh winters were common
in Victorian times,
而《布莱克指南》兴奋地介绍了游客的情况
and Black's Guide excitedly
presents the tourist
有一些关于 "冰冻的北方 "的令人印象深刻的统计数据。
with some impressive statistics
about the "frozen north".
"有记录的最低温度，零下12华氏度、
"The lowest temperatures recorded,
minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit,
"或44度的霜冻、
"or 44 degrees of frost,
"在唐河和迪河的上游河谷中观察到。
"were observed in the upper valleys
of the Don and the Dee
"在1860年圣诞节"。
"at Christmas 1860."
现在像这样的条件似乎很理想
Now conditions like these
seemed ideal
因为他们把苏格兰变成了一个游客的冬季仙境。
for transforming Scotland
into a tourists' winter wonderland.
这是两年前的Menteith湖、
This is the Lake of Menteith
two years ago,
当我能够享受到在冰上比赛的快♥感♥时、
when I was able to enjoy
the thrill of playing on the ice,
就像在维多利亚时代一样、
just as in Victorian times,
当严寒的霜冻将其水域变成一个巨大的溜冰场、
when bitter frosts transformed
its waters into a huge ice rink,
让古老的冰壶游戏得以进行。
allowing the ancient game of curling
to take place.
著名的是，门蒂斯湖曾经是
Famously, the Lake of Menteith
was once the venue
为伟大的年度冰壶比赛，称为Bonspiel。
for the great annual curling match
called the Bonspiel.
这一全国性比赛上一次在湖上举♥行♥是在1979年。
This national competition was
last held on the lake in 1979.
这是一个辉煌的景象、
It was a splendid spectacle,
成千上万的人来到这里，为石块与冰块的碰撞而兴奋不已。
and thousands came to thrill
to the clash of stone on ice.
要了解更多关于 "咆哮游戏 "的历史、
To find out more about the history
of the "roaring game",
我现在和鲍勃-凯利一起在湖上、
I'm joining Bob Kelly on the Lake,
今年不要滑过冰面、
not to slide across the ice
this year,
但要用船在其水域中航行。
but to ply its waters in a boat.
鲍勃，这是对气候变化的一种悲哀的证明，不是吗、
Bob, it's a bit of a sad testament
to climate change, isn't it,
我们在这里坐船而不是在冰上？
that we're out here in a boat
instead of being on the ice?
嗯，这不就是吗？是的，如果认为我们能体验到以下情况就好了
Well, isn't it just? Yes, it would be
lovely to think we could experience
我们在1979年有同样的条件，但这就是事实。
the same conditions we had in 1979,
but that's the way it is.
但你在1979年就在那里。
But you were there in 1979.
我当然是这样，是的，享受其中的每一分钟。
I certainly was indeed, yes,
enjoyed every minute of it.
这只是一个奇妙的一天。
It was just a fantastic day.
我们正在谈论600个团队，2500......2400名冰壶运动员。
We're talking about 600 teams,
2,500...2,400 curlers.
2,400名冰壶运动员在这块冰上。
2,400 curlers on this ice.
2,400名冰壶运动员在冰上。加上观众。
2,400 curlers on the ice.
Plus spectators.
加上观众，加上官员。这绝对是令人难以置信的。
Plus spectators, plus officials.
It was just absolutely unbelievable.
阳光照耀了整整一天。
The sun shone the whole day.
这是一个美丽的天气，美丽的条件。
It was beautiful weather,
beautiful conditions.
很多人志同道合，都很有激♥情♥、
Loads of people like-minded,
all passionate,
兴奋，对未来的日子充满了期待。这真是太棒了。
excited, with great anticipation
about the day ahead.
It was fantastic.
我想在过去的日子里，一定有更冷的冬天
I suppose in the old days, there
must have been much colder winters
有定期比赛外
to have regular matches outside
因为他们没有办法进去。
because they wouldn't have had
the alternative of going inside.
嗯，这是对的。唯一发生的冰壶比赛是在户外进行的
Well, that's right. The only curling
that took place was outdoors
在自然冻结的冰面上。
on naturally frozen ice.
每个小村庄都会有一个冰壶池
Every little village
would have a curling pond
当然，在每年的那个时候、
and at that time of year, of course,
没有太多的农活要做，所以当天气好的时候、
not too many farming duties to be
done, so when the weather was right,
整个社区将走出家门，享受冰壶运动的乐趣。
the whole community would get out
and enjoy the sport of curling.
那么这项运动的历史有多长呢？嗯，有一个好问题。
And how old is the sport?
Well, there's a good question.
我认为没有人真正知道它有多老。
I don't think anybody really knows
how old it is.
现存有一块石头，叫做斯特林石
There is a stone in existence
called the Stirling stone
它实际上刻有1511年的日期、
which is actually engraved
with the date 1511,
但没有人绝对确定这是否是真的、
but nobody's absolutely sure
whether that's genuine or not,
但它肯定可以追溯到可能与此差不多的地方。
but it certainly goes back probably
just about as far as that
甚至可能更远。
and maybe even further.
维多利亚州的游客发现这种兴奋感很有感染力。
Victorian tourists found
the excitement infectious.
"整个事件有一种真正的国家消遣的感觉。
"There is a true ring
of the national pastime
about the whole affair.
"Ch-ch-ch嘶吼着，石头被送到冰面上滑行。
"Ch-ch-ch hissed the stone as it
was sent skimming over the ice.
"响亮的、不间断的呼喊着'喝汤吧，Mun，喝汤吧！'。
"Loud and ceaseless were the cries
of 'Soup it up, mun, soup it up!'
"从兴奋的旁观者那里"。
"from the excited bystanders."
留给鲍勃-凯利的是他对寒冷冬天的回忆、
Leaving Bob Kelly
with his memories of colder winters,
和 "咆哮的游戏"、
and the 'roaring game',
我沿着一条冬季路线向高地出发
I set off into the Highlands,
following a winter route
一位英国游客和旅行作家描述了其所有的霜冻的荣耀、
described in all its frosty glory
by an English tourist
and travel writer,
MJB Baddeley，1♥8♥9♥4年来到苏格兰。
MJB Baddeley,
who came to Scotland in 1♥8♥9♥4.
巴德利对他在参观中发现的情况感到惊讶。