超模们（2023）

And it wasn't just about fashion, it was about music, it was a lifestyle.
(造型提供:回忆第五大道)
噢,颓废运动
The grunge movement.
那让我感到害怕
I got scared there.
我害怕我无法融入
I got scared I didn't belong.
那很有趣,因为我拍照时会低头垂肩
It's so funny because I would be, like, slouched over for the picture,
然后他们会说“换底片”
and then they would, like, say, "Change film."
他们会说“好的,放轻松”,我就一副...
And they'd say, "Okay, relax." And I would be like...
我会这样站著...
And I'd be, like, standing like...
我觉得非常有趣
You know, I found it very amusing.
我不认为人们会想要炫耀
I don't think that people want to show off the fact
他们很有钱,虽然设计师品牌服饰很贵
that they have a lot of money, so although designer clothes are expensive,
我认为需要稍微低调一点
I think there has to be a little bit more subdued.
但我觉得那些作风酷帅的人会认为
But I feel like probably for anyone on the cool side to be like,
“结束了,超级名模穿颓废风 那算什么?”
"Oh, there's the end, supermodels in grunge, what is that?"
我不确定单靠时尚就能够推动文化
I'm not sure that fashion alone pushes the culture forward,
但我的确认为时尚有点像个告示板
but I do think that it's kind of a sign post...
(罗宾吉凡 《华♥盛♥顿♥邮♥报♥》特约评论家)
告诉你文化的走向
...that tells you where the culture is.
是嘻哈文化
It's the hip hop culture.
现在饶舌、时尚和文化变得密不可分
So now you got rap, fashion, culture all together.
嘻哈音乐从一出现就对时尚 带来不可思议的影响
I mean, hip-hop was this unbelievable fashion influence from day one.
这是另一个完全不同的大类别 席卷了全世界
This was a whole different huge genre that took over the world.
卡尔注意到街头风潮,他融入了嘻哈元素
With his eye on the street, Karl takes a hip-hop beat.
得反应出今日和明日的文化
It has to reflect in a way the life of today of tomorrow.
如果不这么做,就毫无意义
If not, it doesn't say anything.
音乐确实是当今影响时尚的元素
Music is really the thing where the fashion influence comes from today.
音乐带来了颜色和其他一切
That brings the color, that brings everything.
(卡尔拉格斐,巴黎)
1990年代 是对之前时尚潮流的一种反击
The '90s was a sort of counteract to what had come before in fashion,
对于社会现象的一种反应
much more of a response to what was happening in society.
戈巴契夫先生终于让苏联瓦解了
Mister Gorbachev finally brought the curtain down on the Soviet Union.
模特儿星探在前苏联区域的
Model scouts were now roaming the streets
街道上漫游
of these former Soviet areas
寻找吸引他们的脸孔
and, you know, looking for faces that...
能激发他们想像力的脸孔
you know, appealed to them and that captured their imagination.
好学生是来自东欧国家的那一群
The good students are the ones from Eastern European countries.
来自东欧的那一群?为什么? 因为她们很有野心吗?
The ones from East European? Why? 'Cause they're so ambitious?
野心、渴望,她们想要逃脱
Ambitious, hungry and they want to get out.
金钱
Money.
所以他们开始引进白人女孩 纤瘦的白人女孩
So that's started to bring white girls in, but skinny white girls,
不见得要有个性这类的
girls with not necessarily personality or anything.
(贝瑟恩哈迪森,模特儿 黑人女孩联盟共同创办人)
接下来为各位带来 《精英模特儿年度脸孔》
Stay tuned for Elite Model Look of the Year.
我们要走向麦克风,站在麦克风前面
We're going up to the microphone and then standing at the microphone,
清楚说出妳的名字和国籍
saying your name and your country very clearly.
他们可以请到 40位来自东欧国家的模特儿
They could use 40 models coming out of, like, Eastern European countries
而不是十位超级昂贵的大牌模特儿
as opposed to ten big models they had to pay a lot of money to.
用40位不知名的模特儿比较便宜
It was, like, cheaper to use 40 unknown models.
但为了这么做,每个人的尺寸要一样才行
But in order to do that, everyone had to be the exact same size.
突然之间 我们见到各式各样的新模特儿
Suddenly, we see all kinds of new models coming up,
其中有一些来自我的经纪公♥司♥ 所以我很喜欢
including from my agency, so I like it.
我认为她们给那些自以为胜券在握的
I think that it gives a run for their money
模特儿带来很大的挑战
to the ones who thought they had it all made.
这与种族无关,重点在于根除所有
It wasn't so much about race, it was just eradicating anything
分散大家对于衣服注意力的东西
that distracted from clothing, from the collection.
所以你请来这些女孩
So, you got these girls.
她们的出现只有一瞬间 这变成了一种潮流
It became just the moment and it became something that became a trend.
尽管设计师宣称自己非常独♥立♥
And designers as independent as they are,
非常与众不同,他们的确是如此
as different as they all claim to be, and they are,
当潮流出现时 他们似乎立刻就会呼应潮流
when a trend happens, it seems like they go right down the yellow brick road
一个学一个
and they're following each other.
对于这种新造型妳有什么想法? 妳会如何形容?
What do you think this new look is, how would you describe it?
他们称为流浪儿,对吧?
They call them the waif, right?
这些年轻女孩 她们的发丝黏稠、素颜
These young girls, they have, like, stringy hair, no make-up,
用一种空洞的神情看著镜头
kind of this blank expression into the camera.
这对我们来说有什么意义? - 我办得到!我也可以
What does that mean for us? - I can do that! I can do it too.
几乎就像是在对超级名模说不
It almost felt like a rejection of the supermodel
对我们所代表的一切说不
and everything we embodied.
流浪儿造型
The waif look.
她们像个孩子般脆弱,个子通常不高
They're child-like, vulnerable and often small,
比常见的伸展台模特儿矮上15公分
as much as six inches shorter than the usual runway model.
这些新面孔有夏露 还有19岁的琥珀瓦莱塔
Among the new names is Shalom, there's 19-year-old Amber Veletta,
她并不想成为超级名模
who doesn't want to be a supermodel.
和也是19岁的凯特摩丝
And Kate Moss, also 19,
她正朝著超级名模之路迈进 但她有点无法想像
who's well on her way to becoming one but can't quite imagine it.
我不觉得我跟她们一样
I don't think I'm the same thing as them.
(凯特摩丝,模特儿)
她们与我不同,她们比较见多识广
They're different. They're just more sophisticated.
她们是女人,而我其实还不太算是女人 我不这么认为
They're women and I'm not really a woman yet, I don't think.
(《爱的第三夏》)
凯特摩丝,当她进入了模特儿界
Kate Moss, when she came in the picture,
我认为她改变了超级名模的游戏规则
I think changed the game of the supermodel.
她不算超级漂亮,她比较矮
She was not super beautiful. She was shorter.
她的腿不够直,她的牙齿有点不整齐
Her legs are crooked, her teeth are a little bit like...
但她就是有某种特质
But just something touching about her.
有种脆弱感,让你想要接近她
There's a fragility that you wanted to get close to.
凯特非常棒,她很像个流浪儿
Kate is so wonderful, I mean, she's so waif-like.
而当时的风气
And there's this whole new thing
很渴望一种新的形象,一张新面孔
of wanting to see a new image, a new face.
而凯特就是非常棒
And Kate is just wonderful.
我们合作拍摄卡文的广♥告♥
We worked together doing advertising for Calvin.
我们的确跨越了不同属性 尤其是娜欧蜜和我
And we did have this crossover, especially Naomi and I,
我们和凯特很亲近
were really close with Kate.
她比我小五岁,比娜欧蜜小四岁
She's five years younger than me, four years younger than Naomi,
但我们觉得她是另一种志同道合的伙伴 我们理解彼此
but we also felt like that was another kind of cohort that also made sense.
因为这样,某种程度而言我们觉得
And because of that, in a way, we felt a little bit more
我们仍然和下一个世代有关联
still connected to that next generation.
无可争议的超模对于她们 被冷落的报导起了防卫心
The undisputed supermodels are defensive about reports they're being sidelined.
如果你有个冰球队 你不会一次解雇所有球员
If you have a hockey team, you don't retire the whole team all at once.
你会一次引进一名新秀
You bring in rookies one at a time.
见到这些新面孔真的很棒
I mean, I'm... It's really nice to see these new girls.
我最讨厌的问题是
The question I hate the most,
“当妳年纪太大时,妳打算怎么办?”
"What are you going to do when you're too old?"
这种问题很可恶
It's such a nasty question.
妳想当演员吗?
Do you want to be an actress?
我不觉得我想...
I don't think I want to go...
我知道我不会走上那条路
I know I won't go out there and pursue it.
那似乎是个很自然的走向,接下来的发展
It just seems like the natural thing to do to carry on,
因为当这一切中止时,妳还能做什么?
'cause when this all comes to a halt, it's like what else do you do?
辛蒂克劳馥无疑是超级名模女王
Cindy Crawford is the hands-down queen of the supermodels,
但她在大银幕的表现 能够与她的杂♥志♥封面媲美吗?
but can she be as big on the big screen as she is on magazine covers?
全球知名的超级名模 首度现身大银幕的角色是一名律师
The world famous supermodel's first screen test is as a lawyer.
你对于律师有什么不满?
Do you have a problem with lawyers or something?
在《超速快♥感♥》这部惊悚片 里饰演被俄♥罗♥斯♥黑帮锁定的暗♥杀♥目标
Marked for death by the Russian mob in the thriller, Fair Game.
你知道他们怎么称呼穿三件式西装的 佛罗里达警♥察♥吗?
You know what they call a Florida cop in a three-piece suit?
不知道,是什么?
No, what?
被告
The defendant.
我从来没拟过人生计划
I never had a master plan.
我认为很多时候我只是愿意
I think a lot of things were just my willingness
冒险,做不同的尝试
to take a chance and try something a little bit different.
卡,最后停在D脚架,拍到了 - 我们拍到了吗?
Cut. End sticks on D. That's a cut. - Did we get it?
但我也有过尝试失败的经验
But there's been things that I've tried that haven't been successful.
她现在29岁 是个非常好的时间点让她从
She's 29. It's a great time for her to transition
模特儿转型成演员,因为两年过后
from modelling to acting because in a couple years
她当模特儿就太老了
she'll be too old to do modeling.
听到他们说我是个糟糕的演员 我其实不太难过
I wasn't that upset they said I was a terrible actress,
但有位女影评说我这种长相的女性
but a female critic said that someone that looked like me
不可能是律师,这就冒犯到我了
couldn't be a lawyer, and I was so offended.
我以自己为傲,我不会因为害怕出现负评
I'm proud of myself for not being afraid of criticism...
就不敢做新的尝试
...that I wouldn't try something new.
在1990年代好莱坞星球餐厅 和硬石餐厅经营得非常成功
In the '90s, Planet Hollywood and the Hard Rock Cafe had done very well.
然后出现了时尚咖啡
And then there was the Fashion Cafe.
(时尚咖啡,伦敦)