超模们（2023）

吉安尼凡赛斯 真正扩展了时尚的广度
Gianni Versace was somebody who really opened up fashion
呈现出前所未见的风格
and showed things that had not been seen before.
(苏茜门克斯,官佐勋章,时尚记者)
但他同时呈现出女性非常性感的一面
But also, it was the way he showed them. Very sexual.
非常义大利作风,如果我没说错的话
Molto italiano, if I said that right.
他是义大利至今最性感的设计师
He's the sexiest designer in Italy by far,
这也是义大利整周最棒的一场秀
and it's the best show of the whole week in Italy as well,
所以我只有走这场秀
so that's why I only showed up for this show.
他对于我的感受很敏感...
He was very sensitive to feeling me, like...
我什么都不用说,他就会过来告诉我
I wouldn't have to say something, he would just come up and say it to me.
我心想“你说对了”
And I'd be like, "You're right."
吉安尼不害怕装饰
Gianni wasn't afraid to embellish things.
愈多愈好,愈多愈美
It was like more is more, more is great.
总是浮夸到不行,但有何不可?
It was always over the top and why not?
我知道我的价值
I know my value.
如果你想要我为你走秀 你就能够得到精美的照片
If you want me to walk for you, you're gonna get your pictures,
我会让你出现在媒体上
I'm gonna get you press.
只要我买♥♥得起,我都愿意送给她们
I would give them everything I could afford
因为没有人比得上她们更会卖♥♥衣服
because there's nothing like them for selling the clothes,
她们能够用心展示出衣服的特色
they show the clothes, they feel the clothes.
娜欧蜜有次穿了橡胶长筒袜
Naomi, once she was wearing rubber stockings.
结果腿被卡住了,所以她绊倒了
What happened is that the leg got stuck, and so she tipped.
(薇薇安魏斯伍德,设计师)
之后有设计师问我 我是否愿意为他们跌倒
Afterwards, designers asked me if I would fall for them.
我心想
And I was like,
“你为什么想要我跌倒?” - 对呀,为什么?
"Why would you want me to fall--?" - Why? Yeah.
媒体曝光,“妳曝光的程度” - 对,我懂
Press! "The press that you got." - Yes, I know.
(魏斯伍德鼓吹优雅)
不出所料,她们最近的名气 让大家开始关注
And not surprisingly, their newfound fame has focused attention
她们的权力和惊人所得
on their power and mega salaries.
在巴黎办一场秀的花费可达17万美元
The cost of a single show in Paris can reach 170,000 dollars.
占比最高的是请模特儿的花费
Topping the bill, modelling fees.
浪凡据说花了两万美元
The House of Lanvin reportedly paid 20,000 dollars in fees
请顶级模特儿琳达伊凡吉莉丝塔走一场秀
for top model Linda Evangelista for one show.
你知道价格不斐,但马上就赚回来了
You know the fees are high, but you get it back in a minute.
因为摄影师只会拍她们
Because photographers photograph only those,
走秀的照片会出现在全球的专题报导
the runway photos make editorials all around the world.
(一杯苏格兰威士忌)
有了一点权力之后最终让我感到
I feel like eventually with a little bit more power, I'd be like,
“好的,我想和跟我真正有交情的 设计师多多合作”
"Okay, I want to work a lot with designers who I actually had a relationship with."
那个时候她们真的帮助了很多年轻设计师
At that point, they really helped a lot of the young designers
立刻从没没无闻变得众人皆知
go from being unknown to being known right away.
(保罗卡瓦科,造型师兼艺术指导)
妳在没没无闻时得到了这种机会
You got that opportunity when you were an unknown,
所以妳得给予别人这种机会
so you need to pass that on and do it to others.
马克雅各布斯一直以来都是我的好友
Marc Jacobs was a really good friend always,
我从一开始就跟他合作
and I worked with him from the very beginning.
马克的品牌和派瑞艾力斯的品牌很搭
Marc's brand made sense for the Perry Ellis brand,
他们都注入了一些活力和刺♥激♥感
in terms of, like, infusing some energy and excitement.
我请不起模特儿走秀
I wasn't able to pay models to do my show.
(马克雅各布斯,设计师)
我打给经纪公♥司♥问他们
I would call the agencies and I would ask them
是否有模特儿愿意用衣服替代走秀的报酬
if there were models that would be willing to do the show in trade for clothes.
克莉丝蒂点头了
And Christy was willing to do it.
然后下一季的时装秀,克莉丝蒂问了辛蒂
And then the next season when we did a show, Christy asked Cindy.
然后是娜欧蜜,再来是琳达
Then there was Naomi and then there was Linda.
大家开始注意到我 我的知名度便一直攀升
The attention just kind of grew. And it grew and grew and grew.
但这全都是因为克莉丝蒂
But it was-- It was all because of Christy.
马克,有超级名模 帮你卖♥♥衣服到底有多重要?
Marc, how important is it having supermodels there to sell your line?
很重要,因为大家把她们视为偶像
It is important because people recognize them as icons.
那些女孩漂亮得不可思议
Those girls are incredibly beautiful.
她们懂得展示衣服
They know how to wear clothes.
我真的很感激她们帮我走秀
I'm really grateful that they do my show
她们大多都是我真正的朋友
and a lot of them are really... friends and stuff.
那个时候我不算真正有在办时装秀
I was not really doing a fashion show at that point.
(安娜苏,设计师)
我说“我要怎么办秀?” 她们说“我们可以帮妳”
And I said, "Well, how can I do a show?" They said, "Well, we'll help you."
琳达、娜欧蜜和克莉丝蒂召集了其他女模
And Linda, Naomi, and Christy all got all the other girls
那是我的第一场秀
and that was my first show.
我们都感受得到她们的影响力
We really felt this thing that was happening.
我要琳达,琳达...
I need Linda. Linda! Linda, Linda, Linda.
最棒的一点在于她们在世界跑透透
What was so great is that, you know, they were around the world.
她们能够得到我们得不到的见识
And they would see things that we didn't necessarily see.
(艾萨克麦兹拉西,设计师)
所以我满仰赖她们的反应
So, I would kind of rely on the reaction.
妳穿起来有什么感觉? - 像个公主
How do you feel in that? - Like a princess.
“好的,她喜欢,很好 我们的方向对了”
"Okay, she likes it, good, we're onto something here."
她们是时尚的一环
They were part of the fabric of fashion.
所以大家都想争取她们
So, that's why, you know, everyone was fighting to get them.
她们变得非常重要
That's how important they became.
我想要呈现一种沙龙氛围
I wanted to do a slightly more, like, salon presentation.
所以我找了一栋房♥子
So, it was in a house.
一栋颓圮的房♥子 我们在屋内放了很多树叶
It was run down, and we brought in a ton of leaves
和干冰,从外面照亮这栋房♥子
and dry ice and lit the house from outside
(约翰加利亚诺,设计师)
所以她看起来像是离家之后又决定回家
so it looked like she'd left the house and was coming back.
突然之间,克莉丝蒂、琳达...
Suddenly, Christy, Linda...
她们从台阶上走下来
They were walking down the stairs.
她们近在咫尺
And they were this close.
你可以闻到琳达身上的香水味
You could smell the parfum that Linda was wearing.
你可以听到克莉丝蒂穿著的 塔夫绸裙子发出的沙沙声
You could hear the rustle of Christy's taffeta skirt.
我们出场前,约翰会在我们耳边低语
John would whisper in our ear before we went out,
“这是妳的故事线
"This is your storyline,
这是妳在这个故事里的角色
this is what your character is in the story,
所以妳得带著这股能量出场”
so you go out with this energy."
我好爱
I loved it.
在这群女性的协助之下
To finally see the vision come to life
我终于实现了我的愿景 她们在乎的程度不亚于我
by these women who cared as much as I did,
在创作的过程中能够有她们的参与
and to be involved in that whole creative process with them
那实在是我创意生涯的巅峰
was just the highlight of my creative career, I think.
(巴黎)
是娜欧蜜
Oh, Naomi.
欧蜜?嗨
Omi? Hi.
对,我想我传讯息给妳又传错号♥码了
Yeah, I think I texted you on the wrong number again.
我不知道为什么我总是会搞错妳的号♥码
I don't know why I have you all mixed up everywhere.
我们昨天早上才刚抵达,然后昨晚去试装
We just got here yesterday morning and we went and did our fitting last night.
今天我们就是随意走走
And then today, we've been just kind of out and about.
我们到了 - 我们到了
We're here!
我绝对不是一个激动派
I definitely am not a dramatic person.
谢谢 - 不客气
Thank you. - You're welcome.
(克莉丝蒂)
进来吧 - 好
Come back in. - All right.
妳好吗? - 很好
How are you? - Good.
关于这点...
It's something that I, you know, I...
我想我并没有刻意回避,我就不是那种人
I guess I haven't been consciously avoiding, it's just not me.
好的 - 好的,我就在那里
Okay. - Okay, I'm right there.
我好兴奋 - 我知道,我好开心
I'm so excited. - I know, I'm so happy.
有很多人更加戏剧化
There were plenty of others that were more dramatic
或者性格更为强烈
or just had bigger kinds of personalities,
我觉得我无法跟她们竞争
and I just didn't feel like I could compete with any of that.
娜欧蜜...
Naomi! Naomi! Naomi! Naomi!
在台阶上
On the stairs.
很美,对吧? - 好美,没错
That's just beautiful, right? - It's so beautiful, yeah.
他好棒,他的品味很不得了 - 音乐也棒透了
He's amazing. He's got amazing taste. - And the music is amazing.
她们让我很欣赏的一点 在于她们是一个团体
What I loved about the girls, they were a group.
这才是美妙之处
And that's what was so fabulous.
(唐娜凯伦,设计师)
她们一起工作
They worked together.
(超级名模)
(眼睛,追星)
(大部分是人台模特儿)
这些女孩远远不只是模特儿
These girls were way beyond models.
她们的生活多采多姿 每个人都想成为她们
They had these lives, and everybody wanted to be them,
而且她们看起来很美,她们玩得很开心
and they looked amazing, they were having fun
大家总是在谈论她们
and they were being talked about all the time.
她们超越了大家对于时尚的认知
They transcended anything people thought fashion had been.
影响范围遍及大众文化
And crossed over into mass culture.
(提姆布兰克斯,《时尚界》特约编辑)