超模们（2023）

Nobody walked like Naomi.
她走起秀来,基本上散发出“别挡路
She had a walk that basically said, "Get the fuck out of my way,
因为有我在的地方,我就是老大”
'cause I'm owning wherever I'm going."
我记得在一场秀上,我母亲
I remember one show, my mother,
她是一位直到不行的中年妇女
who is, like, the straightest, sort of, middle-aged woman.
这个时候她大概是65岁
At this point, she was probably in her mid-sixties.
时装秀结束之后,她对我说
After the show, she came up to me, she said,
“亲爱的,我愿意和娜欧蜜坎贝儿上♥床♥”
"Darling, I would have sex with Naomi Campbell."
辉煌的日子
The glory days!
但是,要记得,那些辉煌的日子
But, remember, in those glory days...
并不完美
...it wasn't perfect.
因为...
Because...
因为不是每场秀都会找娜欧蜜
Because Naomi wasn't always booked to do the shows.
我不明白
See, I didn't understand.
我觉得娜欧蜜更漂亮
Naomi, I thought was more beautiful,
身材比我更好
had a much more rockin' body than I did.
有更佳的姿态
And a better strut.
我心想“为什么他们不找她?”
And I'm, like, "Why aren't they booking her?"
娜欧蜜出道时设计师仍然是...
When Naomi came, designers were still, you know...
“这一季我们只会用一位黑人女孩” 那个年代是这个样子
"We only have one Black girl this season." It was that time.
“黑人女孩只会接到夏季的服装秀
"Black girls can only do shows in the summer.
黑人女孩只会穿亮色系的衣服”
Black girls can only wear the bright-colored clothes."
我对他们说 “如果你们不找她,我就不会来”
I said to them, "If you don't book her, you don't get me."
琳达和克莉丝蒂肯定是豁出去了
Linda and Christy absolutely put themselves on the line.
她们声援我、支持我
They stood by me, and they supported me.
这就是我继续下去的动力
And that's what kept me going.
每场了不起的秀都见得到我 穿上那些美丽的衣服
I would do all these great shows, wear all these beautiful dresses,
但到了拍广♥告♥的时候
but then it would come time for the advertising,
我就会被排除在外
and I would not be included.
那曾经让我很受伤
And that used to really hurt me.
有时候,他们用我只是为了安抚我
And then sometimes, I was booked just to appease me
或者让我觉得“好的,我们会用她”
or to make me think, "Okay, we're gonna use her."
接著我前往摄影棚,坐在那里
Then I'd go to the shoot and sit there
从9点到6点待了一整天 他们不让我上场
from nine till six all day and not be used.
那反而加强了我的决心
It made me more determined than ever.
我永远不要再受到这种待遇 永远不会被置于那种处境
Not to ever be treated that way, not to ever be put in that position again.
我们可以撑住一面墙 让克莉丝蒂靠著吗?
Can we hold a wall that Christy can lean against?
可以,没问题,黑或白? - 白的
Yeah, totally. Black or white? - White.
我们也得拍一张给卡文克莱
We also have to do a Calvin Klein.
坐在立方凳上吗?我或许坐在角落就好
With the cube, you mean? It could just be the corner, maybe.
好耶,或... - 她能靠著...
Yeah, or just like... - So she can lean...
靠著,对,我觉得...
Leaning. Yeah, I feel like...
克莉丝蒂,可以给我一个侧脸吗?
Christy, can we try profile a little?
像是...很好,漂亮,很有卡文克莱感
Like-- Yeah, beautiful. Calvin Klein vibe.
非常卡文克莱,经典
Very Calvin Klein. Classic.
我和卡文克莱合作33年了
I worked for Calvin Klein for 33 years.
我初次和卡文克莱碰面的时候 我大概17岁左右
I was probably 17 or so when I first met Calvin Klein
结识了这个品牌,走他们的秀等等
and met the brand, doing fashion shows and things.
我觉得它很显眼,甚至对一个青少女来说
You know, it stood out for me, I think even as a younger teenager,
那些广♥告♥
all the ads.
我知道卡文克莱的牛仔裤和香水
I knew Calvin Klein jeans and I knew Calvin Klein fragrances.
(迷恋,男用香水)
迷恋是件大事
Obsession was a big deal.
你想要做的是制♥造♥兴奋感
What you want to do is create excitement,
你想要大家注意到你的广♥告♥
you want people to notice your ads,
你的平面广♥告♥或电视广♥告♥
your print ads, or your commercials.
在热情的国度里,统治者是迷恋
In the kingdom of passion the ruler is obsession.
卡文克莱的迷恋
Calvin Klein's Obsession.
喔,那个味道
Oh, the smell of it.
“喔,那个味道”
"Ah, the smell of it."
(海尔鲁宾斯坦 《时尚泉》作家兼共同创办人)
现在,当你听到“那个味道”时
Now, when you hear, "Well, the smell of it,"
你的思绪会去到一个特定的地方
your mind goes right to a very specific place.
我对于社会有影响力
I have an effect on society.
我能够改变♥态♥度
I mean, I can change attitudes.
我能够让大家产生某种感觉
I can make people feel a certain way.
他在那个时候懂得如何利用工具
He understood how to use the tools at the time,
像是户外看板、杂♥志♥
You know, like, the billboards, the magazines,
用一种非常干净但充满争议的方式
to push his image in a very clean
来推广他的形象
but controversial way.
你想知道挡在 我和我的卡文之间的是什么吗?
You wanna know what comes between me and my Calvins?
什么都没有
Nothing.
(卡文克莱牛仔裤)
他总是希望一切都超级情♥色♥和性感
He always wanted everything to be super erotic and sexy,
大家全都睡在一起
and everybody sleeping with everybody.
然后出现了爱♥滋♥病
And then there was AIDS.
他们想要放松
And they just wanted to chill
他们想要让一切冷静下来
and they wanted to calm everything down.
所以,他推出了这支叫做永恒的香水
So, he had this perfume called Eternity.
主题是关于家人
Which was about family.
他签下克莉丝蒂做为永恒的代言人
And he signed up Christy as the face of Eternity.
我留下了很多关于 我首次帮永恒拍摄宣传照的回忆
I have so many memories from that first Eternity campaign
是在玛莎葡萄园岛
in Martha's Vineyard.
摄影师是布鲁斯韦伯
The photos were shot by Bruce Weber.
大家的感情非常好,非常好玩
It was really bonding and super fun.
太阳西下,光线非常美丽
The sun's setting, the light's really beautiful.
看著这些女孩的照片,她们有一种渴望
Look at these girls' pictures, they have that desire.
(布鲁斯韦伯,摄影师)
渴望独当一面,成为重要人士
The desire to stand alone and be somebody.
布鲁斯韦伯
Bruce Weber,
他著实透过了他的镜头改变了摄影和时尚
he really changed photography and fashion through his cameras.
他让女孩从浓妆艳抹
He changed girls from that much more heavy makeup
变成较为自然的妆容
to the more natural girl
那很健康而且容光焕发
that was healthy and just glowed.
(葛蕾丝柯丁顿 前《Vogue》美国版创意总监)
那张合约让我一年赚到将近一百万美元
I made close to a million dollars a year on that contract.
我记得基于某种原因 我在晚上于某间律师事务所签下合约
I remember signing it, for some reason, at night at some law office
我的经纪人陪著我
with my agents.
我自己没有律师
I didn't have my own lawyer.
我一年只需要工作一百天
I only had to work, like, a hundred days a year,
而且工作量真的不大
which is not a lot of work, really,
当然啰,我不能再和别的品牌合作
and, of course, I couldn't work for anybody else,
我不能...甚至连专题照也不行
and I couldn't-- Not even editorials.
但永恒的宣传活动有某种能见度
But the Eternity campaign had a certain kind of visibility
所以,成了卡文克莱的代言人
and so representing Calvin Klein
在那个时候让我感觉像是人生高峰
felt very much like the pinnacle of what was happening at that time.
永恒,卡文克莱
Eternity, Calvin Klein.
露华浓全新化妆品,辛蒂...
Revlon new complexion make-up. Cindy--
(不掉色)
身为模特儿
As a model,
化妆品合约是张黄金门票
a cosmetic contract is the golden ticket.
仿佛突然之间工作有了保障
It's, like, job security all of a sudden.
妳不用等待...
You're not waiting for like,
“我可能会拿到那个广♥告♥,可能不会”
"Oh, I might get that campaign, I might not."
让我们欢迎迷人的辛蒂克劳馥
Please welcome, the lovely Cindy Crawford.
嗨,妳好吗?很高兴认识妳 谢谢妳愿意上节目
Hi, how are ya? Nice to see you. Thanks for being here.
她刚刚成了露华浓的代言模特儿
She has just now been named the spokesmodel for Revlon.
那代表什么?免费的口红?
What does that mean? Free lipstick?
对,希望还有更多的自♥由♥
Yeah. And that, that and hopefully more freedom.
更多的自♥由♥做什么?
More freedom to do?
任何我想做的事
Anything I want.
好事接连不断,我拍了对的广♥告♥
Things were really happening, I was doing the right campaigns.
让头发蓬松,炫耀你的发量
Flex your hair and show off your body.
然后,突然之间,在1988年
And then all of a sudden, in '88,
我被邀请拍摄《花♥花♥公♥子♥》
I was asked to do Playboy.
那个时候在我身边的每个人 都认为我不应该答应
Everyone in my life at the time thought I shouldn't do Playboy.
我的经纪公♥司♥认为那和我该接下的
My modeling agency didn't feel that that fit into,
工作类型不太搭调
you know, the type of jobs I should be doing.
我认为那个品牌仍然带有某种涵义
I think the brand still had a connotation to it
会吓跑一些人
that maybe scared some people off.
(《花♥花♥公♥子♥》)
我了解《花♥花♥公♥子♥》这个平台 和它的象征意义
I understood the platform of Playboy and what that symbolized.
对于当时的《Vogue》模特儿来说
It was definitely outside the normal trajectory
绝对算是偏离正常轨道
for a Vogue model at the time.