驾车看俄罗斯（2014）

这里被认为是
this was reckoned to be
整个地球上污染最严重的地区
the most polluted place on the entire planet.
我觉得现在看来污染也够严重的
It still looks pretty polluted to me.
卡拉巴什的炼铜厂
The copper plant here at Karabash
是典型的苏联旧工业时期遗产
is a typical legacy of old Soviet industry.
污染严重 效率低下
It is polluting and inefficient.
当时这样的战略性工业工厂
Back then, strategic industrial plants like this
都与世隔绝
were hidden from the world.
令人吃惊的是 他们竟然同意我们进去了
And astonishingly, they've agreed to let us in!
BBC电视台
BBC?
该戴上口罩了
戴上口罩
Put the mask on. Ah.
这是熔炉
Smelter.
-炼铜炉 -这是一个熔炉
- Copper smelter. - This is the smelter.
真的好臭
It really stinks!
对俄♥罗♥斯♥的资源导向型经济来说
Plants like this are still crucial
这类工厂仍然扮演着关键角色
to Russia's resource-based economy.
天呐
Whoa!
如今 为了把它们推销到全球市场
And today, in order to sell into world markets,
卡拉巴什的熔炼流程急需现代化
operations like the Karabash smelter need to modernise
说直白点 就是净化生产过程
and quite literally clean up their act.
但据工厂的总经理亚历山大·戈洛夫解释
But it's a slow process, as the plant's managing director
这将是个缓慢的过程
Aleksandr Golov explained.
看看这座工厂
I mean, looking at the plant,
我觉得它仍旧非常...
it still looks pretty...
显得比较简陋
kind of pretty rough and ready.
有毒物质的排放量已经减少很多了
如今周边环境已经开始再生和修复
这是自然的复兴
亚历山大 你没开玩笑吧
Aleksandr, are you serious
这里已经开始自然再生了吗
there's a natural process of regeneration,
因为在我看来这里就像荒漠
because it looks like a desert?
你们拍摄的画面是以我们的工厂为背景的
其他方向就有森林了 而非荒漠
毋庸置疑 如今这类工厂的污染状况
Undoubtedly this factory is less polluting
比苏联时期减轻了许多
than it was in Soviet times,
但经历数十年遗留下来的污染物
but the legacy of decades of dirty production
需要很长时间才能完全治理
is going to take a long time to overcome.
我的任务是寻访俄♥罗♥斯♥的经济新前沿
As for me seeking out Russia's new economic frontier,
我就快到了
I'm nearly there.
我们马上就到了 最后几公里
We've nearly made it! The final few kilometres.
来个击掌 塞奇 摩尔曼斯克
Give me a high-five, Sergei. Murmansk!
从索契出发经过三周时间 约4800公里路程
After three weeks and nearly 3,000 miles from Sochi,
我终于看到了最终目的地
I'm finally in sight of my ultimate destination -
北极圈内的城市 摩尔曼斯克
the Arctic city of Murmansk.
索契
塔甘罗格
莫斯科
圣彼得堡
摩尔曼斯克
这个港口曾经是俄♥罗♥斯♥北方舰队的驻地
This port previously held strategic importance
具有重要的战略地位
as home to the Russian Northern Fleet,
但如今它正成为俄♥罗♥斯♥
but today it's becoming Russia's base
探索和开采更多自然资源的基地
to explore and exploit yet more natural resources.
这是最关键的因素
And this is what it's about.
摩尔曼斯克的地理位置就是关键所在
The location of this city, Murmansk, is crucial,
未来几个月里 6000吨♥的机械
because in a few months' time 6,000 tonnes of metal
将被运出海 开启搜索油气资源的旅程
will be taken from here out to sea to begin the search for gas and oil
这就是俄♥罗♥斯♥的下一个经济前沿
Russian's next frontier.
在这个仓库里 俄♥罗♥斯♥人正在进行
In this warehouse, the Russians are planning
他们颇受争议的北冰洋开采计划
their controversial assault on the Arctic.
在挪威人的帮助下
With Norwegian help,
他们正在制♥造♥钻井平台
these men are building drilling platforms
用以开采油气资源
for the oil and gas industry.
好大的烟雾 伊安 而且很热 是吧
Oh, it's so atmospheric in here, Jan! It's hot, isn't it?
是的 充满金属的气味
Yes, it's very metallic. Yeah.
外面某个地方蕴藏着石油和天然气
The oil and the gas that's out there, somewhere,
那些资源对挪威和俄♥罗♥斯♥意味着什么呢
what do those resources mean for Norway, for Russia?
对俄♥罗♥斯♥意义重大 因为它们储量庞大
For Russia it means a lot, because it's big resources
伊安·奥特·伦德
莱茵斯坦油业经理
可供应多年 满足约30年至40年
and it's going to last for many, many years, 30 or 40 years.
当然人们非常担心
Of course, people are very concerned about
开采工作会给这里的环境造成冲击
the impact all this drilling will have on the environment here.
我们是不是应该去别的地方寻找能源呢
Should we not be looking elsewhere for our energy?
我认为我们在未来很多年之内
In my opinion we need this oil and gas
需要这些油气资源
for many, many years
因为我们没有
because we don't have
足够的替代能源 因此...
enough of this alternative energy, so that...
只要人们需要石油
As long as people need oil,
人们就会继续开采它 是吗
I guess people will keep drilling for it?
-正是如此 -是的
- That's how it is, yes. - Yeah. Yeah.
未来几年内
In the coming years,
北冰洋会为俄♥罗♥斯♥的经济
the Arctic could provide yet another boost
带来新一轮动力
to Russia's economy
而摩尔曼斯克本身
and Murmansk itself could be
会被推到21世纪新一轮采油潮的浪尖
on the brink of a new 21st century oil rush.
过去三周 我拜访了白手起家的地方企业家
Over the past three weeks, I've met local entrepreneurs starting businesses
以及对共♥产♥主义知之甚少的
and a whole new generation of Russians
新一代俄♥罗♥斯♥人
who have never known Communism.
我见到了未被开♥发♥的新财富所带来的希望
I've seen the promise of new, untapped wealth
见到了一个充满潜力的国家
and I've seen a country bursting with potential.
但对我而言
For me, though,
这次史诗般的自驾之旅已接近尾声
it's the end of my epic road trip.
结束了 我来到了旅程的尽头
That's it, I've gone as far as my road will take me
站在这里 我仿佛来到了一个新世界
and I've stopped here in what feels like a completely different world.
我完成这一路旅程
I've completed my leg of the journey,
很漫长的旅程
which was a very long journey,
但跟俄♥罗♥斯♥辽阔的版图相比 却很渺小
but in the grand scheme of this vast country, it was tiny.
远方是北冰洋和它丰富的油气资源所在
Out in that direction is the Arctic and its wealth of gas and oil
也是俄♥罗♥斯♥经济未来的潜力所在
and potentially the future of Russia's economy.
北冰洋的石油代表着俄♥罗♥斯♥的未来
Arctic oil might represent Russia's future,
但我要去的地方 将会勾起我们
but I'm travelling to a place that's a powerful reminder
对俄♥罗♥斯♥过去的无限回忆
that Russia's past is still very much alive.
我有点紧张 因为我们正驶向
I'm a bit nervous because we're headed towards a place
一个直到最近才在地图上标示出来的地方
that until recently, fairly recently, wasn't even... wasn't even on the maps.
它是众多隐秘城市中的一部分
It's one of the a network of closed cities
这些城市曾遍布俄♥罗♥斯♥
that used to... used to be across Russia
而这座城市是非常神秘 地位敏感
and this one was so secret and so sensitive
至今仍然对外封闭
that it remains closed to this day.
我现在正驶向奥焦尔斯克镇
I'm heading to the town of Ozyorsk.
几年前 外人只知道它的代号♥
Until a few years ago it was known only by its codename,
车里雅宾斯克65
Chelyabinsk-65.
只有手持有效证件的居民才允许进内
Only residents with the correct papers can get in.
外国人是禁止入内的
Foreigners like me are banned
因为这里曾是苏联原子武器计划的中枢
because this town was the heart of the Soviet atomic weapons programme.
这里就是检查点了
And here is the checkpoint.
也许我要下车去看一下
I might just get out and have a little look.
我要小心行事
I've got to be careful what I do
因为别人告诉我
because what I've been told is that if I...
如果我接近那些警卫
if I approach the guards
我有一半的可能性会被拘留
there's a 50/50 chance that they'll take me into custody.
也许要把我关上好几天才放出来
Then it could be days before they let me out.
在这里晃太久也许也不太好
Probably not wise to hang around too long.
我觉得逃过了一劫
I think I got away with that.
这里被防护得非常缜密的原因
The reason for such security
只有从河的对面才看得到
is only visible from across the lake.
秘密建造的马亚克核反应堆
The Mayak nuclear plant, built in total secrecy,
如今仍在运行着
is still in operation today.
虽然我无法入内一探究竟
While I can't go in,
但我和一名当地居民纳迪亚·库塔波娃
I've arranged to meet a local resident,
约定见面
Nadezhda Kutepova,
她毕生居住在这个小镇
who's lived in Chelyabinsk-65 all her life.
为什么他们封锁了这座城市
So what is the reason why they wanted the city to be closed,
在反应堆发生了什么
and what happens at the plant?
它建造于1948年
It was built in 1948
是苏联的第一颗原♥子♥弹♥的发源地