驾车看俄罗斯（2014）

Obviously I don't speak Russian but it's fairly clear
他们是要我们离开墓地
that he's telling us we have to leave the cemetery.
拍摄纪念碑会惹麻烦
That there was a issue with filming them.
我完全不懂你在说什么
如今的叶卡捷琳堡是个更平静的地方
Today, Yekaterinburg is a calmer place,
但骨子里仍有强烈的独♥立♥精神
but it still exerts a strongly independent spirit.
这里是叶卡捷琳堡市政厅
This place is the Yekaterinburg Town Hall.
而且我将有幸采访这里的市长
And with any luck, I've got an interview with the mayor!
好像摄像师允许进入
So the cameraman's allowed in
但我似乎得呆在外面
but I apparently have to stay out here.
去年 当地一位叫做叶夫根尼·罗伊兹曼的
Last year, an independent candidate,
无党派候选人
local man Yevgeny Roizman,
意外的战胜了
won a surprise victory
弗拉基米尔·普♥京♥的俄♥罗♥斯♥统一♥党♥
over Vladimir Putin's United Russia.
叶夫根尼 我是来自BBC的贾斯汀
Yevgeny, Justin from the BBC.
非常感谢你能接见我
Thank you very much for seeing me.
过去的几年中他不断的被问到
Over the past years he's continually being asked
他是否和九十年代的犯罪黑帮有关系
if he had links with the criminal gangs of the '90s,
这是他极力否认的一点
something he has always vigorously denied.
我私底下认识其中的很多人
我是在瓦勒马斯出生并且长大的
仅仅因为某个人不畏惧那些暴徒
不能就认定他们是一伙的 你明白吗
罗伊兹曼是当地人的英雄
Roizman is something of a local hero.
没有其他城市敢在选举上与首都意见对立
Few other cities have dared to vote against Moscow's wishes.
您认为您此次竞选成功是否意味着
To what extent do you think your victory kind of suggests
政♥府♥可以变得更加民♥主♥
that there is a possibility of a more kind of democratic form of government?
人们是这么认为的
我必须承认 我的当选是政♥府♥默许的
否则就算得票数第一也不可能赢得选举
莫斯科在当时并没有介入
他们允许我胜选
罗伊兹曼被视作俄♥罗♥斯♥新民♥主♥政♥权♥下
Roizman has been hailed as an independent voice
一种独♥立♥的声音
in a new democratic Russia.
不过这对于俄♥罗♥斯♥其他城市来说
But whether this really is the beginning of
是否真的是一个更加民♥主♥的时代的开端
a more democratic era for the rest of Russia
我们还得拭目以待
very much remains to be seen.
回到奢华的装甲车上 我继续向北
Back in my luxury oligarch tank, I'm still heading north,
一路向北
a long way north.
北极圈在哪 你看一下
Where is the Arctic Circle? Have a look on...
我不知道
I don't know.
-你不知道吗 -我不知道
- You don't know? - I don't know.
好吧 那怎么才能找到北极圈标志
Well, how are we gonna find it?
路上就能看见
We can see from the road.
我们得注意看外面的路牌
We just have to keep an eye out for a sign?
距离彼得罗扎沃茨克450公里的地方
450 miles from Petrozavodsk,
我将要去到波利亚尔内耶佐里
I was aiming to reach Polyarnye Zori
并且去见一些极北地区的企业家
and some very northern entrepreneurs.
彼得罗扎沃茨克
彼得罗扎沃茨克
北极圈
波利亚尔内耶佐里
但首先我们得穿越北极圈
But first we had to cross the Arctic Circle.
我非常高兴 塞奇
I'm excited, Sergei.
这将是我这辈子到过的最北边的地方了
This is gonna be the furthest north I've ever been in my life.
这么远...我兴奋极了 你知道吗
So far... I'm excited. Me. Excited.
-兴奋 -可不是嘛
- Excited... - Oh, yeah.
-因为我们要去到北极圈了 -开心
-Because we're going to the Arctic Circle. - Excited.
开心 我很开心
Excited. I am excited.
你看 我这么开心 因为
Look, excited, happy, because...
我要去北极圈啦 穿越北极圈
Ah. ..I'm going to the Arctic Circle, crossing the Arctic Circle.
我明白了
OK, I get.
我将要去到我人生中最北面的地方
I'm going further north than I've ever been in my life.
那是我到过最最最北的地方
The north, northernmost point I've ever been, yes?
-对 我也是 -你也是吗
- Yes, yes, me too. - You too?
你的兴奋太俄式了 懒洋洋的
Yes. I think you're Russian excited, laid back.
那里就是了 塞奇 北极圈
There it is, Sergei, the Arctic Circle!
这真是典型的俄♥国♥人反应
That's a Russian reaction.
北
极
圈
最终 深入到冰冷的郊区之后
At last, deep within the icy countryside
我抵达了我的目的地
I arrive at my destination -
用着现代的方法经营着传统的事业
a very modern take on a very traditional business.
这里有座热气腾腾湖并且里面充满了一种
Here was a steaming lake packed with fish that are normally
平常只在千里之外的南方才有的鱼
only found in waters thousands of miles to the south.
-先生您好 -你好
- Hello, sir! - Hello.
-安妮塔 -塞奇
- Anita. - Sergei.
很高兴见到你 塞奇
Pleased to meet you, Sergei.
我的天啊 这条鱼可真大
Oh, my Lord, that is one big fish.
我能看到水面在冒蒸汽 塞奇
I can see it steaming, Sergei.
这太神奇了
It's very mysterious.
这里水有多热
How warm is this water?
大概九或十
Nine, ten.
-有十摄氏度吗 -是的
- Ten degrees Centigrade? - Yeah.
非常暖和了 我们看到那边山上还积着雪
Pretty warm cos we've got snow on the mountains up there
而且你看这雾气
and you can see the fog.
原来是因为附近有一个当地的核电站
It turns out that there's a local nuclear power station nearby,
我们被严格禁止去那里拍摄
strictly off limits for our cameras.
这里水很热的原因是它被用来冷却反应堆
The water here is so warm because it's used to cool the reactors.
如果核电站没有启动的话
How cold would this water be
这里水温将会多低
if the power station wasn't here warming it up?
-无 -零吗 那就是零下咯
- Nil. - Zero to minus?
俄♥罗♥斯♥新一代企业家精神的另一种标志
It's another sign of Russia's new entrepreneurial spirit -
就是抓住任何地方的任何机会
taking advantage of any opportunity anywhere.
这个渔场养殖着鲟鱼
This fish farm breeds sturgeon,
一种珍贵的俄♥罗♥斯♥佳肴的来源
the source of a valuable Russian delicacy
鱼子酱
caviar.
食用这里的鱼出产的鱼子酱是否安全
Is it safe to eat the caviar from these fish?
这些鱼都是正常生长
我们每月都会进行检查
质量没有问题
鱼子是怎么取出来的
Where does the caviar come from?
看 这里有个小洞
Look. Oh, there's that little hole, look.
在这里
看 他们会将鱼子挤出来
There we go. And they milk it.
所以你只要给鲟鱼按♥摩♥ 鱼子酱就出来了
So you massage the sturgeon and out comes the caviar.
随着对于鱼子酱这类奢侈品需求的增加
With demand for luxury goods like caviar increasing,
渔场主赚了不少钱并且计划扩张规模
the owners of the farm are doing well and are planning to expand.
核能鱼子酱
Nuclear caviar.
闻起来真棒 我能开动吗
Mmm, it smells great. It smells good. Shall we?
你是怎么吃的 让我们先尝一小口
How do you go for it? Shall we just taste a bit?
太美味了
It's delicious.
他们很小
They're like tiny,
有点像咸的小葡萄在我嘴中爆开
little grapes of saltiness just bursting in my mouth.
这就是他们的包装
And that's how they package it.
纳塔莉亚 这一罐多少钱
Natalya, how much would this cost? How much?
50美金
$50.
50美金 这么一点大概30英磅[300人♥民♥币]
$50. About 30 pounds for that.
你知道吗 它值这个价因为太好吃了
And you know what, it's worth it because that is yummy.
真棒
Oh, yes, lovely!
我们终于到了 卡拉巴什
At last here we are, Karabash.
我觉得我好像永远都在开车
Ah, I feel like I've been driving forever!
当安妮塔前往探索俄♥罗♥斯♥新的经济前沿时
As Anita powers her way towards Russia's new economic frontier,
我这辆可靠的共♥产♥吉普还在继续行驶
my trusty Communist Jeep is still trundling on
穿过广袤的传统俄♥罗♥斯♥
through the vastness of old Russia -
这个资源丰富的中心地带
the resource-rich heartland
一直在推动着俄♥罗♥斯♥的经济发展
that has always fuelled so much of Russia's economy.
从叶卡捷琳堡到卡拉巴什一共140公里
140 miles has taken me from Yekaterinburg to Karabash -
那里是俄♥罗♥斯♥众多环境严酷的工业城镇之一
one of Russia's many grim industrial towns.
叶卡捷琳堡
卡拉巴什
天呐 太庞大了
Whoa! These are enormous!
这些肯定就是矿渣堆
Must be the slag heaps.
俄♥罗♥斯♥有着开采和处理
Russia has long mined and processed
其丰富的自然资源的悠久历史
its abundant natural resources.
此地区拥有丰富的石油 煤炭 铁矿
This area of the country is blessed with oil, coal and iron,
以及钻石和黄金资源
as well as diamonds and gold.
但这种富裕以牺牲俄♥罗♥斯♥环境为代价
But the riches have come at a price to Russia's environment.
这里就像在上演《疯狂麦克斯》
This is like Mad Max.
仿佛末日后一般的景象
It's, like, post-apocalyptic.
曾几何时
At one time,