誓不低头（2022）

肉眼看来
To the naked eye,
一套西装由两部分组成：
a suit appears to consist of two parts:
上衣和裤子
a jacket and trousers.
这两部分各自看上去都是一个整体
But those two seemingly solid parts
但其实由四种面料组成
are composed of four different fabrics.
棉、丝、马海毛和羊毛
Cotton, silk, mohair and wool.
这四种面料被剪裁成38块独♥立♥的布料
And those four fabrics are cut into 38 separate pieces.
对这些布料进行测量、塑形和拼接
The process of sizing, forming, conjoining those pieces
需要至少228道工序
requires no fewer than 228 steps.
第一步就是测量
So the first step is measurement.
但“测量”可不是 拿尺子比划比划那么简单
But "measurement" doesn'’t mean, uh, just reaching for your tape,
“这里多长 那里多长”
"So many inches here, so many inches there."
不是的
No, no, no.
如果你不知道这是为谁而做的
You cannot make something good
就绝对不可能做出好东西
until you understand who you'’re making it for.
所有的衣服都有自己的故事
All clothing says something.
有很多先生走进我的店里 吹嘘自己
I'’ve had gentlemen walk into my shop and boast,
“我根本不在乎自己穿什么衣服”
"Oh, I don'’t care about what I wear."
就算这是真的 这本身不也说明了一些东西吗？
And assuming that'’s true, doesn'’t that say something, too?
那么 你的客户是谁？
So, who is your customer?
你想怎么讲关于他的故事？
And what are you trying to say about him?
一个人走进店里 你能观察出什么？
A man walks through your door, what about him can you observe?
早上好
Good morning.
他胆小吗？
Is he timid,
像豆芽菜一样弯腰驼背？
hunched over like a midday clock?
还是自信满满
Or does he stand with confidence,
站得跟松树一样笔直？
spine at six and twelve?
这个人是不是热情张扬
Is this a man of springtime pastel,
渴望成为众人的焦点？
clamoring to be noticed?
还是沉闷低调
Or is this a man of gray and brown,
融入默默无闻的人群中？
blending into the hurried crowd?
这个人对自己的现状满意吗？
Is this a man comfortable in his station?
还是渴望更伟大的成就？
Or does he pine for grander things?
这个男人想成为什么人？
And who would this man like to be?
他内心深处又是什么人？
And who is he underneath?
想要开始测量...
Take your measure...
…要先真正理解他是谁…
...and when you understand who he is...
博伊尔先生
Mr. Boyle.
...然后你就可以开始了
...then you'’re ready to begin.
咚咚咚
Knock, knock.
生意怎么样 英国人？
- Hmm. - How'’s business, English?
晚上好 先生们
Evening, sirs.
-哇 这件不错 -嗯
- Oh, wow. It'’s a nice one. - Mm-hmm.
真不错
Yeah, that'’s really nice.
是给我爸做的吗？
You making that for my pops?
这件不是
Not this one.
这么好的衣服居然是给别人做的？ 谁啊？
You'’re making those fine threads for somebody else? Who?
里奇少爷 我不能透露 我的先生们的信息
Master Richie, you know I can'’t talk about my gentlemen.
咱们就这关系？“你的先生们”？
Huh. Is that what we are? Your gentlemen.
哇 你的英国人做派可真足
Whoa, get a load of English.
嘴巴紧得很
Keeping his lips shut tight.
-你父亲来过这里 -是吗？
-Your father was here. -Oh, yeah?
昨天来的
Uh... yesterday.
他说你的生意
He said your business
正在进行某种扩张
is undergoing some manner of expansion.
他让我准备帮你做一套新西装 用来庆祝
He said I should plan on making you a new suit to celebrate.
弗朗西斯 怎么样？ 来都来了 做套新西装吧？
Francis, what do you think? New threads? Long as we'’re here?
-今晚不行 -别扫兴啊 反正有时间
-Not tonight. -Hey, come on. We got time.
今晚没有
Not tonight.
妈的
Oh, shit.
“套装”那里来的？
Is that from the Outfit?
英国人 帮我个忙
English, do me a favor.
你到前面去一下
Why don'’t you, uh, go up front,
帮我看看你秘书那里的情况 好吗？
check on your secretary for me, all right?
失陪了 先生们
Will you excuse me, gentlemen.
就是“套装” 哥们儿
It'’s the Outfit, man.
这就是他的黄铜戒指
It'’s his brass ring right here.
打开吧 看看写了什么
Right, go ahead, open it up. See what it says.
有信吗？
Any mail?
你想谈谈吗？
Do you want to talk about it?
谈信？
The mail?
谈他们把你踢出来了
That they gave you the boot.
盒子里装的是什么？
What'’s in the box?
这是我的东西
That one'’s mine.
拿出来看看吧
Let'’s have a look.
好啊
Okay.
等等 让我猜猜
No, no, let me guess.
比萨斜塔
Uh, the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
不是
Mm-mm.
我一直不理解那东西有什么意思
I'’ve never understood the appeal.
它就是…有点儿斜
All it does is lean.
艾菲尔铁塔？
The Eiffel Tower?
我已经有了
I already have that.
好吧 那我放弃
Well, then I give up.
这是什么？
What is that?
我给你看看
I'’ll show you.
哦
Ah-ha.
感觉就像回到了老家
I feel at home again.
很漂亮吧？
Isn'’t it beautiful?
这就是个钟
It'’s a clock.
不像某人 我可从没亲眼见过它
Unlike some of us, I'’ve never seen it in person.
就算亲眼见了 也只是个钟
In person, it'’s still a clock.
它可是在泰晤士河畔
On the banks of the Thames.
-你在芝加哥见过钟吗？ -当然了 但是…
-You'’ve seen clocks in Chicago? -Yes, of course, but...
跟伦敦的这个没什么区别
They look startlingly similar in London.
好吧
Okay.
我永远都不会理解你的
I will never understand you.
你永远也不会成为一个上了年纪的
Well, you will never be a-a dashing gentleman
潇洒绅士
of a certain age.
你去过世界各地
You'’ve been all over the world.
你可以在任何你喜欢的地方开店
You could have a shop anywhere you like.
结果你却来了这里
And yet you'’re here.
这里怎么了？
What'’s wrong with here?
我能想到好几个麻烦
I can think of a few things.
亲爱的 有些麻烦在哪里都有
Some things one finds everywhere, dear.
所以我在哪里并不重要
So it doesn'’t terribly much matter where I am.
我有我的剪刀
I have me shears.
一个人除了剪刀还需要什么？
What else does a man need besides his shears?
我有你
And I have you.
不会永远都有的
Not forever.
是啊
Ah, yes.
大本钟还在等你呢
Ben awaits.
不管怎样...
One way or another...
...我都要离开这里
...I'’m getting out of here.
去伦敦？
To London?
去伦敦
To London.
还有马德里
And Madrid.
还有巴塞罗那
-And Barcelona. -Mm.
还有摩洛哥
And Morocco.
还要去巴黎
And to Paris.
你知道什么能帮我更快地实现梦想吗？
You know what'’d make it happen a lot sooner?
-地图？ -加薪 拜托了
-A map? -A raise. Please.
我得回去看看里奇少爷需不需要我帮忙
I best go see if Master Richie needs me.
啊
Ah.
说到鬼 鬼就来了
Speak of the devils.
你怎么回事儿？
What'’s that now?
先生们 这只是一句俗语
Just an expression, sirs.
请别介意
Excuse me.
我没有冒犯二位的意思
I meant no offense.
明天见
See you tomorrow.