拉斯维加斯（2005）（上）

拉斯维加斯是个情绪得到舒缓的地方
MAN: Las Vegas is the place where the steam gets let off.
来这里就象度假
It's like a vacation.
人们来这里感觉年轻了许多
People can come here and feel they're living a naughtier life.
要酒吗?
Cocktails?
拉斯维加斯把时间抛在脑后
MAN: Las Vegas is clockless,
也就是说 它会打乱你整个节奏
and in that sense,it does throw your whole rhythm off.
我认为那里好像是
I think that that induces
不知方位 轻松失重
a kind of spacelessness and weightlessness
四处游荡
and a placelessness
所以说拉斯维加斯是与世隔绝的
so that Las Vegas becomes a world into itself.
哇噻!
Yahoo!
我说 这里毕竟是沙漠里的一座城市
MAN: I mean,this is after all a city in the desert,
当然啦 拉斯维加斯会说
so Las Vegas suggests,of course,
世界的其它地方都是不毛之地
that the whole rest of the world is the desert
而自己却是绿洲
and it is the oasis.
我们不希望拉斯维加斯有什么去打扰游客
WOMAN: We don't want anything in Las Vegas that upsets the tourists
如果有什么不到位的地方
and if it's a touch of reality that is not pretty,
我们会千方百计去消除
then we want to get rid of it.
在这里 你不该有什么不切实际的想法
You don't want to come in contact with reality when you're here for fantasy.
这里没有深刻反省的文化
MAN: It's not a deeply introspective culture.
这里没有内陆的生活方式
It's not about the interior life.
寻找3-5-5-7...
Paging 3-5-5-7...
思想与行为是一致的
MAN ( continues ): There is no gap between the thought and the act.
不像你所认为的
It isn't like you say,
啊 我该这么做 该这么做吗?
"Oh,should I do this,should I do this?"
就象..(模仿闪电)
It's like...( imitates lightning strike )
要我带你们走出去吗?
Am I going to walk you down the aisle and give you away?
所以说 犹豫不决确实不是
MAN ( continues ): So that kind of hesitation and contemplation is not
这种文化的一部分
really a part of this culture.
或许说拉斯维加斯有些神秘的东西
WOMAN: Maybe there's some mystical thing about Las Vegas.
你愿意想人可以控制与支配
You know,you'd like to think that man governs and dominates
所有能让历史展开的决定
all the decisions that make history unfold.
但是显然人们必须有一个恰当的地方
But clearly people must have been in the right place
恰当的时候
at the right time.
有些人会说 这只是天性
Now,some could say it's just nature.
我说那是运气
I say it's luck.
PBS 美国印象:拉斯维加斯.一段离经叛道的历史(上）
第一部分
罪恶之城
拉斯维加斯除了脱衣舞外 还有很多的东西
WOMAN: There's so much more to Vegas than the Strip.
一旦你来到这里 看到他们另外的一切
And once you get here and see what else they have,
你就不会想去看脱衣舞了
you won't even come to the Strip.
客房♥服务
Housekeeping.
(敲门)
( knocks at door )
(钥匙声)
( keys jingle )
( 房♥门打开 )有人吗
( door unlocks ) Hello.
以前我生活在加利福尼亚
WOMAN: Well,when I lived in California,
没有什么机会
I didn't have that many opportunities,
但是这里 他们建起了这么多的酒店
but here they got so many hotels coming up,
店铺每天都营业
stores opening up every day.
所以你找份活干实在是很容易的
So you can get a job real easy.
可能不是你想干的活
It might not be the job you want
但毕竟是份工作 直到你找到理想的工作
but it'll be a job until you get the job you want.
我的哥哥已经搬到拉斯维加斯了
My brother moved here to Las Vegas,
所以我来这里看他时
so I've been coming here to visit him
他对我说 你应该到这里来
and he said,"You should come up here.
这里找房♥子什么的 都不难
It's easy to get a house up here and stuff."
一旦你提出申请 你就能得到一间全新的房♥子
When you apply for it,you can move into a brand-new house.
他们按照你的要求建房♥
They build it the way you want--
知道吗 是你要他们怎么建的
you know,the way you want them to.
不用押金
No money down.
不要一分钱
Not a penny.
现在 房♥子属于我的了!
Now,that was for me!
( 欢笑 )
( laughs )
我已经为房♥子作好准备了
I was ready for that.
所以 真的不错
So it's...it's real nice.
有两个房♥间 两个卫生间
It's a two-bedroom,two-bathroom.
但是眼下 我在考虑换套大一点的房♥子
But right now I'm thinking about getting a bigger house,
因为我有三个孙女
because I have three granddaughters now.
所以我们要大点的房♥子
So we're going to get a bigger place.
就象其它城镇一样
It's just like any other town.
这里有俱乐部 动物园..
It has clubs,zoos...
你不会想到拉斯维加斯有动物园吧 但他们真的建了动物园
You wouldn't think Vegas would have a zoo,but they got a zoo.
我们从来没有开车兜风过
We never drove around.
我们一到拉斯维加斯 就直接来林荫大道
When we come to Vegas,we come straight down the boulevard
我们下榻在有脱衣舞的...
and we stayed on the Strip...
我一直就没出门!
and I never got out!
但是你要知道 一旦你赌上了 就要输钱的
But,you know,once you gamble and lose your money,
就要回老家的
you go home.
还用问留下是为了什么吗?
What else to stay for?
然而这里是个实实在在的城市
But it's a real town.
这的确是我平生最好的一次搬家
This is indeed the best move I ever made.
以前我也不是住在加利福尼亚的
I wasn't established in California.
我是1970年搬到那里的
I went there in 1970.
我一直都没买♥♥♥房♥♥子 我一直都没有属于自己的东西
I never bought a house; I never owned anything.
而当你步入40岁后
And when you get in your 40s,
你就必须要有属于自己的东西了 对吧
you have to own something,you know.
所以我一到这里 就找到了一份工作
So soon as I moved here,I got my jobs,
买♥♥了一辆新车 买♥♥了一辆新的卡车 买♥♥了一套新房♥子
got a new car,got a new truck,got a new house...
我到这里才六年
And I've only been here six years.
我发了
I cleaned up.
(欢笑)
( chuckles )
我想控制这个地方的是... 它处在边缘
MAN: I think the hold of this place is...it's on the edge.
它需要成为
And it needs to be.
这地方一直就是你打开窗户
It's always been a place where you look out of your windows
就能看到太阳升起在沙漠上
and see the sun rise or set on the desert
那里可是有各种各样的蛇出没
and know that there are snakes and serpents out there.
它是那样的神圣
It's biblical in that way,
你能想象如果这里没有了这一切的建设
and if you can imagine the place devoid of all construction,
你马上就会说
you would quickly say,
啊 地球上谁会来这种地方?
"Well,who on Earth would have come here?"
因为这里不是建设城市的合适的地方
Because it's not a sensible place to build a city,
我想还是感觉到
and I think there is still that feeling of...
那种疯狂的超现实的成就克服了大自然的条件
kind of loony surreal triumph over the elements.
听说过吗 '可恶的自然条件
You know,"Damn those elements.
我们能够战胜它们'
We can beat them."
更荒芜的地区几乎是想象不出来的
NARRATOR: A more godforsaken locale could scarcely have been imagined.
然而在1930年 大萧条期间
But in 1930,in the midst of the Great Depression,
南内华达州的布拉克峡谷被许多美国人
southern Nevada's Black Canyon looked to many Americans
看作天堂
like paradise.
仅仅在6个月里
In just six months,
差不多有4.2万人蜂拥而至 到这荒凉的地方来
some 42,000 men descended on that desolate spot,
拼命抢5000个建筑工作中的一个
desperate to land one of the 5,000 construction jobs
那是建巨石大坝 也叫胡佛大坝
on the Boulder Dam,also known as Hoover Dam,
大规模的工程项目
a massive engineering project
是要利用强大的科罗拉多河
that would harness the mighty Colorado River
为整个西南部的六个州造福
for the benefit of a half dozen states throughout the Southwest.
(爆破)
( explosion )
在长达四年半之久的时间里
For four and a half long years,
大坝工人 白天
the dam workers would spend their days
在坚硬的石墙之间累死累活地干活
slaving between walls of stubborn hard rock
墙上碰上去实在是滚烫
that was literally too hot to be touched,
晚上 他们则被关在博尔德市里
and their nights penned up in Boulder City,
那是一个有些房♥子安顿的联邦保留地
a federal reservation with few of the comforts of home
一切乡规都是一样的:
and all of the same hometown rules:
不准赌博 不准卖♥♥淫 绝对不准饮酒
no gambling,no prostitution and absolutely no liquor.
他们生活就是等着发薪水
They lived for payday.
由于兜里有了钱
With money in their pockets,
一点火苗就能炸飞博尔德市
they blew out of Boulder City as if it were on fire
他们直奔一个尘土飞扬的小镇
and headed straight for a dusty little town
它在莫哈韦沙漠的中间 叫做拉斯维加斯
in the middle of the Mojave called Las Vegas.
这里 沿着两个街区长的弗里蒙特街