美国铁路之旅（2016）

我跨过了大西洋 去乘坐美国火车
I have crossed the Atlantic to ride the railroads of America
带着我全新的旅伴
with a new travelling companion.
1879年出版的阿普顿综合指南
Published in 1879, my Appletons' General Guide
将带领我走向美♥利♥坚♥一切新颖
will steer me to everything that's novel,
美丽
beautiful,
难忘
memorable
或者奇妙的事物
or curious in the United States.
阿门
Amen!
当我穿过这片大♥陆♥时 我将掀开美国镀金时代的面纱
As I cross the continent, I'll discover America's Gilded Age,
当权贵大亨们开启了铁路发展之春
when powerful tycoons launched a railway boom
将整个国度连在了一起
that tied the nation together
同时也刻画出她作为超级大国的未来
and carved out its future as a superpower.
我的旅程将继续向南 前往华盛顿特区
My journey continues south to Washington, DC
世界上最强大的国家
the centre of political
的政♥治♥权力中心
power in the world's most powerful country.
建立在一个妥协之上的华盛顿诞生在一片未经开垦的土壤之上
Founded on a compromise, built on a greenfield site,
而英国点燃了这块土地
torched by the British.
而后它浴火重生
It rose from the ashes to
成为一个拥有卓越公共建筑
become a capital of fine public architecture,
纪念碑和纪念馆的首都
monuments and memorials
于此城市 一位分♥裂♥了美国
and the city where the president who divided America,
却挽救了联邦的总统
but saved the Union,
碰见了自己戏剧性的死亡
met a theatrical death.
我从美国独♥立♥的摇篮
I began this journey in Philadelphia -
费城开始这段旅程
the cradle of American independence -
一直去到美国内战战场葛底斯堡
continued to the American Civil War battlefield of Gettysburg
然后向南 去往马里兰州的巴尔的摩
and turned south to Baltimore in Maryland.
之后等待着我的是这个国家的首都
Ahead of me, lie both the capital of the nation
和弗吉尼亚州的首府 里士满
and the capital of the state of Virginia, Richmond.
我会在北美最古老的殖民地 詹姆斯敦 结束这段旅程
I'll finish in one of the oldest settlements in North America - Jamestown.
在今天这段行程中
'On this leg of my journey,
我将探索华盛顿特区
'I'll explore Washington, DC,
我能在那里搞点零花钱
where I'll pick up some spending money...'
这一捆得有八万美金
This bundle is 80,000.
我还从来没摸过这么多钱
I've never held anything like that much money in my life!
参观推♥翻♥过一位总统的新闻编辑室
'..visit the newsroom that toppled a president...'
它从一个非法入室事件开始发酵 最后牵扯出白宫
It went from this break-in all the way to the White House.
在此之前 我还将发现一个拯救了这个国家的男人是如何
'..before discovering how the man credited with saving the nation
悲剧性地走向了生命尽头
'tragically met his end.'
布斯当时就走在总统的身后
Booth was able to walk right behind the president
然后开了一枪 击中了他的左耳后方
and fired a shot that hit him right behind the left ear.
我正前往华盛顿
I'm approaching Washington,
跟随着一条阿普尔顿指南推荐的路线
following a recommended Appletons' route
沿着巴尔的摩和波拖马可河铁路
along what was the Baltimore and Potomac Railroad.
阿普尔顿指南中说 华盛顿景色迷人
According to Appletons', "Washington's site is admirable.
不寻常的海拔落差
"Consisting of an undulating
造就了有起伏的平原
plain diversified by irregular elevations,
这为各式各样的公共建筑
"which furnish advantageous positions
提供了极有利的地理位置
"for the various public buildings.
华盛顿的城市规划十分独特
"The plan of the city is unique
其规模也显示出其未来
and on a scale which shows that
成长为大都市的潜力
" it was expected that a vast metropolis would grow up there."
美国国父们预见了美国的伟大
The Founding Fathers foresaw the greatness of the United States
并计划建立一个首都 使它在规模 外观和声誉上
and planned a capital that would rival any European one
都和任何欧洲国家的首都媲美
in terms of scale, grandeur and prestige.
您已到达华盛顿联合车站
'You have arrived at Washington Union Station.
请小心脚下
'Please watch your step.'
在二十世纪初
At the beginning of the 20th century,
华盛顿特区制定了一个新的总体规划
a new master plan was developed for Washington, DC,
使这个城市变得更加美丽
to make the city even more beautiful
建立新联合车站是规划的一部分
and as part of that, a new Union Station.
它将宾夕法尼亚州铁路和
Bringing together in one place, the Pennsylvania
巴尔的摩和俄亥俄州的铁路
and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroads,
汇合在这富丽堂皇的建筑物之中
in a building of suitable magnificence.
你甚至会称赞它 无与伦比
Or, you might even say, "Over-the-topness".
尽管华盛顿于20世纪初被翻新
Despite the early 20th century face-lift,
拥有着一百年历史的它 仍是一个相对而言比较年轻的城市
at only 100 years old, Washington was a relatively young city.
自从独♥立♥于英国之后
Following independence from the British,
新组建完成的美国邦联
the newly formed nation of the United States
无法在首都政♥府♥选址问题上达成共识
couldn't agree on which metropolis should be the seat of government.
因此在1790年 一个专门作为首都而修建的城市成立了
So, a purpose-built capital was founded in 1790.
阴谋论者们说华盛顿的布局中
Conspiracy theorists say that the layout of Washington
隐藏着共济会的符号♥
contains hidden masonic symbols.
我是看不出什么
I can't see any,
但开国者中确有许多人是共济会成员
but many of the Founding Fathers were freemasons,
包括乔治 华盛顿
including George Washington.
为探寻这座城市的形成历程
To find out how this city came into being,
我正去往自♥由♥广场 与来自华盛顿历史学会的
I'm heading to Freedom Plaza to meet Jane Freundel Levey
简 弗罗因德尔 利维见面
of The Historical Society Of Washington.
- 你好 简 - 你好 - 很高兴见到你
- Hello, Jane. - Hello, - it's so nice to see you.
很高兴见到你
Very good to see you.
我看到有一张华盛顿地图已经在我们面前展开了
And I see we've got a map of Washington laid out before us.
- 确实 - 不如我们在宾夕法尼亚大道散步
- We do indeed. - Shall we stroll down Pennsylvania Avenue
- 一直走到白宫吧 - 我们就这么办
- towards the White House? - Let's do that.
最开始 为什么是华盛顿
In the beginning, why was Washington, DC,
被选为首都所在地
chosen as the place for the capital?
华盛顿是一个政♥治♥妥协后的选择
Washington was chosen as a political compromise.
我们拥有一个新的国家 但没有钱
We had a young nation, it had no money
所以我们发动了一场革命战争来筹款
and we had a revolutionary war to pay off.
大多数战役都发生在北方
The South were not so willing to pay off the debts of the North
所以南方不愿意为北方偿还债务
where most of the battles took place,
除非他们能获得一些回报
unless they got something in return.
他们的回报就是有机会将首都
And what they got in return was the opportunity for the capital
设立在当时的南方
to be in, what was considered then, the South.
这个创立性的妥协由赋予了
That founding compromise was achieved by the man
这个城市名字的男人促成
after whom the city is named -
也就是美国的第一任总统
the first president of the United States.
乔治 华盛顿认为美国的首都需要建在
George Washington saw that the nation's capital needed to be
一条能联♥系♥未来国家疆土的河流沿岸
on a river that would connect to what was going to be the nation.
换句话说 需要一条与西部相连的河流
In other words, a river that connected to the West
而波托马克河符合这个要求
and that's what the Potomac River did.
它与流往西部的俄亥俄河相连
It connected to the Ohio River which took us out to the West
从这之中 他看到了新帝国的崛起
and that's how he saw the new empire growing.
1791年 一块十平方英里的菱形土地
In 1791, a diamond of land, ten miles squared,
在弗吉尼亚州和马里兰州之间被划出来
was carved out of the states of Virginia and Maryland to become
成为了联邦首都和国家政♥府♥的所在地
the federal capital and the seat of the national government.
我们走到了宾夕法尼亚大道的尽头
We've ended our journey down Pennsylvania Avenue,
现在我们脚下的是白宫
we've arrived in the White House.
想要跟我一起进蓝厅吗
Would you join me in the Blue Room?
好啊 最爱它了 蓝厅啊 谢谢
Yes, my favourite, the Blue Room! Thank you.
阿普尔顿指南告诉我
Appletons' informs me,
公共建筑是华盛顿主要吸引眼球之处
"The public buildings are the chief attraction of Washington.
白宫 作为总统的官邸和办公室
"The White House, as the president's official residence,
代表美国联邦政♥府♥
"represents the executive branch of
的行政机构
"the United States Federal Government.
立法机构位于国会大厦
"The legislative branch of Congress is based at the Capitol
司法机构位于最高法♥院♥
"And the judiciary is housed in the Supreme Court Of Justice."
在阿普尔顿指南出版的时代 还有一个宏伟建筑
Around the time of my Appletons' Guide, another grand building
政♥治♥建设中 那就是美国国会图书馆
was being constructed - the Library Of Congress.
我已经迫不及待想去看看了
And I can't resist taking a look.
这里是为国会成员查询资料修建的
It was established as a resource for members of Congress.
后来 渐渐变为国家图书馆
Over the years, it has become the national library
任何在美国有登记版权并出版的书籍
and any book published under US copyright
此处均有收录
has to be deposited here.
它是现今世界最大的图书馆
It's now the largest library in the world.
华盛顿是联邦政♥府♥
Washington is home to the federal government
和各类政♥治♥游说团体及大使♥馆♥的所在地
and to lobbying groups and embassies.
很多国际组织的总部也设在这里
It hosts the headquarters of many international organisations
还有很多管理经济和发行货币的
and here, too, are the institutions that manage the economy
机构也在这里
and issue the money.