美国铁路之旅（2016）

走回费城的市中心 一栋大楼
Walking back into downtown Philadelphia, one building
非常的显眼 不是由于它的大小
is distinguished, not by its size,
而是因为其背后的重大历史
but by its momentous history.
独♥立♥纪念大厅 阿普尔顿指南上说到
Independence Hall, says Appletons',
是费城最有趣的物体
is the most interesting object in Philadelphia.
在这里 于1776年7月4日
"Here, on July 4th, 1776,
独♥立♥宣言
"The Declaration of Independence
被采纳并公开宣布
was adopted and publicly proclaimed."
来想象一下当时有2000人听了这宣言
Imagine a crowd of 2,000 people hearing those words,
在散文中 这宣言是优雅的 因为它一直经久不衰
in prose that was as elegant as it has been enduring,
它宣告了一个人♥民♥和政♥府♥之间
announcing a new relationship
的新关系
between the people and their government.
在宾夕法尼亚州议会大厦 国父们宣布
In the Pennsylvania State House, the Founding Fathers declared
独♥立♥并称人人生而平等
independence, and asserted that all men are created equal
都享有生存权 自♥由♥权和追求幸福的权利
and entitled to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness.
而且 还不止这些 如果政♥府♥未能
And that, more than that, if a government failed to
保障这些权益
guarantee those benefits,
人♥民♥便有权改革或废除这政♥府♥
men were entitled to reform it or abolish it.
已有超过100个民♥主♥国家在当今世界
There are more than 100 democracies in the world today
或多或少都致敬那些初始原则
that more or less pay tribute to those then-original principles.
这钟很早以前就挂在这宾夕法尼亚州议会大厦
This bell already hung in the Pennsylvania State House,
然后这上面刻有圣经铭文
and it bore the Biblical inscription,
在所有国土上宣扬自♥由♥
"Proclaim liberty throughout the land."
但在
But at the time of the
美国刚建立的时候
formation of the United States, declaring that
虽然宣布了人人生而平等
all men had been created equal,
其实当时还有上百万的奴隶
there were millions of slaves.
在19世纪的时候这个钟成为了当时
And in the 19th century this bell became the symbol
那些主张废除奴隶制的人们的象征
of those who would abolish slavery.
费城也被称为社区的城市
Philadelphia is also known as the City of Neighbourhoods.
费城人为他们的城市感到骄傲
Philadelphians are proud of their city,
但他们对自己的社区有一种特殊的感情
but they hold a special affection for their own district.
从独♥立♥大厅向南漫步一个半小时
A half-hour stroll south from Independence Hall
将我带到了费城南部 帕特国王牛排餐厅
takes me to South Philadelphia, and Pat's King of Steaks -
费城的奶酪牛排的起源地
home of the Philly cheesesteak.
这看上去蛮吓人的 上面说 怎么点牛排
This is very intimidating. It says, "How to order a steak."
然后它说 如果你犯了一个错
And it says, "If you make a mistake
就走到队伍后面重新开始排队
"Just go to the back of the line and start over."
但它也说 在你排队的时候练习上述要求
But it also says, "Practice the above while waiting in line."
所以 我必须指名到底要不要
So I've got to specify whether it's with,
或者如他们在这所说的
or as they say here, wit,
要洋葱或者不要洋葱
onions or without onions.
然后我可以选择一些东西
And then I have a choice of things here.
让我想想 我想我已经明白了 好吧
Think of it, I think I've got it. OK.
有什么可以帮您的吗 我想要一份牛排 配美式奶酪 谢谢
- Can I help you? -I want a steak wit American cheese, please.
要加洋葱吗 加的 加的
- With onions? -Wit, wit.
- 你觉得我点的怎么样 还行嘛 -很不错的
- What did you think of my ordering? Was it OK? -That was great.
美式加洋葱 美式加洋葱 我知道啦
- American wit. -American wit, American wit. -I understood it.
- 多少钱呢 先生 -10刀 -哇哦
- How much is that, sir? -10 dollars. -Oh, wow.
我身上没这么多钱 等等
That's more than I've got, I think. Hang on.
我被告知准备好自己的钱 现在这真是非常可怕
I was told to have my money ready. This is very terrifying now.
- 这就是为什么我们把说明放在那里 -好了 先生
- That's why we put the sign up there. -There we go, sir.
所以为什么这个奶酪牛排在费城这么有名呢
So why is this so famous in Philadelphia, this cheesesteak?
我们是牛排三明治的发明者
We're the inventor of the steak sandwich.
- 什么 这家店 这个地方 -是的
- What, this very shop? This very place? -Yes, it is.
- 这店开到现在已经多久了 -从1930年就开始了
- How long has it been going then? -Since 1930.
你在当时就卖♥♥出了一些牛排 是不
And you've sold a few in that time, have you?
一些 比一些要多啊
A few. More than a few.
- 好的 非常感谢您 -没事的
- OK, great. Thank you very much. -You got it.
你好啊 你介意我在这边坐下吗
Hi, there. Do you mind if I join you a second?
- 来吧 -噢 谢谢
- Go ahead. -Oh, thank you.
你是一个专业的奶酪牛排鉴赏家吗
Are you a great connoisseur of cheesesteaks?
- 你吃过很多的奶酪牛排吗 -呃 每次来费城都吃
- Do you eat cheesesteaks a lot? -Um...coming to Philly I do.
你从费城外来吗
Are you from outside Philly?
是的 我刚搬到新泽西北部 然后一路开车过来
I am. I just moved to North Jersey, and then drove all the way
到这里来品尝奶酪牛排
from North Jersey here to have a cheesesteak.
这真是太让人惊叹了
That is amazing.
- 是不是像你想象的那样好 是的 -是的 这真是完美的
- And is it as good as you thought? -It is, it was perfect.
你是怎么点餐的 你在上面放了些什么
How did you order yours? What did you have on it?
好吧 我在奶酪牛排上放了些威士
OK, so, I got the cheesesteak with Whiz.
就是融化的奶酪
That's molten cheese.
我原来甚至不知道Whiz是什么
I didn't even know what Whiz was.
然后我就想 哦 就是威士奶酪啊
And then I was like, "Oh, cheese Whiz."
你那里面都有什么
What did you get in yours?
我这里有美式奶酪和洋葱
I've got American cheese and it's "Wit" Onions.
- 还挺好吃的对吧 -超好吃 -超美味的牛排
- That's pretty good, isn't it? -It's amazing. -A tasty steak.
我觉得我应该试试浇上融化的奶酪是什么味道
I think I should have had it with the molten cheese,
但说实话 我真是怕了威士奶酪
but, to tell you the truth, Cheez Whiz just put me off.
非常感谢
Well, thank you very much.
和你一起吃午餐真的很有趣
It's been a real joy sharing lunch with you.
- 是啊 当然 -拜拜 保重
- Yeah, definitely. -Bye-bye. Take care.
你也是 祝你玩得开心
Take care. Have a good one.
美国的食物分量太足了 我觉得
The food in the United States is so gargantuan that I feel
我得去散散步消消食
I need to take a run to keep fit.
我这可是受了拳王洛奇的启发
And I'm inspired to do so
也就是费城最伟大的科幻英雄
by Philadelphia's greatest fictional hero -Rocky Balboa.
但我需要他的主题曲 才能跑得起来
But in order to get myself going I need his theme music.
我的下一站是宾夕法尼亚大学
My next stop is the University of Pennsylvania,
据阿普尔顿指南书所述 一个坐落在
which Appletons' tells me occupies,
36大街和蝗虫步道交叉点的
"Spacious and substantial stone buildings
宽敞坚固的石砌建筑物
"At 36th and Locust Streets"
这所大学由一所本杰明 富兰克林
The university grew out of a school established
在1751年创立的学校演变而来
in 1751 by Benjamin Franklin -
本杰明 富兰克林是美国国父之一
a Founding Father of the nation.
它是常春藤联盟的八大名校之一
It's one of the elite group of eight Ivy League colleges,
哈佛和耶鲁也在这个联盟中
which includes Harvard and Yale.
阿普尔顿指南中提到的宽敞坚固的石砌建筑物
The spacious and substantial buildings mentioned
依然矗立在这里
in Appletons' are still here,
这些建筑营造了一种历史的传承感
and they create a sense of heritage and of history,
而且散发出卓越的气息
and they seem to exude an excellence.
另外这些林间小道给学生们提供了绝妙的聚会地点
And these pathways provide a wonderful meeting place
这是真正意义上的社区意识
for students -a real sense of community.
感觉我重返青春啦
Oh, to be young again!
宾夕法尼亚大学拥有
Penn's American football tradition
这个国家最古老的橄榄球传统
is amongst the oldest in the country.
他们参加过1350多场比赛
They've played over 1,350 games -
比其他任何校队都多
more than any other college team.
他们的体育馆 富兰克林运动场 于1♥8♥9♥5年投入使用
Their stadium, Franklin Field, opened in 1♥8♥9♥5,
是整个国家最具历史意义的大学橄榄球场地
making it the nation's most historic college football venue.
这个橄榄球场可以
This football field has
容纳超过五万观众
a capacity of more than 50,000 spectators,
比英超联赛足球俱乐部球队的
which makes it bigger than the
场馆平均面♥积♥都大
average English Premier League football club.
要晓得 这还只是大学比赛而已
And you have to remember that this is just the college game!
我同意加入一个美式橄榄球的速成课程
I've agreed to a crash course in American football.
现在我战战兢兢地走进了富兰克林运动场的衣帽间
And I'm entering the Franklin Field locker room with trepidation.
我现在要把我自己装进以可怕著称的
I'm now going to get myself into the famously fearsome
全套橄榄球训练服里
American football kit.
这应该给我提供了必要的保护
This should provide some useful protection.
我需要有人帮我掌握场上的复杂规则
To help me get to grips with the on-pitch complexities
我将会见的是宾夕法尼亚大学橄榄球队的总教练 雷 普瑞奥尔
I'm meeting Ray Priore, head coach of the Penn football team.
- 教练 很高兴见到你 -很高兴认识你 -你好吗
- Good to see you, Coach. -Nice to meet you. -How are you?
我只是在想
I'm just thinking, I don't really
我对橄榄球的规则并不是很了解
understand the rules of football,
它是来源于英式橄榄球的吗
but does it derive from British rugby?
当然是从英式橄榄球来的
Definitely from British rugby.
这是注重身体对抗的比赛 所以才有护具
A very physical game, where there's tackling.
我想在英式橄榄球中
And I believe in English rugby
只能向后传球 但在美式中
there is only passes that can go only backwards, where in American football
你可以把球扔到运动场边缘
you're allowed to throw the ball down the playing field.