苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

奥克尼岛拥有设得兰岛的维京人遗产，也有丰富的考古遗迹、
Orkney shares Shetland's
Viking heritage and is also rich
in archaeological remains,
但这些岛屿给人以温和的感觉，不那么粗犷。
but the islands feel gentler
somehow, less rugged.
尽管如此，布莱克警告维多利亚州的游客不要对天气抱有太多期望。
Nevertheless, Black's warns
the Victorian tourist not to
expect too much of the weather.
"春天，"它宣布，"直到四月才开始
"Spring," it declares,
"does not commence until April
"而且在6月之前几乎没有暖气。
"and there is little warmth
until June.
"夏季大部分时间在8月结束，冬季开始。
"Summer terminates for the most part
in August and winter commences
"在♥十♥月♥，占据了一年中剩余的五个月"。
"in October and occupies the
remaining five months of the year."
哦，亲爱的。
Oh, dear.
这就是迈斯豪，对我来说，这是奥克尼岛最壮观的考古遗址。
This is Maes Howe, for me,
Orkney's most spectacular
archaeological site.
它可能看起来不大，但在这个草堆下面
It might not look much,
but beneath this grassy mound
躺在一个如此古老和独特的结构中、
lies a structure
so ancient and unique,
它的重要性在世界范围内得到了认可。
its importance is recognised
around the world.
我是来见导游希娜-韦纳姆的，她冒着大雨带我参观。
'I've come to meet Tour Guide
Sheena Wenham, who's braved
the weather to show me around.
'几个世纪以来，梅斯豪是一个谜。
'For centuries,
Maes Howe was a mystery.
当地人认为它是由邪恶的巨魔居住的，直到19世纪，它才被发现。
'Local people believed it to be
inhabited by malevolent trolls
and it wasn't until the 19th century
'考古学家打开它，发现了一个比金字塔更古老的结构。
'that archaeologists opened it up
to reveal a structure
older than the pyramids.'
所以我们在这里。
So here we are.
哦，哇哦!这真令人吃惊。是的，质量
Oh, wow! That's amazing.
Yes, the quality
的建筑的非凡和你看到它是如何......
of the building's extraordinary
and do you see how it...
石头进来了，它被称为corbelling。
The stone comes in,
it's called corbelling.
想到5000年前，人们拥有切割的技术和技能，这真是不可思议。
Well it's incredible to think that,
5,000 years ago, people had the
technology and the skill to cut
并将石头如此错综复杂地合在一起，以这样一种精确的工程方式将其锁定。
and fit stones so intricately
and lock it together in such a kind
of precisely-engineered way.
我们对建造这个的人了解多少？
What do we know about
the people who built this?
我们知道他们没有金属工具、
Well we know they had no metal tools,
但这些人是农民，他们有牲畜，他们种植农作物
but these people were farmers,
they had livestock, they grew crops
而当有人死亡时，我们认为尸体被留在外面
and when somebody died,
we think the bodies were left outside
当他们只是骨头的时候，就会被采摘干净、
to be picked clean
and when they were just bones,
这些被带入像这样的室墓。
these were brought into
chamber tombs like these.
现在我在某个地方读到，我不知道这有多准确，但是、
Now I read somewhere, and I don't
know how accurate this is, but,
与许多石器时代的遗址一样，这是在天文上排列的。
as with a lot of Stone Age sites,
this is aligned astronomically.
是的。朝着太阳的方向。那是真的吗？
Yeah. Towards the sun. Is that true?
是的，这很不寻常。如果你站在这里，在漆黑的环境里
Yes, it's quite extraordinary. If
you stand in here in pitch darkness
在一年中最短的一天、
on the shortest day of the year,
大约在下午三点、
about three in the afternoon,
夕阳无限好，只是近黄昏。
the rays of the setting sun
shine down the entrance passage
并溅到那面墙上、
and splash that wall,
在一种玫瑰色的光芒中照亮了整个墓穴。
lighting the whole tomb up
in a kind of rosy glow.
当你这么说时，我脖子上的汗毛开始竖起来了。
When you said that, the hairs on
the back of my neck began to rise.
这里也真的很有气氛。
It's really quite atmospheric
in here as well.
我的意思是，你会有一种真正的历史感，而且不只是新石器时代的历史、
I mean, you get a real sense
of history and it's not just
Neolithic history,
因为我们在这里到处都有这些符文的铭文。我的意思是，它们是如何来到这里的？
because we've got these runic
inscriptions all over the place.
I mean, how did they get here?
好吧，我们有一本书叫《奥克尼恩加传奇》、
Well, we have a book
called the Orkneyinga Saga,
和它讲述了奥克尼岛北欧伯爵的故事，我们知道、
and it tells the story of the
Norse Earls of Orkney and we know,
有几次，诺森人闯入这个墓穴、
a couple of times,
Norsemen broke into this tomb,
而且他们一定有很多时间在手上。
and they must have had
a lot of time on their hands.
因为他们似乎把时间花在了在墙上写字上
Because they seem to spend
it writing on the walls
而实际上它是涂鸦，就像你看到的那种涂鸦一样
and really it's graffiti, just like
the sort of graffiti you see
今天，在你的普通公共汽车候车亭上。真的吗？是的。
on your average
bus shelter today. Really? Yes.
好吧，他们费了很大劲才把名字留在这里。
Well, they went to a lot of effort
to leave their names here.
他们当然会这样做。我们知道他们说什么吗？
They certainly did.
Do we know what they say?
诸如："英吉利是最美丽的女人"。
Things like, "Ingigerth
is the most beautiful of women,"
然后，在它旁边出现了一只贪婪的狗的形象。
and then a slavering dog image
just by it.
你认为他是在讽刺吗？
Was he being ironic, do you think?
也许，还有那个非常稀疏的，是关于一个叫索尔尼的女人的、
Maybe, and the very sparse one
that is about a woman called Thorni,
它只是说 "索尔尼躺下了，赫尔吉雕刻了"。
it just says
"Thorni bedded, Helgi carved."
'看着这些符文，我突然想到了
'Looking at the runes,
it suddenly strikes me
'，9世纪的维京人游客一定有很高的识字水平。
'that the 9th-century Viking
tourists must have had
a high degree of literacy.
'他们可能是一群野蛮好战的人，但他们可以阅读和书写。
'They may have been a wild
and warlike bunch,
but they could read and write.
离开麦斯豪，我接下来的旅程将前往柯克沃尔、
'Leaving Maes Howe, my journey
next takes me to Kirkwall,
'布莱克的旅游指南以相当不乐观的措辞描述了这一点。
'which Black's guidebook describes
in rather unpromising terms.
'"奥克尼群岛的首府柯克沃尔，是一个干净整洁的地方、
'"Kirkwall, the capital of the
Orkney Islands, is a clean and tidy,
'""如果不是很热闹的话，是个小镇。"
'"if not very lively, town."
'那是在1862年。
'That was in 1862.
'今天，它是一个嘈杂、热闹的地方。
'Today, it's a noisy,
bustling place.
'但我惊讶地发现，古老的习俗被赋予了现代的色彩。
'But I'm surprised to discover
old customs are given
a contemporary twist.'
对不起，女士们。
Excuse me, ladies.
到底发生了什么事？我可以问你发生了什么吗？再近一点。
What the hell is going on?
Can I ask you what's going on?
A bit closer.
我觉得我需要来帮助她。
I feel I need to come
to her assistance.
西莉亚很快就要结婚了，所以这是...
Celia is getting married soon,
so this is...
她结婚了？她要结婚了。
She's married?
She's getting married.
自古以来，奥卡迪亚的准新娘们
'Since time immemorial,
Orcadian brides-to-be
'已经在他们最好的朋友手中忍♥受了公众的嘲笑。
'have endured public ridicule at
the hands of their best friends.
'这是一个善意的，虽然相当粘稠的生意。
'It's a good-natured,
if rather sticky, business.'
她是安全的。再见。再见，西莉亚。我就把这个留给你吧。
She's secure. Bye. Bye, Celia.
I'll just leave that there for you.
再见！笑声
Bye!
LAUGHTER
覆盖了一层糖衣以保持她的甜蜜、
With a covering of treacle
to keep her sweet,
新娘被留在柯克沃尔大教堂外思考她即将举♥行♥的婚礼、
the bride to be is left to
contemplate her forthcoming nuptials
outside Kirkwall's cathedral,
几个世纪以来，有许多这样的 "塔林 "和 "羽毛 "的场景。
scene of many
such tarring-and-featherings
through the centuries.
由奥克尼的维京人伯爵于1138年建立、
Founded by the
Viking Earl of Orkney in 1138,
这座 "庄严而古老的建筑"，正如布莱克的描述、
this "stately and venerable pile",
as Black's describes it,
它是为了纪念群岛自己的维京人圣徒，圣马格努斯。
is dedicated to the Islands'
very own Viking saint, St Magnus.
今天，大教堂是圣马格努斯节的主要场所、
Today, the cathedral
is the principle venue
for the St Magnus Festival,
一个吸引音乐家和作曲家的国际活动
an international event that
attracts musicians and composers
和来自世界各地的观众。
and audiences from around the world.
1977年由奥克尼岛杰出的作曲家彼得-麦克斯韦尔-戴维斯爵士创立、
Founded in 1977 by
Orkney's distinguished composer