苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

第一个写到廷德鲁姆的乐趣的人是萨拉-默里。
The first person to
write about the delights of
Tyndrum was Sarah Murray.
1796年，这位令人敬畏的女旅行家
In 1796,
this redoubtable lady traveller
他花了三个月的时间游览高地。
spent three months touring
the Highlands.
被迫躲避暴雨、
Forced to shelter
from torrential rain,
她在这里的一家酒店度过了一个不舒服的夜晚。
she spent an uncomfortable night
at a hotel here.
"在廷德鲁姆没有什么可看的，也没有什么可欣赏的。
"There is little to see
or admire in Tyndrum.
"不过，房♥东希望我去看一口圣井
"The landlord however
wished me to see a holy well
"在Strathfillan Kirk附近，他告诉我，其水域、
"near Strathfillan Kirk,
whose waters, he told me,
"治好了所有的疾病，除了钱包的疾病"。
"cured every disease
but that of the purse."
我喜欢莎拉-默里，她从不害怕嘲笑自己的失败。
I love Sarah Murray,
she's never afraid to poke fun
at her own failings.
她完全误解了这个人的高地口音，认为
She completely misunderstood the
man's Highland accent and thought
purse一定是盖尔语中对某种疾病的称呼。
purse must be a Gaelic name
for some sort of disease.
当她问到钱包在英语中可能意味着什么时，他说、
When she asked what purse might mean
in English, he said,
"钱，夫人，它不能解决这方面的问题！"
"Money, madam,
it will not cure the want of that!"
的确不是。
Indeed not.
就在丁德伦的路上，是旅馆老板希望莎拉-默里看到的圣井。
Just down the road from Tyndrum
is the holy well the innkeeper
wanted Sarah Murray to see.
作为一个高地版的卢尔德疗养窟、
As a Highland version of the
healing grotto of Lourdes,
圣菲兰的情况有点令人失望。
St Fillan's is a bit disappointing.
但在宗教改革之前的几年里、
But in the years before
the Reformation,
附近有圣菲兰的修道院
the priory of
St Fillan stood nearby
和朝圣者涌向这里，希望得到治愈。
and pilgrims flocked here
in the hope of a cure.
圣池实际上是在河的一个弯道上，但交通
The holy pool is actually on
a bend in the river, but traffic
在繁忙的A82公路上，就在那里
on the busy A82 just over there
确实容易破坏你可能得到的任何宗教氛围。
does tend to undermine any
religious atmosphere you might get.
但这是中世纪的朝圣者来到这里、
But this is where
pilgrims in the Middle Ages came,
寻找治疗方法。
looking for a cure.
现在，圣池被认为可以治疗一系列的疾病、
Now the holy pool was reputed
to cure a range of diseases,
但对那些患有精神疾病的人特别有益。
but was particularly beneficial to
those suffering from mental illness.
我有时认为，治疗方法实际上比痛苦更糟糕。
I sometimes think that the cure was
actually worse than the affliction.
这个可怜的病人，如果你可以这样称呼他的话，首先被捆绑起来。
The poor patient, if you can
call him that, was first bound
手和脚，然后被扔进冰冷的池水中。
hand and foot and then thrown
into the icy waters of the pool.
你可能认为这是一种早期的休克疗法。
You might think
it's an early form of shock therapy.
靠近圣菲兰圣井的地方是西高地路、
Running close to the holy well of
St Fillan is the West Highland Way,
苏格兰最受欢迎的长距离路径、
Scotland's most popular
long-distance path,
在这里，现代朝圣者和健康生活的信徒们
where modern pilgrims
and devotees of healthy living
可以看到他们从南部的格拉斯哥郊区出发、
can be seen making their way
from the outskirts of Glasgow
in the south,
到北部的威廉堡，距离96英里，是艰苦的高原地带。
to Fort William in the north,
a distance of 96 hard
Highland miles.
现在，在我看来，高地的距离往往是
Now it often seems to me
that distances in the Highlands
与该国其他地区的距离不同。
are different from distances
in other parts of the country.
特别是如果你是步行。
Especially if you're on foot.
随着时间的推移，里程似乎越来越长，越来越长。
As the day wears on,
the miles seem to grow longer
and longer and longer.
现在有趣的是，这可能不只是主观经验。
Now interestingly, this might
not just be subjective experience.
在过去，旅行者经常惊讶于需要多长的时间
In the past, travellers were often
amazed at how long it would take
他们从一个地方到另一个地方。
them to get from one place
to another.
他们没有意识到，苏格兰人的里程比南方人的里程长。
They didn't realise that Scots miles
were longer than southern ones.
事实上，苏格兰人的一英里是176¾码。
In fact, the lang Scots mile
was 176¾ yards
比英国的一英里还长。
longer than the English mile.
丁德鲁姆以北，西高地路的路线
North of Tyndrum,
the route of the West Highland Way
沿着由韦德将军修建的旧军事道路前进。
follows the old military road,
built by General Wade
在1715年的雅各布叛乱之后。
after the Jacobite rebellion
of 1715.
这条路的设计是为了方便人们进入高地的偏远地区。
The road was designed to provide
easy access into the remoter
parts of the Highlands.
这是一个狂野的地方。
This was a wild place.
现在也是如此，这就是为什么对我来说，它是如此有吸引力。
And still is, which is why, for me,
it is so attractive.
但早在1865年、
But back in 1865,
布莱克的指南以禁忌的语言描述了这一领域
Black's guide describes this area
in forbidding terms
是一片荒凉、沉闷的荒地，没有树木的荒地。
as a wild, dreary desolation,
a wasteland without trees.
徒步穿越兰诺克摩尔的荒野
Travelling across the wilds
of Rannoch Moor on foot
或在马车上是艰难的事情。
or in a carriage was tough going.
当然，最终，像Rannoch Moor这样的地方
Eventually, of course,
places like Rannoch Moor
不再被看作是禁忌。
stopped being seen as forbidding.
我与地理学家海登-洛里默会面，以找出
I'm meeting up with geographer
Hayden Lorimer to find out
这片壮丽的风景是如何被改变的
how this magnificent scenery
was transformed
成为游客和旅行者的热门目的地。
into a popular destination
for tourists and travellers.
苏格兰在20世纪20年代发生了很大的变化。
Scotland was changing a great deal
in the 1920s.
在20世纪20年代之前，高原地区在很大程度上是一个保护地。
Prior to the 1920s, the Highlands
had been largely the preserve
富人、地主和有身份的人的。
of the rich and the landed
and the titled.
狩猎、射击大队？狩猎和射击，大队，是的。
The hunting, shooting brigade? The
hunting and shooting, brigade, yes.
在1919年，仍有一些接近于
In 1919, there was
still something approaching
高地的350万英亩土地被让给了体育庄园。
3.5 million acres of land given over
to sporting estates in the Highlands.
但空气中存在着革命。
But there was revolution in the air.
廉价票价和不断增加的休闲时间的结合
The combination of cheap fares
and increasing leisure time
把群众带到了野外的地方。
brought the masses
to the wild places.
这是历史上的第一次、
For the first time in history,
普通劳动人♥民♥发现了一种新的自♥由♥。
ordinary working people
discovered a new kind of freedom.
无论是在风景方面，还是更有趣的是在政♥治♥方面。
Both in the landscape
and more interestingly in politics.
从格拉斯哥和苏格兰西部出来的一些人
Some of the people coming out of
Glasgow and the west of Scotland
他们带着激进的政♥治♥思想。
carried with them
radical politic ideas.
这些人都是在船厂工作过的人、
These were people who had spent
time working in the shipyards,
在工程方面、
in engineering works,
并且是社♥会♥主♥义♥意识形态的伟大拥护者。
and were great espousers
of socialist ideology.
那么，这些人是带着意识形态的包袱以及帐篷来到山上的劳动人♥民♥？
So these were working people coming
into the hills with ideological
baggage, as well as tents?
这是正确的，从红色克莱德赛上来的乡亲们
That's right, folks who were coming
up from Red Clydeside
当然不喜欢极少数人的想法
certainly didn't like the idea
that a very small number of people
可以拥有和支配，控制如此大♥比♥例的国家。
could own and dominate, control such
a large proportion of the country.
因此，社♥会♥主♥义♥实际上在这里也有其发挥的空间。
So socialism actually had its
play in the landscape here, too.
我认为说这是一个地方并不为过。
I think it's not too much of an
overstatement to say this was a place
为社会革命的发生。
for social revolution to take place.
步行者和漫游者向大地主和体育场馆发起了挑战、
Walkers and ramblers took on the big
landowners and the sporting estates,
最终赢得了漫游的权利。
eventually winning