苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

the right to roam.
而我们今天所有享受伟大的户外活动的人都欠下了
And all of us who enjoy
the great outdoors today owe
对那些早期的先驱者表示感谢 --
a debt of gratitude
to those early pioneers -
争取上山的权利的男人和女人、
men and women who fought
for the right to tramp the hills,
这是我从十几岁起就一直享受的乐趣。
a pleasure I've enjoyed
ever since I was a teenager.
这是Buachaille Etive Mor、
This is Buachaille Etive Mor,
一座标志性的山峰，守护着格伦科的入口。
an iconic mountain guarding
the entrance to Glencoe.
对我来说，这是与男孩的冒险联♥系♥在一起的观点。
For the me, it's a view that's
bound up with boyhood adventure.
现在这是我从15岁左右就没有做过的事情。
Now this is something
I've not done since I was 15 or so.
周五晚上放学后，我搭车到这里。
On a Friday night after school,
I'd hitchhike up to here
到格伦科，在杰克逊维尔小屋旁搭上我的小帐篷。
to Glencoe and pitch my wee tent
beside the Jacksonville bothy
在河的另一边。
on the other side of the river.
那座小屋是由臭名昭著的克雷格杜攀岩俱乐部的成员建造的、
That bothy was built
by members of the notorious
Creagh Dhu Climbing Club,
其成员是真正的铁杆登山家，其中很多人是
whose members were really hardcore
mountaineers and a lot of them were
克利德赛德的船厂工人。
shipyard workers on Clydeside.
现在传说，如果你曾经进入过那个小屋、
Now legend has it that if
you ever went inside that bothy,
没有他们的邀请，你会后悔的。
without their invitation,
you would rue the day.
这就是为什么我非常理智地一直在露营。
Which I why I very sensibly
always camped.
对于普通人来说，露营是一个美妙的解放者、
For ordinary people,
camping was a wonderful liberator,
这是一种体验伟大户外活动的实惠方式。
an affordable way to experience
the great outdoors.
年轻的时候，我背着帐篷走遍了苏格兰。
As a youngster, I travelled all over
Scotland with my tent on my back.
它给了我巨大的自♥由♥，尽管布莱克的指南建议
It gave me enormous freedom
and although Black's guide suggests
一些令人振奋的散步、
some bracing walks,
我自己的灵感就在另一本书的书页中。
my own inspiration lay in the pages
of a different book.
幸运的是，我已经设法在雨来之前把帐篷搭好。
Fortunately, I've managed to get the
tent up before the rain's come on.
但这是我作为一个小学生整个星期都在期待的事情、
But this is what I looked forward
to all week as a schoolboy,
现在可能很难想象。
it might be hard to imagine now.
这是我的灵感。
This was my inspiration.
一本名为《苏格兰的登山运动》的宏伟书籍
A magnificent book
called Mountaineering In Scotland
由我当时的英雄WH Murray撰写。
by my hero at the time, WH Murray.
这么多像我一样的孩子被山里的虫子咬了的原因
The reason why so many kids like
me were bitten by the mountain bug
和明天，如果天气允许的话、
and tomorrow, weather permitting,
我希望能重拾那份山区的魔力。
I hope to recapture
some of that mountain magic.
第二天早上，照例有云和雨。
The following morning dawns
with the usual cloud and rain.
我提议的Buachaille Etive Mor攀登之旅的一个潮湿的开始
A damp start to my proposed ascent
of Buachaille Etive Mor
与专业的登山向导Dave Cuthbertson一起。
with professional mountain guide,
Dave Cuthbertson.
Cuthbertson先生，您好，先生。
Mr Cuthbertson, how are you, sir?
'甚至在我们可以考虑开始正式攀登之前，
'Even before we can think
of starting the climb proper,'
到弯曲山脊的山脚下，有一个小时的肺活量。
there is an hour of lung-busting
toil to the base of Curved Ridge.
苏格兰的山脉可能很小，但它们可能很陡峭，也很难受。
Scotland's mountains might be small,
but they can be steep and punishing
我想起了维多利亚时代的指南书
and I'm reminded of how Victorian
guide books
描述了苏格兰山脉的可怕景象。
described the awesome spectacle
of Scottish mountains.
"我们和瑞士的公民一起在高原上游荡
"We have wandered the Highlands
with the citizens of Switzerland
"虽然他们自己的山头比较高、
"and although their own hills
are higher,
"他们以热情的狂欢宣告
"they have declared
with enthusiastic rapture
"苏格兰的山峰比他们更胜一筹
"that the mountains of Scotland
outrival them
"在方面的多样性和变化性方面"。
"in point of variety
and changefulness of aspect."
受我们自己的山的启发，富裕的维多利亚时代登山者
Inspired by our own mountains,
well-to-do Victorian climbers
攀登山顶，身着斜纹软呢和滚刀靴。
scaled the summits,
clad in tweeds and hobnail boots.
当我们停下来收绳时，我问戴夫事情有什么变化
As we stop to rope-up,
I ask Dave how things have changed
自从像我的英雄WH Murray这样的绅士登山者的时代以来、
since the days of gentleman climbers
like my hero, WH Murray,
他在1930年代发展了这项运动。
who developed the sport
in the 1930s.
在WH Murray的时代之后、
After WH Murray's time,
年轻的格拉斯哥工人阶级登山者的喜欢、
the likes of the young Glasgow
working-class climbers,
特别是那些克雷格杜氏的人、
particularly those of the Creagh Dhu,
在Glencoe真正开始了他们的存在。
really started to make
their presence here in Glencoe
并从更传统的明显特征中移开
and moved away from the more
traditional obvious features
这是由WH Murray等人开♥发♥的、
that had been developed
by the likes of WH Murray,
然后再到中间更陡峭的墙壁。
and on to the much steeper walls
between.
有趣的是、
Interestingly enough,
克雷格-杜尔人要对一个令人难以置信的增长负责。
the Creagh Dhu were responsible for
an incredible rise
在苏格兰的攀岩标准、
in Scottish rock climbing standards,
我想，主要是由工人阶级主导。
predominantly by working classes,
I suppose.
我们在弯曲的山脊上的路线将我们带入布凯尔的岩石中心。
Our route on Curved Ridge
takes us into the rocky
heart of the Buchaille.
它就在我们上方的大墙和扶壁上
It was up here on the big walls
and buttresses above us
工人阶级登山者在山上测试自己、
that working-class climbers
tested themselves on the mountain,
锻造越来越难的路线。
forging harder and harder routes.
我从17岁起就没有来过这里。
I haven't been up here since
I was 17
这是一次个人朝圣之旅。
and it's something
of a personal pilgrimage.
我就是在这里学会了攀登的基本功。
This is where I learned
the rudiments of climbing
并看着我周围令人敬畏的风景、
and looking at the awe-inspiring
scenery around me,
我对年轻时的自己相当尊重。
I have considerable respect
for my younger self.
最终，我们到达了Crowberry Tower的山顶、
Eventually we reach the summit of
Crowberry Tower,
为经典的一天画上一个华丽的句号♥。
a magnificent end
to a classic day out.
这么多年过去了，很高兴能重新接触到
After all these years,
it's great to get back in touch with
这座山在我还是个孩子的时候就充满了敬畏和兴奋。
the mountain that filled me with
such awe and excitement as a boy.
我想这就是吸引力的一部分，不是吗？
I think that's part of
the attraction, isn't it?
这是那种未知的奇怪元素。
It's that sort of strange
element of the unknown.
虽然之前可能已经做过攀登、
Although the climb may have
been done before,
或者说以前可能没有做过、
or it may
not have been done before,
这也是吸引力的一部分，探索未知的事物
that is part of the attraction,
to explore the unknown
并以你自己的方式感觉到你是先锋。
and to, in your own way,
feel that you are pioneering.
这是很有意义的。
It's very rewarding.
在今天这样的日子里，最大的回报之一是
On a day like today,
one of the greatest rewards
在这里，我们可以看到广阔的兰诺克荒原的美妙景色。
has to be the fantastic views across
the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor.
从这里看，繁忙的A82公路上的游客流量看起来很小
From up here, the tourist traffic
on the busy A82 looks tiny
当它进入格伦科的戏剧性风景时，就显得微不足道了。
and insignificant as it enters
the dramatic scenery of Glencoe.
在1796年，游客几乎无人知晓
In 1796,
tourists were almost unknown
离低地城市这么远。
this far from the lowland cities.
在萨拉-默里的时代、
In Sarah Murray's day,
国王之家酒店外的道路
the road beyond
the King's House Hotel
对她的马车来说太粗糙了。
was too rough for her carriage.
她总是足智多谋，用泥炭车搭了个便车。
Ever resourceful, she hitched