苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

设得兰岛--一百多个岛屿聚集的地方
Shetland - where over a hundred
islands cluster together
在北大西洋的动荡水域中。
in the turbulent waters
of the North Atlantic.
对于古人来说，这里是Ultima Thule，简直就是世界的边缘。
For the ancients
this was the Ultima Thule,
literally the edge of the world.
这些岛屿远离南方的工业城市，这使它们成为
The remoteness of these islands
from the industrial cities of
the south is what made them
对维多利亚时代的人来说是非常有吸引力的，他们渴望逃离喧嚣和压力。
so attractive to the Victorians,
keen to escape the noise
and the pressure
他们忙碌的、过度拥挤的世界。
of their busy, over-crowded world.
一些更具冒险精神的游客冒着汹涌的海浪前进
Some of the more adventurous
tourists braved rough seas
来这里，希望在遥远的北方与世隔绝的完美环境中找到一些和平与安静。
to get here, hoping to
find some peace and quiet in the
perfect isolation of the far north.
在维多利亚时代，许多度假者跟随
In Victorian times,
many holidaymakers followed
最有影响力的指南书所建议的路线、
routes suggested by the most
influential guide book of all,
布莱克的《苏格兰风景指南》。
Black's Picturesque Guide
to Scotland.
在这个系列中，我带着我自己精心翻阅的这本迷人的书。
In this series, I'm taking
my own well-thumbed copy
of this fascinating book.
它在我的家族中已经存在了几代人，并且一直被保存着。
It's been in my family for
generations and was always kept
在手套箱中
in the glove compartment
我们去度假的时候，我父亲的车。
of my father's car
when we went on holiday.
现在它激发了我的灵感，使我有了自己的六个旅程。
Now it's inspired me
to make six journeys of my own.
让它的书页引导我，我想追溯早期游客的脚步，找出苏格兰如何
Letting its pages guide me, I want
to retrace the steps of the early
tourists to find out how Scotland
成为旅游目的地皇冠上的一颗明珠。
became a jewel in the crown
of tourist destinations.
在这次旅程中，我来到北岛，发现
On this journey I've come
to the Northern Isles
to discover
他们与大♥陆♥的距离如何吸引了寻找完美隔离的游客。
how their remoteness from
the mainland drew tourists
in search of perfect isolation.
我的路线从设得兰岛东部的海洋开始，访问勒威克、
My route starts in the ocean to the
east of Shetland, visits Lerwick,
然后探索岛上丰富的野生动物
then explores the islands'
rich wildlife
在再次出海之前，向南驶向音乐之都奥克尼群岛。
before heading out to sea again
and sailing south to the
musical Orkney Islands.
这里是设得兰岛的海岸。
This is the coast of Shetland.
岛屿在这里的位置--位于苏格兰和挪威之间--的位置。
The islands' position here - lying
between Scotland and Norway -
代表了一种文化上的半途而废，因为我的
represents a kind of cultural
halfway house that because of my
我发现挪威家族的关系特别吸引人。
family's Norwegian connections,
I find especially fascinating.
600多年来，奥克尼和设得兰都是伟大的维京帝国的一部分。
For over 600 years, both Orkney
and Shetland were part of a
great Viking empire
为了承认和庆祝这一事实，我加入了这艘挪威船、
and in recognition and celebration
of this fact I've joined this
Norwegian boat,
它正在参加挪威的卑尔根和设得兰的勒威克之间的年度比赛。
which is taking part
in the annual race between Bergen
in Norway and Lerwick in Shetland.
因为我的父亲住在卑尔根，作为挪威船员的一员，我几乎有一种回家的感觉。
Because my father lives in Bergen,
being part of a Norwegian crew
makes me feel almost at home.
当我们驶入勒威克港时，我趁机练习了一下
As we sail into Lerwick Harbour,
I take the opportunity to practise
我的挪威语是问船长莫滕，这次航行是什么样的。
my Norwegian by asking
Skipper Morten what the
voyage has been like.
你以前做过这种穿越吗？我想这是我第九次了。
Have you made this crossing before?
I think this is my ninth time.
你的第九次。
Your ninth time.
我不得不说，你是个傻瓜，是个贪婪的人。
You're a sucker and a glutton
for punishment I have to say.
告诉我，作为一个挪威人，像设得兰这样的地方对你有什么吸引力？
Tell me, as a Norwegian,
what is the attraction
of a place like Shetland to you?
我们的遗产在某种程度上是在这里，对吗？这是你的，这是你的遗产？
It's our heritage is over
here in a way, right?
This is your, this is your heritage?
一个维京人过来了，然后他就在这里结束了。
A Viking coming over and
then he ended up here.
所以你重现了维京人的时代？
So you're re-living
the age of the Vikings?
绝对的。参加这次比赛？
Definitely. Taking part in this race?
绝对的。我们是战士，实际上我们更像是周末战士。
Definitely. We are warriors, well
we're more weekend warriors actually.
莫顿和他的船员可能觉得与设得兰岛有一种亲近感，但在1200年前
Morten and his crew might feel
an affinity with Shetland,
but 1,200 years ago
他的维京人祖先是作为征服者和殖民者而来。
his Viking ancestors
came as conquerors and colonisers.
当地居民在身体和文化上都被从地图上抹去了。
The local population were physically
and culturally wiped from the map.
这不是你想要鼓励的那种游客。
Not the kind of tourists
you want to encourage.
值得庆幸的是，今天的挪威游客完全没有那么多的威胁，而是更加良性、
Thankfully, today's Norwegian
tourists are altogether less
threatening and more benign,
热衷于上岸并享受勒威克的乐趣
keen to come ashore
and enjoy the delights of Lerwick
也许还可以在英国最北端的城镇吃点咖喱或喝杯啤酒、
and maybe even a curry
or a beer in Britain's most
northerly town,
谢特兰岛的首府。
the capital of Shetland.
把啤酒和咖喱留给了我勇敢的挪威船友、
Leaving the beer and curry to my
brave Norwegian ship mates,
我开始探索这个看起来很不错的古镇。
I set off to explore this
fine-looking old town.
我注意到的第一件事是设得兰旗。
The first thing I notice
is the Shetland flag.
它到处飞舞，宣扬着岛屿与国家其他地区的独♥立♥意识、
It flies everywhere, proclaiming
the islands' sense of independence
from the rest of the country,
提醒人们，直到1469年，维京人一直统治着这些岛屿。
a reminder that until 1469,
the Vikings ruled these islands.
尽管布莱克的指南认为这种维京人的联♥系♥相当惊心动魄、
Although Black's guidebook
finds this Viking connection
quite thrilling,
城镇本身则不那么受欢迎。
the town itself is less favoured.
"勒威克是一个非常不规则的城市建筑。
"Lerwick is
a very irregularly built town.
"这些房♥子非常朴素，在外观上并不讨人喜欢。"
"The houses are very plain,
and not prepossessing
in appearance."
但冒险的维多利亚时代的游客并没有来到这么远的北方
But the adventurous Victorian
tourist didn't come
this far north
欣赏建筑，或者说没有建筑。
to admire the architecture,
or the lack of it.
吸引挑剔的游客的是这些岛屿提供的偏远感。
What appealed to the discerning
visitor was a sense of remoteness
offered by these islands.
对于被设得兰丰富的野生动物所吸引的现代游客来说，这仍然是一个巨大的吸引力。
This is still a huge attraction
to modern tourists drawn to the
abundant wildlife of Shetland.
为了亲身体验丰富的自然历史、
To experience the rich
natural history for myself,
我正在前往诺斯，设得兰岛众多无人居住的小岛屿之一。
I'm heading to Noss,
one of Shetland's many
uninhabited small islands.
我和鸟类学家乔纳森-威尔斯一起，他驾驶着一艘船。
I'm joining ornithologist Jonathan
Wells, who skippers a boat
带领游客进行野生动物游猎，只能说是一个海鸟城市。
taking tourists on wildlife
safaris to what can only be
described as a seabird city.
诺斯不是一个适合胆小的人的地方，它很荒凉和遥远。
Noss is not a place for the
faint-hearted, it's wild and remote.
在布莱克的时代，进入该岛的方式为
In Black's day,
access to the island was made
通过悬挂在悬崖之间的一个令人震惊的绳索吊篮。
by means of an alarming rope cradle
slung between the cliffs.
这些同样的悬崖在我的头顶上升起了令人眩晕的600英尺高。
These same cliffs rise
a dizzy 600 feet above my head
并在龙骨下再插入100个。
and plunge another 100
beneath the keel.
周围的空气以成千上万只筑巢海鸟的气味和噪音袭击着我的感官。
The air all around assails my
senses with the smell and noise
of thousands of nesting seabirds.
雀巢公♥司♥（BIRDS CAW
BIRDS CAW
人们认为他们知道来到这里会有什么期待--他们会看到一个鸟崖。
People think they know what to
expect when they come here -
they're going to see a bird cliff.
但这总是让人惊讶和着迷。
But this always astonishes
and enthrals.
有很多海鸟群，也有更大的海鸟群、
There are lots of seabird colonies
and there are bigger ones,
但这个地方的物种数量和种类最为集中。
but this one has the greatest
concentration of numbers
and variety of species in one place
几百年来，它一直让人们大吃一惊。
and it's been knocking people's
socks off for hundreds of years.