苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

大多数来到诺斯的游客都有一个完全不同的关系
Most tourists who come to Noss have
a completely different relationship
与维多利亚时代的同行相比，他们与自然界的关系更为密切。
with the natural world from
their Victorian counterparts.
早在19世纪，对野生动物的兴趣通常意味着对拍摄事物的热情。
Back in the 19th century, an
interest in wildlife usually meant
an enthusiasm for shooting things
和体育游客会来到诺斯
and the sporting tourist
would have come to Noss
轰击鸟类和海豹以及其他任何移♥动♥的东西。
to blast away at the birds and the
seals and anything else that moved.
即使是那些自称对自然有更多科学兴趣的人
Even those who professed a more
scientific interest in nature
习惯于用枪来收集标本。
resorted to the gun
to collect specimens.
你读了他们装袋的清单，这是很可怕的、
You read their lists of what they
bagged and it's horrifying,
真的是罕见的鸟类，并认为这是快乐的好运动。好运动？他们笑了
really rare birds, and thought it
was jolly good sport. Good sport?
THEY LAUGH
最后一只海鹰是1918年在诺斯这里被射杀的。
Well the last sea eagle was shot here
at Noss in 1918
由一位英国神职人员撰写。
by an English clergyman.
这也是一种运动上的乐趣，让人不由自主地想去射击、
As well as being a sporting delight
for would be crack-shots,
诺斯还有其他吸引维多利亚时代游客的地方。
Noss had other attractions
for the Victorian tourist.
布莱克指南》推荐大家去参观一个巨大的海蚀洞，其核心是一个黑暗的秘密。
Black's Guide recommends
a visit to a giant sea cave
with a dark secret at its heart.
它被称为奥克尼人的洞穴，被设得兰人用作避难所。
Known as the Orkneyman's Cave, it
was used as a refuge by Shetland men
当海军记者团前来拜访时。
when the Navy press gangs
came calling.
在拿破仑战争期间，大约有3000名来自设得兰岛的男子在皇家海军服役。
During the Napoleonic Wars,
something like 3,000 men served
in the Royal Navy from Shetland.
这是人口中的一大块。
That's a large chunk
of the population.
那是很多男人。是的。
That's a lot of men. Yeah.
而且他们几乎都被列入了记录中
And they're nearly all listed
in the records
在格林威治，在海事博物馆，作为志愿者。
at Greenwich, at the
Maritime Museum, as volunteers.
志愿者们，换句话说，被压♥迫♥的人。是的。
Volunteers,
in other words, press-ganged. Yeah.
记者团的船经过这里，他们往里看--"洞里没人"。
The press-gang ship comes past here,
they look in - "The cave's empty."
但在那里，在最后，有一个隧♥道♥，你可以藏身。而那就是他们藏身的地方。
But in there, at the end,
there's a tunnel where you can hide.
And that's where they hid.
那是他们藏身的地方，因为海军的划艇，鲸鱼船、
That's where they hid, because the
naval rowing boats, the whale boats,
就不能进去了。一旦你进去了，你就安全了。
wouldn't be able to get in.
Once you're in there, you're safe.
为什么叫奥克尼曼之洞？我不知道这是不是真的、
Why's it called the Orkneyman's
Cave? I don't know if it's true,
但故事是一个来自奥克尼的人来到这里，并躲避记者的采访。
but the story is a man from Orkney
came here and hid from the press gang
他试图游到那边去，那里非常冷，这水在40分钟内会杀死你。
and he tried to swim out over there
and it's terribly cold, this water'll
kill you in 40 minutes.
他们发现他就快死了，躺在那边的石头上。
They found him just about dead,
draped on that rock over there.
体温过低。体温过低。
Hypothermic. Hypothermic.
所以他们救了他，把他带回家，给他喝了一杯朗姆酒。
So they rescued him and they took him
home and they gave him a shot of rum.
而这并不奏效，所以他们尝试了最终的手段--他们把他和一个布雷塞的小姑娘放在床上。
And that didn't work, so they
tried the ultimate resort - they put
him in bed with a Bressay lass.
对。这有用吗？是的，成功了，他活下来了，当然他必须娶她。
Right. Did that work?
Yes, it did, it he survived
and of course he had to marry her.
嗯，这不一定是一件坏事。嗯，这就是传说中的。
Well that's not necessarily a bad
thing. Well, that's the legend.
我曾经相信这个故事，我不确定我是否相信。
I used to believe that story,
I'm not sure I do any more.
正如你所期望的那样，设得兰岛的高尚故事和传说与它的野生动物同样丰富。
As you might expect, Shetland is
just about as rich in tall tales
and legends as it is in wildlife.
两个世纪前，群岛丰富的民间传说
Two centuries ago,
the Islands' wealth of folklore
它有助于激发苏格兰最多产的作家沃尔特-斯科特爵士的丰富想象力。
helped to fuel the fertile
imagination of Scotland's most
prolific writer, Sir Walter Scott.
沃尔特-司各特爵士受到设得兰岛戏剧性风景的启发
Sir Walter Scott was inspired
by the dramatic scenery of Shetland
将他的小说《海盗》设定在北岛。
to set his novel The Pirate
in the Northern Isles.
现在，书中的海盗英雄有一个不可能的名字
Now the pirate hero of the book
goes by the improbable name
莫尔道特-默顿的--没有关系--的
of Mordaunt Mertoun - no relation -
巴西尔-默顿的儿子--肯定没有关系。
son of Basil Mertoun -
definitely no relation.
现在，当痴情的莫尔达特在心事上需要帮助时、
Now when the lovesick Mordaunt
needs help in affairs of the heart,
他呼唤女巫诺娜、
he calls upon the witch, Norna,
他住在那里，在菲特福德的壮观悬崖上。
who lived over there, on the
spectacular cliffs of Fitful Head.
斯科特在他的作品中使用Fitful Head这样的真实地点是典型的做法，这是一个聪明的手段。
It was typical of Scott to use
real locations like Fitful Head
in his work, a clever device
这有助于吸引他有时是狂热的读者去参观他小说中的场景。
that helped to attract his
sometimes fanatical readership
to visit the settings of his novels.
这是贾尔斯霍夫，是小说《海盗》中的另一个斯科特地点。
This is Jarlshof, another Scott
location from the novel The Pirate.
贾尔斯霍夫是斯科特给这里的老庄园起的一个虚构的名字、
Jarlshof is
the fictitious name Scott gave
to the old manor house here,
但贾尔斯霍夫的情况甚至比他所想象的还要多。
but there's more to Jarlshof
than even he could have imagined.
我是来见导游道格拉斯-史密斯的，以了解更多关于斯科特和这个特殊地点的情况。
I've come to meet tour guide
Douglas Smith to find out more
about Scott and this special site.
他需要一个总部
He needed a headquarters
为他的英雄，他看到这里的废墟
for his hero, he saw this ruin here
并说："就是这样，这样就可以了。"我就叫它Jarlshof吧。
and said, "That's it, that'll do
fine." I'll just call that Jarlshof.
那就是沃尔特-斯科特爵士的浪漫想象力又在加班了？我想是的，是的。
That's Sir Walter Scott's romantic
imagination working overtime again
then? I suppose so, yes.
这很惊人。他没有意识到这一点，但这里有层层的历史。
It's amazing.
He didn't realise this, but there
are layers of history here.
绝对的，这是一个相当独特的网站。
Absolutely,
this is a quite unique site.
贾尔斯霍夫是迷人的，非同寻常的，因为它一直是一个人类持续居住的地方
Jarlshof is fascinating and
extraordinary, because it's been a
place of continual human habitation
自石器时代以来，它就一直被认为是最重要的，但在布莱克的时代，它是未知的，直到天气的介入。
since the Stone Age,
but in Black's day it was unknown
until the weather intervened.
那么，发生了什么事来揭示这个网站呢？
So what happened
to reveal this site then?
嗯，在1900年之前有一场大风暴
Well, there was a great storm
just before 1900
和沙子和土壤被吹走了一些结构的顶部。
and the sand and soil was blown off
the top of some structures.
所以在那之前，整个地区完全被沙子埋没，就像一个大沙丘？
So until that point, the whole area
was completely buried by sand,
it was like a big sand dune?
正如我们，正如我们所理解的那样，是的。
As we, as we understand so, yes.
在废墟中，有一个保存完好的有4000年历史的轮机室、
Among the ruins
is a wonderfully-preserved
4,000-year-old wheelhouse,
在我看来，这就像霍比特人洞穴的原型、
which to me looks like
the prototype of a hobbit's burrow,
但我特别渴望看到维京人的遗迹
but I'm especially eager to see
the Viking remains
这里已经发现的。
that have been discovered here.
所以现在，我们来到了维京时代、
So now,
we're coming to the Viking era,
大约在公元850年。
about 850 AD.
当然，挪威游客告诉我们，只有晕船的维京人才会在设得兰岛定居。
Of course, the Norwegian visitors
tell us that it was only the seasick
Vikings who settled in Shetland.
而真正的维京人则继续追求他们的航行。
And the real Vikings went on
to pursue their voyages.
现在你认为设得兰人是否觉得自己有一点维京人的味道，有一点挪威人的味道？
Now do you think Shetlanders
feel a wee bit Viking, a wee bit
sort of Norwegian themselves?
我当然知道，这也是......的一部分。哦，这是我们遗产的一部分，必须如此。
I certainly do and it's part...
Och it's part of our heritage,
it has to be.
斯堪的纳维亚半岛的联♥系♥只是其中一个特点
The Scandinavian connection
is just one of the characteristics
这就是现代设得兰的定义，但还有另一个定义。
that define modern Shetland,
but there is another.
与由维京人的过去所激发的类似战争的形象不同、
Unlike the war-like images
inspired by a Viking past,
这张照片提供了一个更加可爱的岛屿的象征。
this one provides an altogether more
endearing symbol of the islands.
当然，这是一匹设得兰小马，在全世界都很有名，很受人喜爱。
This, of course, is a Shetland pony,
famed and much-loved
throughout the world
并用于严重的纹章效果
and used to serious heraldic effect
由该岛议会在其国徽上签名。