黄石公园（2009）

takes them over 1 00 miles to the south of Yellowstone,
走到了黄石公园以南超过100英里的地方
the longest migration of any American mammal.
是美国所有哺乳动物中最遥远的迁徙
They have made this journey every year since the last ice age.
从上一次冰河时代起他们每年都重复这趟旅程
But, nowadays, they have a problem.
但 时下 他们有一个问题
Their traditional winter refuges
他们传统的冬天避难所
lie right above some of the richest natural gas deposits in America.
恰好位于美国最富藏天然气的地方
The wells are no direct threat to pronghorn.
油气井对叉角羚并非直接的威胁
But pronghorn are timid.
但是他们很胆小
At the slightest noise they run
听到最微小的噪音他们就会狂奔
and when they run, they run at 60 miles per hour.
而且当一跑起来 他们的速度是每小时60英里
They evolved to avoid cheetahs, not juggernauts.
他们进化来躲避的是猎豹 不是世界的主宰
Trucks, fences
卡车 围墙
and the disturbance from the wells have put pronghorn at risk.
和来自油气井的干扰已经使叉角羚处于危险中
There are 1.2 million acres here,
这里面♥积♥一百二十万英亩
but 75% of it has now been earmarked for gas and oil.
但有75%现在已经预留给天然气和石油
Back in the farmland, the elk have found food.
回到农场里 麋鹿找到了食物
But this grass is not meant for them.
但是这些草不是给他们的
Ranchers will tolerate elk
农场经营者可以容留麋鹿
as long as they don't compete too much with their cattle.
只要他们不要与他们圈养的牛过分争食
But, as the elk move in,
但是 当麋鹿迁徙至此
their old enemy follows them out of Yellowstone,
他们的老对头会从黄石公园跟踪到这里
an animal that's more difficult for ranchers to accept.
这是一种农场经营者更难接受的动物
In their minds, fear of the wolf runs deep.
对狼的恐惧 深植他们的脑海里
Even Yellowstone lost its wolves.
尽管黄石公园的狼逐年减少
They were wiped out over 80 years ago.
他们还是在80年前被消灭彻底
After years of prejudice, they were reintroduced in 1 995,
在数年的偏见之后 在1995年 主管部门为了
brought back by the authorities to restore Yellowstone's natural balance.
修复黄石公园的自然平衡他们再度被引入
But the wolves have done so well,
但狼群发展势头如此之好
that now they are moving out of the park looking for new territories
以致现在他们正从公园迁出找寻新的领地
and prey.
和猎物
Out here, it's clearer to see why wolves have a bad reputation.
在这里 更容易明白为何狼如此声名狼藉
If ranchers' cattle are at risk, by law, wolves can be shot.
法律上 如果农场经营者的牛处于险境 可以将狼射杀
As wolves come back, ranchers are being forced to return to the old ways,
当狼群回来时 农场经营者被迫用回老办法
to get back into the saddle and protect their herds.
跨上马鞍保护他们的牛群
But opinion is changing.
但是观念在变革
Working with scientists who have radio-collared the Yellowstone wolves,
与给黄石公园狼戴上无线电颈圈的科学家们合作
ranchers can now keep track of them
农场经营者现在能掌握他们的资讯
and when they know they are near,
当他们知道狼群接近的时候
shoot not to kill but to scare them away.
开枪把他们吓走而不是射杀他们
The return of the wolf will always be controversial.
狼的返回问题会一直争论下去
But evidence is now emerging
但现在证据显示
that wolves are far more important than anyone imagined,
狼比任何人想像的都要重要
especially back in the heart of Yellowstone.
尤其对黄石公园的中心地带来说
It's nearly the end of October.
现在快十月底了
The cold autumn nights have brought a thin crust of ice to a beaver's pond.
寒冷秋夜给海狸池塘带来薄薄一层冰
Unlike in the river valleys below,
不像在下面的河谷
up here, there are not many tall cottonwood trees.
在这样的高处 没有那么多的高三角叶杨树
So this beaver has built his dam from the shoots of young willows
因此这只海狸采用在他池塘边抽条发芽的
sprouting all along the side of his pond.
新生柳树的嫩枝来建造他的水坝
But he is something of a novelty.
但其实他的存在多少有点新奇
Even by the time Yellowstone was made a national park,
即使当黄石已经被设立为国家公园
beavers had been virtually hunted to extinction by fur trappers.
海狸还是几乎被毛皮猎人捕猎殆尽
They only began to reappear here in 1 995,
他们直到1995年才在这里重现
the year the wolves came back.
也就是狼群回来的那一年
Now wolves are chasing elk again,
现在麋鹿再次被狼群所追逐
elk have had less time to eat willows,
使得麋鹿没什么时间吃柳树了
so willows are sprouting everywhere.
所以柳树到处发芽
Today, as winter approaches,
今天 当冬天临近
all over Yellowstone beavers are using those willows
整个黄石公园的海狸都在使用那些柳树
to put the finishing touches to a dam-building renaissance.
来为水坝建设的文艺复兴画龙点睛
And for every dam, there is a new habitat for new life
而每一个水坝 造就出一个为新生命提供的全新栖息地
and a richer, more diverse Yellowstone.
和一个更富饶更多样化的黄石公园
But just as Yellowstone reveals the complexity of life,
但当黄石公园揭示生命的复杂性时
it also exposes its fragility.
同时也暴露出它脆弱的一面
On its lofty ridges,
在它高高的山脊上
there are signs that all is not well with the whitebark pine.
所有迹象表明白皮松情况不妙
From above, it looks like autumn colours have come to an evergreen world.
从上方看起来 似乎秋色沾染了一个常绿的世界
But these trees are dying.
其实这些树正在死去
Small eruptions of resin dot the trunk of the tree,
树干上树脂的小疹状斑块
evidence of an invasion.
是被入侵的证据
Tiny beetles are chewing through the tree's outer defences.
极小的甲虫正在啃穿这棵树的防御表层
Once inside, they lay eggs that turn into larvae that eat the tree.
一旦进入内部 他们就产下会长成吃树的幼虫的卵
Each tree that is lost
每棵死掉的树
threatens all the animals that rely on its autumn bounty.
会给在秋天仰赖其恩惠的所有动物构成威胁
The only thing that can stop the beetles is extreme cold.
唯一能阻止这些甲虫的是严寒
But, recently, the climate here has been getting warmer and warmer.
但是 最近 这里的气候已经变得越来越暖
No national park can protect against that.
没有哪个国家公园能够对抗气候变暖
This is a tree that needs a cold winter.
这是种需要寒冬的树
It's now November
现在是十一月
and the elk have found their feeding grounds just in time,
麋鹿已经及时找到他们的牧场
the snows of winter at their heels.
冬天的大雪紧随而至
Here they join other herds who come to this place every year,
在这里他们加入到年年来此的兽群
where the snow will be less deep and life a little easier.
这里的雪没那么深 日子也好过一些
But, today, they graze on an island of grass
但是 今天 他们在一个被人类发展包围的
surrounded by development.
孤岛草原上觅食
As they run from the winter,
当他们从冬天出逃
the fate of Yellowstone's animals outside the national park
黄石公园的动物在国家公园之外的命运
is decided not by the cold, but by people.
不是由寒冷 而是由人类主宰
These elk are lucky.
这些麋鹿是幸运的
This refuge has been kept aside to give them some degree of sanctuary.
为了给他们提供一定的庇护 这个避难所被保留下来
So, although the park isn't big enough to protect all its animals all the time,
因此 虽然公园并非大到能一直保护它的所有动物
its influence can spread beyond its boundaries
其影响力却能传播到它的边界之外
and if even ranchers can come to tolerate wolves,
而且如果农场经营者能容忍♥狼群
then anything is possible.
那凡事就皆有可能
In the mountains of Yellowstone,
在黄石公园的山里
where the elks' bugles signalled the beginning of autumn just two months ago,
麋鹿的叫声显得 虽然二个月前才刚进入秋天
all seems deserted.
但却万籁俱寂
But, now, the final act of the season is about to take place.
但是 现在 属于这个季节最后精彩一幕即将登场
From out of apparently nowhere, come the bighorn sheep.
大角羊 不知从哪冒了出来
The toughest of all Yellowstone's animals,
作为黄石公园里所有动物中最坚韧的
they can stay here all winter
他们能在刺骨的寒风不断扫荡的
on slopes and crags that the biting wind keeps clear of snow.
积雪斜坡和峭壁上呆上一整个冬天
Now they are coming together to rut.
现在他们正聚在一起交♥配♥
Like elk, the males battle for females.
象麋鹿一样 雄性为获得雌性战斗
But where elk do their best to avoid fights,
在这种麋鹿尽量避免打斗的地方
bighorn relish them.
大角羊乐此不疲
A quick test of horn size and of other important bits of anatomy,
通过一次羊角尺寸的快速检验和其他重要数据的剖析
and the males get straight to the point of sorting out who is toughest.
雄性单刀直入 理清谁是最强者
As the sound of their battles echoes across the Yellowstone wilderness,
当他们战斗的声音回响在黄石公园荒野上时
it marks the end of autumn.
就表示秋天结束了
Now the great change is coming again.
现在将再次迎来巨变
Winter is here.
冬天来了
As the snow returns to Yellowstone, it seems like the clock is turning back.
当黄石公园又下起雪 仿佛时钟转了一轮
All traces of the human world are covered up.
人类世界的所有痕迹被隐藏了起来
A reminder that when the heart of this great wilderness
提醒人们在约140年前
was made a national park, nearly 1 40 years ago,
被创立为国家公园的这片广袤原野
it was one of the most remote places on Earth.
是地球上最遥远的地方之一
But as the human world has crept up on Yellowstone,
而当人类的世界攀升到黄石公园上面
the true value of this remarkable space has become ever clearer.
这片不平凡地区的真正价值变得比以往更明显
Though, in many ways, Yellowstone is not big enough,
虽然 从很多方面来说 黄石公园面♥积♥不是很大
its influence reaches far beyond its boundaries.
但它的影响力远远超越它的边界
Not just to the land around,
不仅仅对附近地区
but wherever there is a wilderness preserved for its own sake.
还包括因各自不同原因而受到保护的原野
Here, in the heart of America,
这里 在美国的中心
the first national park was born.
第一个国家公园诞生
An idea that has led the way
一种理念引导着
in redefining our relationship with the wild all over the world.
人们以新的方式重新定义人类与世界各地荒野的关系
Some say America's best idea.
有人说这是美国最有价值的理念