苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

but there's nothing
remarkable to be seen.
它应该就在这附近。
It's supposed
to be around here somewhere.
苏格兰的地理中心。旧喀里多尼亚的跳动的心脏。
The geographic centre of Scotland.
The beating heart of old Caledonia.
它应该在这附近的一块石头上。
It's supposed to be on a stone
somewhere around here.
最后，我找到了它。
Finally, I find it.
在这个水晶堤坝的一块石头上有一个简单的石匠标记、
A simple mason's mark on a stone
in this drystane dyke,
表示苏格兰人的中心。
indicating the very epicentre
of Scottishness.
你知道，对于这样一个重要的地点，你会以某种方式期望
You know, for such a significant
spot, you'd somehow expect
一个大的纪念碑在这里。
a big monument to be here.
但出于对国家的尊重，我带来了自己的国旗、
But out of respect for the nation,
I've brought my own flag,
其中我将种植。苏格兰非常勇敢的心。
which I'll plant.
The very brave heart of Scotland.
辉煌。
Brilliant.
从苏格兰的中心出发，轻松地骑自行车就能把我带到
From the centre of Scotland,
an easy cycle ride brings me
进入凯恩戈姆国家公园的中心地带。
into the heart
of the Cairngorm National Park.
当莎拉-默里来到这里时、
When Sarah Murray came here,
她也被这块山林之地的美丽所困。
she too was stuck by the beauty
of this land of mountain and forest.
"峭壁上布满了木材，青翠的草地上
"The crags are covered with wood,
and the verdant meads
"有精美的树木装饰，在视线范围内
"are ornamented with fine trees
and within sight
"凯恩戈姆山，其空洞的悬崖
"of the Cairngorm Mountains,
whose hollow cliffs
"充满了永不融化的雪"。
"are filled
with never-melting snow."
凯恩戈姆地区从1999年起才成为国家公园。
The Cairngorm area has only been
a national park since 1999.
但早在其宝藏被载入立法之前、
But long before its treasures
were enshrined in legislation,
人们来到这里，享受大自然的丰富魅力。
people were coming here to enjoy
the abundant charms of nature.
该地区仍有丰富的野生动物，是著名的鹗的家园、
The area is still rich in wildlife
and is famously home to the osprey,
这只鸟已经成为凯恩戈姆山脉财富的象征。
a bird that has come to symbolise
the fortunes of the Cairngorms.
我在艾林湖畔与罗伯-兰伯特一起工作。
I've joined Rob Lambert
on the shores of Loch an Eilein
来了解为什么这里成为维多利亚时代游客最喜爱的地方。
to find out why this became
a favourite haunt
of Victorian tourists.
他们来这里是为了看这个美妙的风景。
They were coming here to see
this wonderful landscape.
山和森林的相互作用。
The interplay of the mountains
and the forest.
随着19世纪越来越多的几十年过去了、
As more and more of the decades
went by in the 19th century,
鸟类，特别是鱼鹰成为了一个非常重要的部分。
birds and, in particular, ospreys
became a hugely important part
那片高地的景色和那段经历。
of that Highland vista
and that experience.
然后你开始得到第一个书面意见
And you start to get the first
written observations
19世纪70年代和19世纪80年代和19世纪90年代的游客对鹗的看法、
about ospreys by the tourists
in the 1870s and 1880s and 1♥8♥9♥0s,
而这也就形成了对鱼鹰命运的真正关注。
and that builds into a genuine
concern for the fate of the ospreys.
早期的生态旅游者可以观看鹗的筑巢活动
Early eco-tourists could watch
nesting ospreys
在艾林湖，布莱克的描述是这样的
on Loch an Eilein,
which Black's describes
作为苏格兰仅存的鹗类栖息地。
as the last remaining haunt
of the osprey in Scotland.
到1♥8♥9♥9年，它们已经减少到只有一对筑巢。
By 1♥8♥9♥9, they were down
to a single nesting pair.
我们站在这里看着这座城♥堡♥
We're standing here looking
at this castle
而我们看到的是一座纪念碑、
and we're looking at a monument,
如果你愿意的话，请看英国自然保护的历史。
if you like, to the history
of nature conservation in Britain.
还有罗蒂姆丘斯的格兰特，他们拥有这个庄园、
And the Grants of Rothiemurchus,
who own this estate,
是这一保护工作的先驱者。
were pioneers in that
conservation effort.
以至于在1♥8♥9♥3年，伦敦动物学会
So much so, that in 1♥8♥9♥3,
the Zoological Society of London
授予他们一枚奖章，以表彰他们在保护鹗类方面的努力。
awarded them a medal for their
sort of osprey conservation efforts.
这种开明的房♥地♥产♥管理是无济于事的。
Such enlightened estate
management was to no avail.
By 1916, the osprey in Britain
was extinct -
被运动员射杀和被狩猎者迫♥害♥的动物 --
shot by sportsmen
and persecuted by gamekeepers -
但随后发生了令人惊讶的事情。
but then something amazing happened.
大的回归发生在1954年，当时鱼鹰确实回来了。
The big return occurred in 1954
when ospreys did come back.
随即，苏格兰的RSPB，以及罗蒂姆丘斯的格兰特、
And immediately, the RSPB
in Scotland, along with
the Grants of Rothiemurchus,
参与其他组织的人
who were
involved in other organisations
在自然保护区，设立了一个观察点。
in nature conservancy,
set up a watch.
但即使如此，这些巢穴还是受到了干扰
But even then, the nests were
disturbed
并多次遭到抢劫，然后乔治-沃特斯顿
and robbed on a number of occasions,
and then George Waterston
曾任苏格兰皇家鸟类保护委员会主任的马特罗-卡斯特罗，在一些人看来，他做出了如下决定
who was Director of the RSPB
in Scotland, made what some see
作为英国自然保护历史上最有远见的决定之一、
as one of the most visionary
decisions in the history of British
nature conservation,
而他决定将这个巢穴开放给公众监督、
and he decided to open
up the nest to public scrutiny,
将人们带入，向他们展示鱼鹰、
to bring people in
to show them ospreys,
让他们对鱼鹰感到兴奋。
to get them enthused by ospreys.
如果你愿意的话，为了推动对捕食鸟类的态度的改变。
To drive forward, if you like,
a change in attitudes
towards birds of prey.
这场赌博得到了回报。
The gamble paid off.
现在全国各地有200多对鸟巢。
There are now over 200 nesting
pairs across the country.
每年有超过30万名游客前来观看鱼鹰、
Every year, over 300,000 visitors
come to watch the ospreys,
为高地经济注入350万英镑。
pumping �3.5 million
into the Highland economy.
鹗从灭绝中显著回归的故事使我
The story of the osprey's remarkable
return from extinction leads me
来反思旅游业的影响。
to reflect on the impact of tourism.
它不一定是负面的。
It doesn't always
have to be negative.
从凯恩戈姆高原的边缘，可以看到迷人的景色
From the edge of the Cairngorm
plateau, there are stunning views
沿着我的旅程回来
back along the course
of my journey
在一个已经发生巨大变化的环境中
and across a landscape
that has changed enormously
自从第一批游客遵循布莱克的指南书以来。
since the first tourists followed
Black's guide book.
现在，公路在峡谷中穿行，给度假者带来了许多好处。
Roads now thread their way
through the glens,
bringing holiday-makers
到规模扩大一倍的城镇，以满足他们的需求。
to towns that have doubled
in size to serve their needs.
但如果你足够高，还是有可能找到和平和安静、
But if you get high enough,
it's still possible to find
peace and quiet,
被景观的壮丽所恢复。
to be restored by the magnificence
of the landscape.
如果你追求的是高峰的孤独感、
If it's the solitude of
the high summits you're after,
那么这里就是沉思自然魅力的完美场所。
then this is the perfect place to
contemplate the charms of nature.
加入我的下一次大旅行、
Join me on my next Grand Tour,
当我划着自己的独木舟去寻找苏格兰的精神时。
when I'll be paddling my own canoe
in search of the spirit of Scotland.