苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

of white-water swimming.
因此，你从这些急流中下来，只是在相当高的水里一遍又一遍地游泳，整天都是如此。
So you come down these rapids just
swimming in quite high water
over and over again, all day long.
这非常有趣，所以有时我和导游之后会出去玩。
It was great fun, so sometimes
me and the guides go out afterwards
并在激流中游几圈，只是为了好玩。
and just swim down the rapids
a few times just for the craic.
因此，也许你确实必须成为那种人。
So maybe you do have
to be that kind of person.
我想这也给了你一个机会去体验大自然的魅力。
I suppose it gives you
an opportunity as well to experience
the charms of nature
当你顺着河边一个比较安静的地方漂流时。是的，当然。
as you're floating down a quieter
bit of the river. Yeah, definitely.
有一个叫Church Pool的地方，你看到了。
There's a bit called
Church Pool that you see.
这往往是你看到最多鸟类的地方。嗯，嗯。
That tends to be where you see the
most amount of birds. Uh-huh.
因此，你有相当多的时间得到秃鹰。它似乎总是在同一个角落。
So you get buzzards quite
a lot of the time. It always seems
to be on the same corner.
你可以看到成对的苍鹭飞来飞去。
You get herons
flying around in pairs.
我也看到了斗鱼。斗鱼，是的。
I saw dippers as well.
Dippers, yeah.
我的一个朋友在做筏子旅行时被北斗星撞到了脸。
One of my friends got
hit in the face by a dipper
when he was doing a raft trip.
他一定是做了什么事才会这样。阴晴不定的眼睛!
He must have done something
to deserve that. Shifty eyes!
下游6英里处是曾经重要的洛吉雷特村。
Six miles downstream is the once
important village of Logierait.
多年来，洛吉瑞特一直由渡船穿过泰河提供服务。
For many years, Logierait was served
by ferries crossing the River Tay.
旅行者往往会在这里中断他们的旅程
Travellers would often
break their journey here
在向北去因弗内斯或向南去珀斯之前。
before heading north
to Inverness or south to Perth.
访问洛吉拉特的最负盛名的客人也许是维多利亚女王。
Perhaps the most prestigious
guest to visit Logierait
was Queen Victoria.
她欣赏大自然魅力的皇家之旅被打断了
Her royal tour to admire
the charms of nature was interrupted
当伟大的君主自己被迫响应自然界的召唤时。
when the great monarch herself was
forced to answer a call of nature.
被抓了个正着，帝国的人突然出现在这里，使用罗吉雷特的厕所。
Caught short, the imperial personage
popped in to use the loos of
Logierait.
历史没有记录她留下的小费是多少。
History doesn't record
what she left by way of a tip.
对女王来说，幸运的是，在洛吉雷特有制瓷设施。
Luckily for the Queen,
porcelain facilities were available
at Logierait.
但很多时候他们并不是这样、
But quite often they weren't,
而旅行者则被迫使用其他手段、
and travellers were
forced to use other means,
这往往造成不适、尴尬或两者兼而有之。
which often caused discomfort,
embarrassment or both.
感谢永远足智多谋的维多利亚人，帮助、
Thanks to the ever resourceful
Victorians, help,
或者我应该说是救济，很快就到了
or should I say relief,
was soon at hand
在这个非凡的、看起来相当令人不安的装置的形式中
in the form of this extraordinary
and rather disturbing-looking device
被称为专利的印度橡胶小便池。
known as the patent
India Rubber Urinal.
现在，早在火车上配备车载厕所之前、
Now, long before trains were
equipped with on-board loos,
这个装置被认为是解决膀胱充盈问题的办法。
this contraption was considered
to a solution to the problem
of a full bladder.
我们的想法是把它像这样绑在腰上、
The idea was to strap it
around your waist like that,
这样，它就会谨慎地挂在你的外衣下面，不显眼。
so that it would hang discretely
and invisibly beneath your outer
garments.
据发明者说、
According to the inventor,
这个装置的关键和独特的功能是阀门、
the key and unique feature
of this device was the valve,
这确保了液体在系统中的单向流动。
which ensured a one-way flow
of liquids through the system.
那么，就没有冲回。
No wash-back, then.
回到我的自行车上，我向北骑行。
Back on my bike, I pedal north.
按照布莱克建议的路线、
Following the route
suggested by Black's,
我进入风景如画的皮特洛赫里村、
I enter the picturesque village
of Pitlochry,
我沮丧地注意到，它也声称自己是苏格兰的中心。
which I note with dismay also
claims to be the centre of Scotland.
维多利亚女王使皮特洛赫里闻名于世。
Queen Victoria
made Pitlochry famous.
铁路建成后，它发展成为一个时尚的高地度假胜地。
After the railway was built,
it developed into a fashionable
Highland resort.
但是，当房♥车旅行的先驱威廉-戈登-马厩抵达时
But when the caravanning pioneer
William Gordon Stables arrived
1886年，他发现这个村子太过发达，不合他的口味。
in 1886, he found the village too
over-developed for his tastes.
"这个小城对于我这个吉普赛人的舒适想法来说几乎太文明了。
"The little town is almost too
civilised for my gypsy ideas
of comfort.
"有穿得很响的女性和男性捣蛋鬼、
"There are loudly dressed females
and male mashers,
"所以我觉得倾向于飞过去。"
"so I felt inclined to fly through."
奇怪的是，我的维多利亚时代的指南书相当敏感
Curiously, my Victorian guide book
is rather sensitive
关于它认为适当的高地服装的问题
about what it considers to be
appropriate Highland attire
并礼貌地要求游客不要过度。
and politely asks tourists
to refrain from excess.
"太明显了，我们南方的许多兄弟认为
"It is too evident that many
of our southern brethren consider
"格子是穿越高地的护照。
"the plaid a passport through
the Highlands.
"而事实上，苏格兰低地人很少被认为是
"And while it is a fact that the
Scottish Lowlander is seldom seem
"在这样的服装中，英国人太经常采用这种服装了。"
"in such a costume, the English
too frequently adopt this dress."
从证据来看，我不认为他们在带着短裙出来时有什么害羞。
From the evidence, I don't think
they were shy in coming out with
the kilt.
"英国人似乎喜欢在膝盖上旋转窑洞的纯粹的戏剧性。"
"The English seem to love the sheer
theatricality of swirling
kilts aboon their knees."
来自皮特洛赫里、布莱尔-阿索尔的花呢和格子花纹。
From the tweed and tartan
of Pitlochry, Blair Atholl
是我的下一个目的地。
is my next destination.
布莱克杂♥志♥将其描述为 "一个高地的小村庄，因其所处的野生风景而闻名"。
Described by Black's as "a Highland
hamlet noted for the wild
scenery amid which it is situated".
这是布莱尔城♥堡♥，就在布莱尔阿索尔村外。
This is Blair Castle, just outside
the village of Blair Atholl.
每年五月，布莱尔城♥堡♥的院子都会提供壮观的场地。
Every May, the grounds of
Blair Castle provide the spectacular
venue
为阿索尔集♥会♥和高地运动会、
for the Atholl Gathering
and Highland Games,
我是来见布鲁斯-罗伯的，他，除其他事项外、
'where I've come to meet Bruce Robb,
who, amongst other things,
'已经在这里折腾了好几年了。
'has been tossing the caber
here for years.'
我读到过，整个事情确实是在维多利亚时代就已经开始了。
I've read that the whole thing was
really cooked up in Victorian times
以此来给人们留下高地人的身体素质的印象、
to kind of impress people with their
physical prowess of the Highlanders,
而在这之前，根本就没有真正的高地运动会。
and before that, there wasn't really
a Highland Games at all.
是这样吗？
Is that right?
我认为这可以追溯到几百年甚至几千年前、
I think it goes back hundreds
if not thousands of years,
在那里，你有宗族竞争，看谁是最好的运动员
where you had clans competing
to see who is the best athlete
并在他们去的时候把他们作为他们最好的战士提出来
and put them forward as their best
warrior when they went
进入战斗和东西，所以我认为这可以追溯到很久很久以前。
into battle and stuff, so I think it
goes back a long, long way.
所以它是一个相当大的试验场，是吗？是的，是的，我想是的。
So it's quite a proving
ground, was it?
Yeah, yeah, I think so.
只是为了找出谁是最大、最强和最快的人
Just to find who was the biggest,
the strongest and fastest
等等，所以我认为肯定有一个历史，说它可以追溯到非常长的时间。
and so on, so I think there's
definitely a history that says
it goes back a very long way.
你参与了哪些运动？你会投掷哪些东西？
Which sports are you involved in?
Which things do you throw?
好吧，今天我将做苏格兰锤子，呃，caber、
Well, today I'll be doing
the Scots hammer, er, the caber,
重物过杆，呃，羊群，这也是你在杆上做的、
weight over the bar, er, the sheaf,
which you do over a bar as well,
和铅球，以及距离的重量。
and the shot put,
and weight for distance as well.
你很会玩纸牌吗？是的，不算太差。
Are you quite good with caber?
Yeah, not too bad.
这需要一点实践，一点诀窍，所以，是的，我不是太坏。
It takes a bit of practice, bit
of a knack, so, yeah,