苏格兰的伟大之旅（2010）

苏格兰以迷人的风景闻名于世。
Scotland is famed around the world
for stunning scenery.
而且因其有些不可预测的天气而臭名昭著。
And notorious for
its somewhat unpredictable weather.
西部高原每年有265天下雨，这不是一个值得骄傲的夸口。
It's hardly a proud boast
that it rains for 265 days a year
in the Western Highlands
或者说，夏季温度只达到平均16度。
or that the summer temperature
only ever reaches
an average of 16 degrees.
But this is an elemental country -
风、雨、雪的地方
a place where wind, rain, snow
而有时甚至是阳光也会让你感到惊讶。
and sometimes even sunshine
can take you by surprise.
在这个系列中，我冒着天气的危险，重走了一遍路线
In this series I'm braving
the weather and retracing the routes
一些早期到苏格兰的游客所拍摄的照片。
taken by some of the early
tourists to Scotland.
早在1820年，出版商就开始制♥作♥旅游指南书。
From as early as 1820 publishers
began producing tourist guide books
而布莱克的《苏格兰风景指南》是最早的一本。
and Black's Picturesque Guide
to Scotland was one of the first.
这本精彩的书在我的家族中已经有好几代人了。
A copy of this wonderful volume has
been in my family for generations.
我们去度假时，它总是放在我父亲的车里。
It was always kept in my father's
car when we went on holiday.
现在我让它的书页再次引导我
Now I'm letting
its pages guide me again
在我的六次苏格兰大旅行中。
on my six Grand Tours of Scotland.
在路上，我还会翻阅笔记和记事本
On the road, I'll also be dipping
into the notes and jottings
一些早期的旅行者，听取他们的经验。
of some early travellers
to hear about their experiences.
这一次，我正在前往苏格兰最荒凉的地区之一的途中
This time I'm on route to one
of the wildest parts of Scotland
在那里你可以找到大自然的所有元素的光辉、
where you can find nature
in all its elemental glory,
这有时意味着一天之内有四个季节。
which sometimes means
four seasons in one day.
我的第二次大旅行带我穿过西北部高地
The second of my grand tours takes
me through the north-west Highlands
并穿过苏格兰大♥陆♥的最顶端。
and across very top
of mainland Scotland.
我的旅程从托里顿这里开始
My journey starts here in Torridon
布莱克的指南书上说，它以野蛮的贫瘠而闻名。
which Black's guide book says
is famed for its savage barrenness.
这不仅是一个最疯狂的
Not only is this one of the wildest
和苏格兰最美丽的地方、
and most beautiful parts
of Scotland,
它也是最偏远的地方之一。
it's also one of the most remote.
而即使在维多利亚时代
And even in Victorian times
马匹和马车只能带你走这么远。
a horse and carriage
could only take you so far.
在那之后，就是骑着香克斯的小马了、
After that, it was a case
of a ride on shanks' pony,
在你们的肉盘上。
on your plates of meat.
换句话说，用你自己的双脚。
In other words on yer ain two feet.
维多利亚时代的人是伟大的步行者
The Victorians were great walkers
绅士们以自己为荣
and gentlemen prided themselves
他们可以徒步走多远。
on how far they
could travel of foot.
这些散步或游历被隆重地称为
These walks or peregrinations
as they were grandly called
这使眼光敏锐的旅游者不至于走弯路。
took the discerning tourist
right off the beaten track.
一位维多利亚时代的绅士对他的步行者的努力非常自豪
One Victorian gent who was very
proud of his pedestrian exertions
他是柯克贝恩的牧师托马斯-格里尔森。
was the Reverend Thomas Grierson,
Minister of Kirkbean.
现在，格里尔森是一个可怕的人
Now Grierson was a formidable man
而且是一个更可怕的步行者，徒步走了很远的距离。
and an even more formidable walker
covering enormous distances on foot.
1851年，格里尔森为步行游客写了一份指南，其中包括
In 1851 Grierson wrote a guide
for the pedestrian tourist in which
他乐于推荐他人效仿，字面意思是说
he cheerfully recommends
others to follow literally
沿着他的脚步走过苏格兰。
in his footsteps across Scotland.
"在高原上，最好的骏马是一个人自己的腿。
"The best of all steads for
the Highlands are a man's own legs.
"在任何方向都无法看到山的风景
"In no direction
can mountain scenery be viewed
"像步行一样令人满意"。
"so satisfactorily as on foot."
所以把格里尔森牧师的建议记在心里、
So taking the Reverend Grierson's
advice to heart,
我来到苏格兰的这个偏远地区
I've come to this remote part
of Scotland
在寻找一个我听说过但从未去过的地方。
in search of a place I've heard
about but have never been to.
现在这是我想去的地方。
Now this is where I want to get to.
这是湖泊中的一个小岛
It's a tiny wee island in a loch
在一个岛屿上，它本身是在一个更大的湖泊中。
on an island
which is itself in a bigger loch.
它是一种中国式的盒子的位置
It's a kind of Chinese box
of a location
和一个我一直想去的地方、
and a place I've always
wanted to visit,
但要到达那里，我必须让我的腿休息一下，然后坐船。
but to get there I'm going to have
to rest my legs and take a boat.
这里是马瑞湖、
This is Loch Maree,
它经常被称为高地最美丽的地方。
which is often referred to as
the most beautiful in the Highlands.
我正前往湖中♥央♥的一个岛屿
I'm heading for an island
in the middle of the loch
称为Eilean Subhainn、
called Eilean Subhainn,
但正如大多数来到苏格兰的游客所发现的那样、
but as most visitors
to Scotland have found,
你必须始终关注天气情况。
you've always got to keep
one eye on the weather.
嗯，风越来越大了
Well, the wind's picking up
和往常一样，地平线上有一片黑云、
and there's a black cloud
on the horizon, as usual,
所以我需要加点速度
so I'll need to put some speed on
并在天气变得更糟之前在我的岛上登陆。
and make a landing on my island
before the weather gets any worse.
正如我的《布莱克指南》建议的那样......
As my Black's Guide Book advises...
"苏格兰的气候是极其多变的。
"The climate of Scotland
is extremely variable.
"东风和北风的感觉很严重
"East and North Eat winds
are felt severely
"在春季和初夏期间"。
"during spring and early summer."
它继续警告旅行者，...
And it goes on to warn
the traveller of...
"强降雨，特别是在西部。"
"Heavy rainfall,
especially in the west."
现在，这些岛屿确实令人惊叹，因为在这里你会发现
Now, these islands are truly amazing
because here you'll find
在英国的任何地方，都有一些受干扰最少的自然环境、
some of the least disturbed natural
environments anywhere in Britain,
这正是他们的重要性所在，只需倾听。
which is what makes them
so important and just listen.
鸟之歌♥
BIRDSONG
自然的声音。元素的声音。
The sound of nature.
The sound of the elements.
这是一个不受干扰的野生动物天堂
This is an undisturbed haven
for wildlife
和马雷湖岛屿都受到保护
and the Loch Maree islands
are protected
由苏格兰自然遗产组织指定，该组织已将其定为
by Scottish Natural Heritage,
who have designated it
一个国家自然保护区。
a national nature reserve.
这里的树木是曾经广泛的喀里多尼亚松树林的珍贵遗留物。
The trees here are precious remnants
of the once extensive
Caledonian pine forest
在古代覆盖了高地的大部分地区。
that covered much of the Highlands
in ancient times.
当然，不可避免的是，这就是雨上。
Inevitably, of course,
that's the rain on.
事实上，它看起来将是整天都在进行的。
In fact it looks like it's
going to be on and off all day.
但你期望什么呢？
But what do you expect?
这里毕竟是西高地。
This is the West Highlands
after all.
但还是很美。
But beautiful nonetheless.
沿着树下的鹿迹走去、
Following the deer track
beneath the trees,
我在一个感觉古老而未变的风景中前进、
I make my way through a landscape
that feels ancient and unchanged,
几乎没有经过人工处理。
almost untouched by human hand.
现在我已经到了湖边，在Eilean Subhainn上。
Now I've reached the loch
and on Eilean Subhainn
而这就是我的岛屿目的地。
and that is my island destination.
但显然为了到达那里，我将冒着被淋湿甚至更湿的风险。
But obviously to get there I'm going
to risk getting wet or even wetter.
现在的问题是...
Now the question is...
...我是脱掉靴子还是只用速度作为防御？
..whether I take my boots off