最后的阿拉斯加（2015）

北极地区野生动物保护区是美国最大的受保护荒野
1980 年，美国政♥府♥禁止在保护区进行新的人类占领
只剩下七张木屋许可证
这些没有多少脂肪，很瘦
Not much fat on these, pretty skinny.
再过一个月，他们就会长胖
Another month from now, they'll be rolling in fat.
但现在，他们很瘦
But right now, they're pretty skinny.
我一生中做过的最好的举动就是搬到这里
The best move I ever made in my life was to move up here
并在这里养家糊口
and to raise a family here.
当我年轻的时候在威斯康星州，
When I was young and in Wisconsin,
我喝酒
I drank.
我抽烟，当时
and then I smoked back then.
如果我还住在那里，我现在可能已经死了
If I'd still been living there, I'd probably be dead by now.
我会心脏病发作，超重和饮酒
I'd have a heart attack, overweight and drinking.
这让我保持--
This out here keeps my mind --
我的头脑敏锐，保持清晰和敏锐，
my mind sharp, keeps it clear and sharp,
让我开心
and keeps me happy.
北极保护区大致等同于
The arctic refuge is roughly the size
南卡罗来纳州的面♥积♥
of the state of South Carolina.
你走了数百、数千英里
You go for hundreds, thousands of miles
没有道路--什么都没有
without roads -- nothing.
我们的许可证只会到期
Our permits only go up
直到我们最后一个孩子死去
until the death of our last child.
100年内，将没有人
Within 100 years, there's gonna be nobody.
我们是最后一个
We are the last.
我降落在这里的第一个秋天，
The first fall I landed here,
我在小溪口发现了这个半岛
I found this peninsula on the mouth of a creek.
我开始建造木屋
I started building a cabin.
我已经在这里住了 40 年
and I've lived here 40 years.
这是我的家
This is my home.
新木屋代表着这个家庭的未来
New cabin represents the family's future here.
不过是树...
But it's the trees...
是水，
It's the water,
那是我们狩猎的地方，
that's where we hunt,
得到我们的木材
get our wood from.
这就是家
and that's all home.
只有土地本身就是家
I mean, just the land itself is home.
看看--看看妈妈在做什么
Look at -- look at what mommy's doing.
如果你做对了，你可以--
If you do it right, you can s--
坐在那里，你吹它，它会旋转
sit there and you blow it and it'll spin around.
它会变成一个圆形
and it'll make a round shape.
-像这样？ -是的 吹它
-Like this? -Yeah. Blow on it.
看？
See?
哦，那里 你去吧
Oh, there. There you go.
上次，科林和 Rhonda 在这里，
Last time, uh, Coleen and Rhonda were here,
我想那是三年前的事了
I think it was three years ago.
让女孩们来这里对我来说真的很特别
To have the girls out here is really special to me.
你应该出去
You know what? You should go out
今天采摘浆果，鲑鱼，
and pick the berries today, salmonberries,
因为只有一个非常短的时期
'cause there's only a ve sryhort period
浆果在哪里--成熟了
where the berries are -- are ripe.
科林，你--你知道什么是大树莓吗？
Coleen, you -- you know what salmonberries are?
它们是鲑鱼，它们与浆果混合
They're salmon, and they're mixed with berries.
-不 -不
-No. -no.
它看起来像，鱼蛋，鲑鱼蛋
It looks like, uh, fish eggs, salmon eggs.
奶奶用它做了很好的果酱
Grandma makes really good jam with it.
所以我们应该去--我们应该去看看
So we should go -- we should go and see
如果我们今天能得到一些，好吗？
If we can get some today, okay?
我现在要开始上木屋了
I'm gonna start on the cabin now.
回去工作 回去磨砺
Back to work. Back to the grind.
我想完成这件事
I want to get this done.
我厌倦了建造木屋
I'm sick of building cabins.
我想这是第 14 号♥木屋
I think this is cabin number 14 soromething.
我真的很希望
I'm really hoping
这是我建造的最后一个木屋
that this is the last cabin that I build.
这称为用刮刀剥原木
This is called peeling logs with a drawknife.
这些是白云杉树
These are white spruce trees.
而且，你在河边找到它们
and, uh, you find them along the river.
哦，我希望它脱落--都像那样脱落
Oh, I wish it come off -- all come off like that.
而你这样做的原因，它使圆木更轻
and the reason you do that, it makes the log lighter
两种方面，颜色更浅，重量更轻
by both ways, lighter in color and lighter by weight.
这些是非常坚硬的植物
These are pretty darn tough plants.
如果你看看这里的年轮，你可以...
If you look at the rings here, you can...
你看年轮，它们有多紧？
You see the rings, how -- how tight they are?
所以大概从这里到这里已经有100年的树龄了
So probably from here to here is 100 years old.
所以这差不多有300年的历史了，
So this is almost 300 years old,
这棵树，
this tree, you know.
而且，这是一个--漫长的冬天
and, uh, it's a -- a long winter.
还有永久冻土
and there's permafrost.
所以树长得不如--
So it doesn't grow as good as the tree
在较低纬度的48州好，
down in the lower 48, you know,
那样的地方，很热
a place like that, that's hot.
那只是，大自然的一部分，
That's just part of, uh, nature up here, you know.
这里更严酷，这就是他们在这里的原因
I mean, to be tough, that's why they're here.
如果他们无法应对这种环境，
If they couldn't handle this type of environment,
他们不会在这里
they wouldn't be here.
必须把这个木屋弄好
Got to get this cabin done.
冬天很快就到了，
Winter's coming pretty soon,
并且--它不会等我完成
and -- and it ain't gonna wait for me to get done.
当它准备好时它就会来
You know, it's just gonna come when it's ready to come.
一二三四
One, two, three, four.
我的计划是两周，至少有屋顶，
My plan is two weeks, have at least the roof,
最低限度是屋顶和门洞
you know, the minimum would be the roof and the door cutout.
我们很快就要开始建设了，
We got to start building soon,
就像，很快
like, very soon.
我们昨晚到了这里
We got here last night.
这是一个地方
This is a place
我希望这艘船能过冬
I was hoping to get to to winter this boat.
它甚至比我记忆中的还要好
It's even better than I remembered it.
我们在这里
We're here.
这是她要过冬的地方
This is where she's gonna spend the winter.
这是一次漫长的旅行
It's a long trip.
我们覆盖了 1000 英里的河流
We covered, like, 1,000 river miles.
我们最终成功了
and we ended up making it.
所以我们在这里
So here we are.
“美国制♥造♥”是冬天睡觉
American made is to bed for the winter.
她很安全
She's safe.
谢谢，“美国制♥造♥”
Thank you, American made.
你让我们在这里安然无恙
You got us here safe and sound.
而她--她做到了，嗯，她天生要做的事
and she -- she did, um, what she was built to do.
-好的 -你准备好了吗？
-All right. -Are you ready?
是的，我们走吧
Yeah, let's go.
-到时候那里见 -好的
-See you there. -All right.
所以我们要去木屋
So we're going to the cabin.
而且，爸爸正在把独木舟装满货物
and, uh, daddy's down lining the canoe up with the load.
木屋在我们上方大约一英里处
The cabin's up about a mile up above us.
我们会爬上去然后，
We'll get up there and then, you know,
看看木屋是什么样子
see what the cabin looks like.
承受伤害，我只是担心他们--
Bear damage, I'm just worried they --
他们喜欢把屋顶剥下来
they like to peel the roof back.
我们的，这是一个低矮的屋顶 他们可以爬上去
Ours, it's a low roof. they can get up on top.
他们喜欢把它剥下来，然后从屋顶进去
and they like to peel it back and get in through the roof.
这就是我担心的
That's what I'm worried about.
这个地方对我来说意义重大，因为，
This place does mean a lot to me 'cause, I mean,
我们在这一片土地的木屋里待了几年
we spent several years at the cabin on a little block.
这是我第一次来到的木屋
This is the cabin that I first came out to
并学会了在丛林中的生活方式
and learned the ways of living in the bush.
它是我们生活的基石
and it's a building block of our life.
汗水、鲜血和泪水，
Sweat, blood and tears, I mean,
雷和我把它变成了一个家
Ray and I put in to make it a home.
我们在这里度过了 10 年
and we spent, what, 10 years out here.
这是我父母的第一间木屋
I mean, this was my parents' first cabin
在树林里